John Coffey

You're prepping for an event and having a debate on whether the transmission can be used? Pull it and replace it with a known good unit.

Floyd Link also worked with Ed Pink and Nissan in their VRH Indy race engine program.

Throw away that header. Get a Nissan Motorsports or Stahl with 1 5/8" primaries. Upgrade the exhaust to 2.5". A cam with more duration (around 270) will also help.

The Nissan Motorsports gasket worked extremely well in my years of racing. Its the one that has "Garlock" printed on it. Probably NLA. Next best is the OEM Nissan part and Permatex Ultra Copper helps a lot. Back in 1998 a group of racers ponied up and had a run of copper gaskets water jet cut. I had one and it work perfectly and was completely reusable. It went with a race engine I sold in 2004.

I'm shocked, shocked to hear that someone lied about a used car they were selling.

I've build a half-a-dozen rotisseries. This is the latest one for the Peking to Paris 240Z. It now has a 1966 911 on it. Two bars connecting the front and back make it more sturdy for transport via trailer or flat bed. You MUST ( as mentioned above) connect the front and back ends of the rotisserie or they ends can spread and the car can fall off.

There are no structures in the USDM cars but there might be support structures in the factory rally and competition cars. If you look under the interior trim at the C-pillar you'll find 4 threaded mounts for the factory racing roll bar. There are other structures in the basic chassis that are intended only for competition use and were built in on the assembly line.

Jack point or a locating point for the manufacturing process.

It doesn't matter. The bar ends will only touch the strut tube if both wheels got to full droop. 99% of the time that will only happen when you jack up the front of the car. It doesnt matter. Move on to more important thinks.

Look at the e-brake linkage above the driveshaft. If you see shiny spots then the front diff mount and diff strap are gone and the driveshaft is hitting the e-brake parts and the tunnel.

Sounds like a Comp box to me. although one that is not very desirable. Most racers want a direct drive 5th with the middle three gears much closer together. I might have a customer for it - we are building an endurance rally car for them.

Swepco 201 is the gold juice in the Porsche world for the 901 and 915 transmissions. In short order it ruined the synchros in my Nissan 4 speed after a day of racing at PIR.

Of course there's always this option - John Jeffries brought it to my attention. http://www.eliteracingtransmissions.com/products/datsun-240z-dog-gear-kit/

You might as well take it apart and measure everything. The gearing is what make a transmission a Competition box. Synchros are secondary. As mentioned there are steel Warner and Servo style synchros and I'm not smart enough to tell the difference without them in my hands. If they are the servo style then Porsche parts are readily available at Porsche prices. If you don't want to do the rebuild I can get the guys at Rancho to do it if it has the servo style. They do all our 741, 901, 915, and G50 boxes for us.

You should see less then 5% on each cylinder.

Drill it from the back side, not from inside the cup. Use a small bit to create a starter hole. Use lube. Go slow. You don't need to drill it oversize because the threaded rod pivots at the slave cylinder.

Just drill a hole in your existing clutch fork.

I ran the Toyo RA1s on my daily driver Contour SVT for 18,000 miles. Never an issue on the street, track, or autocross. On a S30 that weighs 700 pounds less they should last longer.

The car had VTec - Yo!

You have aftermarket ball and socket TC rod mounts on the car. Check them to make sure they are not worn or loose.

Not excessive at all.

An open two pinion R180 can't handle much torque and will self destruct if you do a lot of one wheel burnouts. A R180 with a four pinion carrier, or a good LSD (Quaife, OS Giken, Nissan Motorsports, etc.) can handle about 275 ft. lbs. if you run a synthetic fluid like Redline 75W-140 and change it often.

Instead of a 5 point harness, get the Schroth Profi II ASM. Its a DOT approved four point that has the ASM clip that prevents submarining. Add the roll bar and a comfortable seat with built in should harness holes (the Cobra Daytona is a good one with a reclining mechanism) you've improved safety a bunch.

There's also Diamond Racing wheels. We put 15 x 6 Diamonds on the P2P 240Z. https://www.facebook.com/p2p240z/?fref=ts

The only way to possibly ensure your privacy on the Internet is to never go on the Internet. No Facebook, no email, no browsers, etc. Otherwise, assume its all out there for everyone to see.