John Coffey

The additional heat insulation provided by caliper paint is probably not measurable. I've noticed no difference with an IR heat gun shooting painted, bare metal, or rusty 204Z front calipers - although I wasn't specifically testing for that. With controlled testing you might be able to show a difference but, IMHO, its not significant. On a race track the front calipers got so hot that most paint just cooks away (I've seen 800 degrees after a 1 hour track stint during an eduro). Same is true with the rear aluminum drums if the brakes are adjusted properly. For a street driven car its not an issue.

Did they call 911 when they found him?

Your "mechanic" needs to buy this book and read it: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Fuel-Injection-Engine-Management/dp/0837603005/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333303237&sr=8-1

The N42 cylinder bores will stay rounder and have a very slightly better seal then the F54 until you get over 400hp. Then the F54 does very slightly better. But Leon's right, pick the block that's in the best shape and that's not necessarily the block with the fewest miles on it.

Adam Carolla.

Probably for a removal tool. I just punch those out and drill a 1" OD hole, same as the opposite hole that I enlarge to 1". Makes adjustment a lot easier.

The entire used car market is going up. Same is true for use motorcycles.

I missed the c10/510 connection. Jon's right.

I'm pretty sure the angle of the spindle in relation to the center line of the strut tube is the same on all year S30s. The 280Z spindles are longer which moves the hub out a bit but the bearing spacing is the same. That may be why it appears the spindles are at different angles.

I just run the -10 oil cooler hoses through the front unibody ducting. Cleans up the engine compartment nicely.

Any handling differences you might find between the two will have far, far more to do with the current condition of the cars then any inherent manufacturing differences.

The market for S30 stuff is tiny and its not growing. There's maybe 10 guys that make parts for these cars and every single one of those 10 guys have to do something else to feed their families. Me, I do welding and fabrication on all kinds of race cars in addition to making a few parts for the S30. I've noticed a lot more impatience from customers and attribute it to the additional stresses on people's lives from the economy. Chill out folks. The good guys in this market will get your parts to you. It might not be exactly on your schedule but the parts will arrive.

Edan's parts are not overpriced. He sells good quality parts in low volumes, that means his parts will be more expensive then similar parts for a Honda or Camaro. Unfortunately the market for S30 parts is tiny so the production volumes are not high enough to drive costs down. And if you're thinking about using washers to space the brake rotor away from he hub, you're a fool - and soon to be dead fool.

That's a strange looking fracture. Almost looks crystallized in the center. Not like anything I've seen before although it does look like its had a crack for a while.

BTW... TC rods with urethane bushings or solid rod ends DO increase ride and NVH harshness. By not letting the wheel move back just a bit when a bump is hit adds a lot to the harshness of the ride. All modern cars have some amount of rearward compliance built into the front suspension.

I agree that the longitudinal loads with a locked wheel hitting a pothole will be high. But we're talking about a rolling wheel here. I also agree that a 4" deep pothole will put more longitudinal load into the car then a 1" deep pothole. But again, if we are setting up the car for 4" deep potholes then we need to look at what the rally folks do. If you're consistently hitting 4" deep potholes with locked wheels then it doesn't matter what TC rod setup you've installed, you're going to **** your car up. I can come up with extreme examples to support pretty much any point I want to make.

FIA curbs are pretty big bumps and I used to run over four or five every lap at Buttonwillow - more at Streets and Sears Point. Even had special valving in the Penskes to allow the suspension to compress quickly at high shaft speeds. Ran stock TC rods with the Aluminum/Delrin bushings. Never broke one.

Remember, the tire is rolling and will roll over the bump (unless its a curb) and that act of rolling moves the tire up and compresses the spring. That's where the majority of the load goes. What other force is causing the spring to compress? BTW... Rubber TC rod bushings are better for a street car. By letting the tire move backwards just a bit, the tire can more easily move up and transfer the impact load to the spring.

You guys do not understand the loads that go in through the TC rod. The rod does not take 100% of the loads from the suspension hitting a bump. That is taken by the spring. The TC rod just locates the LCA and handles part of braking loads.

Not true. Rod ends, spherical bearings, and/or heim joints are designed to directly pass through all loads. Except for the thin Teflon or Kevlar liner, they are an all metal connection.

For autocross its SA2005 or M2005.

Sounds like the cause to me. They are about 1/2" thick and you might be able to search McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com) and find a poly washer that will work.

FYI... nice cage.

But be aware of NASA's inspection rule. If they cannot inspect all around the welded joints, they will fail the cage. In NASA NorCal they use small mirrors and a bore scope to do the inspection. 15.6.20 Inspection A 3/16-inch inspection hole must be drilled in each of the required bars in a non-critical area for the purpose of determining wall thickness. All welds, except those mounted to plates on the floor, must be accessible for inspection (360 degrees).

The 360 degree weld does not have to be a complete circle around the tube/mount junction. For those bars that are tight up against the rocker panel the weld can extend up the bar welding it to the rocker panel, over the top of rocker panel or where there's enough gap, and back down to the plate again connecting the bar to the rocker panel. You can also get a small, flexible nozzle MIG or a small TIG torch in some surprisingly tight places.