John Coffey

The S30 already has "coil overs." Its basic strut/coil spring design is a coil over suspension. You basically want to swap the 4" OD factory springs for 2.5" OD aftermarket springs and add an adjustable lower spring perch.

Air hammer with a flat tip. Hammer in the counter clockwise (loosening) direction and be careful not to mess up the strut tube or the threads.

All IMHO... And that pressure bearing test is also a BS test, at least for automotive oils - the FTC nailed them on that too. Its more appropriate for GL5 grease, not for an oiling situation where oil is continually supplied under pressure. They just play on the ignorance of how engine oiling systems are designed to work. And that "90% of engine wear occurs at start-up" claim is also BS, but for a different reason. Its not due to a lack of oil, its due to a lack of heat. Combustion by products (mostly acids) collect in the upper cylinder area until the engine temps gets beyond the acid's dew point. Once that happens the oil can wash the acids down into the crankcase. Its not due to lack of oil, its due to acidic vapors that the oil can't do anything about until the vapors condense. Again, they play on ignorance.

Marty, The ad in question was either a Slick 50 or DuraLube ad. Both were banned by the FTC for being false and misleading. Go to the FTC web site and check these links regarding SLick50, DuraLube, ProLong, ZMAx, MotorUp, and others. http://ftcsearch.ftc.gov/search?q=slick+50&btnG=Search&entqr=0&ud=1&output=xml_no_dtd&sort=date%3AD%3AL%3Ad1&oe=UTF-8&ie=UTF-8&client=ftc_consumer&proxystylesheet=ftc_consumer&filter=0&site=default_collection http://ftcsearch.ftc.gov/search?q=duralube&btnG=Search&entqr=0&entsp=a&sort=date%3AD%3AL%3Ad1&output=xml_no_dtd&lr=lang_en|lang_es&client=ftc_consumer&ud=1&oe=UTF-8&ie=UTF-8&proxystylesheet=ftc_consumer&filter=0&site=default_collection IMHO, oil additives are BS. FTC kinda feels that way too.

Oil technology has progressed significantly since 1970. Any SG or higher rated oil is fine.

Pretty much ideal for a street car.

Margin of victory was .516 and it all came down to a miracle 2nd run by Toby yesterday. Toby's wife Beverlee also won FPL.

After a few years of trying, a BMW is now the FP National Champ!

"Your posts were deleted due to your advice being to falsify information to the DMV. " No, what I said was to tell the DMV that he paid $100 for the car and has a bill of sale. I don't know what he paid for the car so I just put $100. Again, that is the truth (as least from what I've read in this thread). He is under no legal or moral obligation to tell the DMV all he's determined in his research and, based on my experience, it is completely against his best interest to divulge all that he's learned.

I think people are assuming that its your duty to do all of the title research and present that to the DMV. Its not. Its perfectly legal in all 50 states to purchase a car via a Bill or Sale and then go to the DMV and have them do the title research and help you obtain a clear title to the car. You're not doing anything illegal or shady. How people screw up is by involving previous owners, potential lien holders, etc. in the process that is essentially between you and the DMV. By bringing all of this information to the attention of the DMV, or even worse, having those third parties bring it to the attention of the DMV, the bureaucracy now has to act upon it. At a minimum you will pay all the fines, fees, and penalties that those other folks have avoided. Tell the DMV the truth, you bought the car for x dollars and the seller gave you a bill of sale. Don't volunteer any more information.

I'm probably the only person in this thread who has, at least ten times, legally titled S30s that were missing titles, had shady pasts, or got legal title through lien sales. And my posts get deleted. The only other person I know who has done this more times, successfully and legally, is Tony D. And my posts are the ones that get deleted... Funny.

There is nothing wrong with the oil pressure readings you are seeing. Its absolutely normal and is nothing to worry about. You don't need to do anything at all except stop worrying.

Did the weather get cooler where you live?

Any oil will do.

Buy or download the rule book for the club you plan to autocross with. Read it carefully before making any modifications to your Z. If you're just starting out, as you mention, do NOT spend any moeny or your car making it faster. Spend ALL your money on making the car safe and reliable and then spend the rest on seat time. Wait at least a year after you start autocrossing before making any performance changes to the car. This is the best advice I can give and I make my living building and modifying race cars.

Some people modify for style (the motorsports lifestyle), others for performance.

Cutting coils is no big deal but I agree that the stock springs are too soft to do much cutting with. One coil at most and you still might have a problem bottoming out.

Too big an exhaust pipe (not header primaries or the secondary "Y" on 6-2 headers) will not hurt performance. It will also most likely not help performance. Mainly it increases cost and reduces ground clearance.

I was disagreeing with the statement that having a return line was safer then not having a return line. My comment was not directed at Nissan's original design.

There's really a lot of mis-information in this thread. Probably should be deleted.

Really? Adding a second fuel line running the length of the chassis with all its potential leak points and places for to fail in a wreck is safer?

Huh? Do you want a list of modern cars that dead head the fuel system? Mazda RX8, Nissan 350Z, Audi S4,... Lots and lots of carb cars run a dead headed fuel system with an electric fuel pump.

Plastigauge is an approximate bearing clearance measuring tool. Your clearances might be just fine. Pull the crank and do a proper measurement.

Engine vacuum is not a good indicator of engine efficiency. Air fuel ratio is a much better indicator - to a point. Generally the biggest factor is the driver. From BMW's eta engine studies in the late 1970s/early 1980s large throttle openings at low rpm are the most efficient way to accelerate. Shift early and get into top gear as quickly as possible. I experimented with this technique, never running the engine past 2,750 rpm in any of the lower gears, and saw a 8% increase in fuel mileage for around town driving in my street 2.4L 240Z. Then I stopped because I couldn't stand to drive the car that way. Assuming you ahve more patience then me... tuning your car for that kind of use requires an emphasis on low rpm torque. As much compression ratio as possible and as much timing advance early in the curve as possible without low rpm detonation. Stock cams and smaller intake valves. Gearing also need to be high (the OEM 3.36 gears are good).

EI, like the Pertronix Igniter 2 and Crane XR3000 have big advantages over points: Low ohm coil (.5) for more voltage, varying dwell, rpm limiting, timing retard, etc. The only reason to keep points is for originality or budgetary reasons. Bosch Platinum plugs don't work well with a stock or semi-stock L6 ignition system. Stick with the NGKs or Champions.