John Coffey

I think the car is fine. The purists scoff but those kinds of people are never happy. They find a decal wrong on on your car and they accuse you of being some kind of ax murder.

Fantasy: 1. Limited Slip Diff. 2. Shocks. 3. Tires. 4. Bushings. 5. Springs. 6. Anti-roll bars. 7. Seats. 8. Steering wheel. 9. 4 point harness. 10. Exhaust. Reality: 1. Rust repair. 2. Bushings. 3. Ball joints. 4. Tie rod ends. 5. Wheel bearings. 6. Engine, trans, and diff mounts. 7. Rebuild steering rack. 8. Shocks. 9. Window, door, and interior seals. 10. Complete engine tune up.

Soak it with some kind of penetrant. Heat the tube, not the nut. Hit the nut with a blast of Freon. Air chisel/hammer in the loosening direction. Repeat.

Steering knuckles are right and left. LCA bushings are installed with the thick part behind the LCA. Brake calipers are towards the rear of the car.

Yes...

1 1/2 times the diameter of the threaded end. You will probably have to dial back the camber to get that. In general its better from a suspension geometry standpoint to get camber from adjusting the upper strut mount via camber plates or slotting the strut towers. Pushing the LCAs out to get camber works and you do have to run a lot of scrub to get the Z to handle, but less scrub is better.

Actually, those are Nissan Motorsports USA (not Nismo) headers. They are available with 1 5/8" and 1 3/4" primaries and only for square port heads. The price they quote is racer net and I think the gasket listed is NLA.

How are we supposed to diagnose a slight vibration issue across the Internet?

Most likely they had an IT guy that convinced management that a Web site would make them some money. He built the original site and it didn't bring in enough money to pay for itself and the development costs. He then convinced them that all it needed was an update. They spent more money on that and the IT guy quit (or was fired for watching porn) before implementation. So now management wants nothing to do with the "Web", shouts down anyone who talked about the "Web", and now focuses their time and energy on stuff that actually makes money and keeps the company alive during this recession.

I've corner weighed a stock LHD 1971 240Z and the right front is heavier then the left front with a driver and passenger in place (actually 125 lb. sand bags). Removing the battery balanced the front weights.

Tabco generally sell less then 1% of their products retail. The vast majority of their sales are to companies like MSA, BD, CPD, etc. which send in purchase orders by mail or e-mail. Tell me again why they should spend hours updating a sales channel that is less then 1% of their gross? IMHO, they should just delete it and have a page with their phone number and contact info.

Throttle dashpots are evil things. Throw them away, properly tune your car, and enjoy an engine that moves up AND down the rpm range like it should.

:-) http://www.abbottball.com/materials/titanium-balls.php

Side mounts. Its a pain in the arse to install bottom mount seats.

1. Take a cutoff wheel and cut the stud flush with the subframe. 2. Center punch the exact center of the stud. 3. Using a left hand 3/8" drill bit drill out the stud using a lot of thread cutting oil. 4. Once the stud is drilled out get a 10mm x 1.25p nut and measure the OD at the points. 5. Get a drill bit or a Unibit that exact size and enlarge the 4 holes in the subframe. 6. Clean up the surface of the subframe around those holes. 7. Weld 4 of M10 x 1.25p nuts to M12 washers. 8. Push the nut side of the washer/nut combo into the holes you drilled in the subframe. 9. Weld the edge of the washers to the subframe. 10. Grind flat and paint.

As I said, twice pipes are a style/sound thing. From a performance standpoint they are not as good as a well deisgned single exhaust. Same is true for most V engine installs. A well designed single exhaust will develop more power and torque then a dual exhaust because you have more waves to tune with. Unfortunately, packaging considerations with a V engine make a well designed single exhaust extremely difficult and generally not worth the labor costs vs. the power improvements.

Millboard 1/8" thick. http://www.mcmaster.com/#9362k11/=cgp8pj Paint it with Stainless paint to seal it inside and out - 7721T37 at the same McMaster site.

Just tap the hole for a barbed fitting and run a hose with a loop in it.

There's no advantage to a dual spring setup on a street driven car. Its basically a marketing gimmick. In the racing world dual spring setups are used primarily for aero dependent ride height and pitch control.

BTW... there's nothing special about the Nissan L6 when it comes to timing and the advance curve. I'm just experimenting and its most likely that I will end up with a linear advance curve that's remarkably similar to the advance curve for a Porsche 4 or 6 cylinder, BMW 6 cylinder, the stock Nissan L6, or most any other automotive IC engine's advance curve.

Electronic (XR3000) and I'm also working with Pertronix to have them build an Igniter2 for the Datsun distributor.

Remember that the factory non-emissions static timing number is 17 degrees BTDC at the crank. A "typical" 240Z distributor will get you an additional 21 degrees of advance at the crank for a total of 38 degrees by 3,500 to 3,700 rpm. That was all designed for leaded fuel. Realistically on today's pump fuel you're lucky if you can get by with 32 degrees total at 3,500 to 3,700. That brings the static number back down to 10 or 11 degrees BTDC assuming the same advance curve. All of the above is without vacuum advance. I'm actually in the process of rebuilding and recurring a 240Z distributor as part of a little project. I'm going to try a build a digressive curve (more in earlier - starting at 1,500) and get 24 to 26 degrees of advance by 3,500 rpm (plus whatever static). So if you start with 5 static you'll get 31 total and if you start with 10 static you'll get 36 total. Luckily the Porsche shop across the alley from mine has an Allen Synchrometer distributor dyno. :-) EDIT: When I mean "typical" 240Z distributor, I mean ones that are 40 years old. I've tested a half a dozen and the actual advance curve is different then what's plotted in the FSM due to age, wear, gunk, etc. If you got to the trouble of tearing it apart, cleaning, media blasting, lube, etc. you might be able to get back to what the FSM says.

SUs work better with a less static advance then a set of Webers. Maybe 10 to 12 static then ramping up to 20 at 2000 and 36 by 3500. That faster you can ramp up the curver the better mid range response you'll get, if your fuel can handle it. IMHO, throw away the vacuum advance if you drive in a spirited way.

duplicate

1975 model year and earlier cars are exempt from smog testing (under BAR regulations) but not exempt from compliance with all applicable smog laws under the California Motor Vehicle Code (27156). Here's what happens: 1. You get pulled over for some reason. 2. Officer asks you to open the hood. 3. Officer sees something wrong or you refuse to open the hood. 4. Officer cites under 27156. 5. 27156 says its a violation of the law to operate the vehicle (except to get it home or to a repair facility) until proof of correction is provided to the court. 6. The courts currently only accept proof of correction from a BAR certified smog referee (not a smog station or a smog tech). http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90059-more-california-smog-info