John Coffey

A three two barrel card setup (Webers, Mikunis, Solexs, SKs, OERs) is what's typically run. A few folks have built a six carb setup using motorcycle flat slide Mikunis. Triple SUs have the problems mentioned in Marc's article and are probably not worth the time or efforts given the known and proven benefits of the triple two barrel side drafts.

BTW... this is that same GTS-R Viper (before its GrandAm debut) racing Don Vesco's Turbinator for the old Discovery Extreme Machines TV show. I did get a ride in it at over 200mph when they were filming this sequence at El Mirage. Its could spin its rear wheels at that speed.

This Grand Am GTO GTS-R Viper. No speedometer but at Willow Springs we were probably over 180mph in turn 8. Lap times were in the 1:14-15 range. To give you an idea, ITS 240Zs run WSIR around 1;32s.

The 260Z 2+2 and 280Z rear control arms are stronger. A couple rally teams in the UK that run the Safari use sets of 280Z rear LCAs that I send them periodically. They were breaking the 240Z parts. I ran the 280Z arms on my racing 240Z that made 325 hp and ran 275 width Hoosiers. Never had a problem.

And/or rpm. Stock for stock the L24 will spin to a higher rpm then the 2.8 and SCCA ITS builds (stock internals) consistently show the 2.4L making more horsepower then the 2.8L. None of this matters for a street car. I just posted to show that the Internet Rule of Thumb isn't always right. :-)

Stop listening to your friend when it comes to car stuff.

You can easily sell that 4.62 ring and pinion to 240Z and 510 racers for about $300.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/88025-installing-tokico-280z-hp-springs-in-a-240z/

Tokico does.

Blame Eibach. They try to get by with as few part numbers as possible (especially for such a low volume seller as the S30 chassis).

For a while Showcars was stealing pictures of the hoods and hatches I sell off my web site and posting it on his own. A letter from my attorney stopped that.

Why? Bleeding the brakes is pretty simple.

Wurth High Zinc weld through primer.

Unless you have some documentation to prove the 10K mile claim, its just a nice clean 1972 240Z with a salvage title. The new owner might not care about the salvage title but his/her insurance company would. My guess is that its a $7K to $9K car depending on how obvious the repairs are. EDIT: I upped my estimate a bit.

Are you taking about the nut on top of the shock? If so... If the nut is turning and shock shaft is not, then the nut or the shock shaft is stripped. You can try applying an upward force on the insulator to see if that will help pull the nut off the shock shaft while loosening the nut. If that doesn't work you can use a chisel to cut the nut in half. If the nut and the shock shaft are both turning you should use a strap wrench wrapped around the shock shaft to keep it from turning as you loosen the nut. Soak the nut in some penetrant before trying to remove it.

The seller doesn't know jack about the S30.

$7 cheaper then I sell it. Call and ask them what size gland nuts are included. :-)

http://www.hybridz.org

Rebound issues are generally felt on corner entry and mid-corner. The car turns in well but "falls" over on the outside front shock, doesn't take a set, and then understeers. On corner exit you should see more weight transfer to the rear and understeer. Your shock may be fine, there are exceptions to every rule, but keep an eye on it. It may not leak any oil and still have problems with the rebound valving. What setting do you run the front shocks at?

I didn't say your car or its performance was junk. If your front shocks are Tokico Illuminas (BZ3099 - typical shortened 240Z fronts) then Tokico's engineers and my own personal experience says the rebound valving is gone with springs rates of 350 lb. in. There may be a different Tokico shock in there that have the correct rebound valving for the spring rate. The only two Tokico shock inserts that I'm aware of that can handle those spring rates are the HTS102F and HTS112F.

The point of the distance piece (spacer) and washers are to end up with end play and rotational torque with the specs listed in the FSM. Generally the spacer goes with the hub so in the 280Z, MM stub axles installs I've done in 240Z hubs, I assemble with the 240Z spacer and no washers and then torque to 175 ft. lbs. I then measure end play and turning torque. If they are within spec then I'm done. If the end play is out of spec, I increase torque in 10 lb. increments until the end play is within spec or I reach the max torque number listed in the FSM. If I reach the max torque spec I go with the next shorter distance piece and try again. I've had to do this only once in the last 8 years If the turning torque is too high I disassemble and add one new copper washer between the inner bearing and the spacer. Then re-torque to 175 ft. lbs. and check again. I've never had to add more then one washer and that is only needed in about 20% of the assemblies I've done.

OK... you don't have a live axle, you have a welded diff. Live Axle is what's under 1970s Chevy pickup trucks. You front Tokico shocks (unless they are HTS shocks) are junk by now with those spring rates. Shoot for a constant 200 degree coolant temp on the track. Oil temps should be around 230 to 250 with synthetics. If you don't already have an oil cooler, put one on immediately. Stick with the R180 diff and run a real limited slip unit. Add a diff cooler if you're running sessions over 1/2 hour. For anything over an hour you'll probably need a trans cooler - depending on how hot it gets where you race. Redline MT90 in the trans and 80W/140 in the diff. Get rid of the Porterfield brake pads and move up to at least Hawk Blues. Get as much air to the front rotors as possible (two 3" ducts are best, one to the caliper and one to the rotor). Keeping a car alive in an endurance racing is mostly about heat management (coolant, engine oil, trans and diff oil, brakes, driver comfort, and tires.) For spares you should bring one of everything and, if possible, four completely assembled suspension corners. You'll need the equipment to do complete oil and fluid changes, brake bleeding, caliper and rotor swaps, and draining the fuel cell without spilling a drop.

BS! Toyo alone makes the R1R in 195/55-15, 205-50-15, and 225-45-15 which it THE tire to have in the Solo2 Street Tire 140 tread wear category if your car is under 2,500 lbs. They also make the T1R in 195/50-15, 195/55-15, 205/45-15, 205/50-15, and 205/55-15 and that's the tire the WC Touring cars ran for a number of years. Its a very fast street tire. If you want to stay in the Solo2 ST tire performance level there's the Hankook Ventus RS3 in 225/45-15, the Dunlop Star Spec in 195/50-15, 195/55-15, and 305/50-15, and the Kumho XS in 205/50-15. There are even more tires available in the Ultra and High performance street tire category. On my 1971 240Z I ran the Micheline Exalto PE2s and used the car as an instructor car with Speedventures. The tires performed very well on the race track and were quiet and comfortable on the street.

Huh? Just on Tire Rack alone there are 18 high performance tires available in 205 to 225 15" sizes. If you go beyond tire rack there are over 25 different 15" performance tires available in the 15" size I mention.

Tune your car up including valve adjust, ignition, timing, fuel filters, etc. As mentioned above a good set of SUs, properly tuned, run great. And the guy that told you fuel pooled in the intake manifold under the Weber DGVs was full of crap. If there's so much fuel in the intake track that its pooling somewhere you would see clouds of black smoke behind the car.