John Coffey

No. Modified SUs can be made to work with up to about 240hp but you lose a lot of low rpm drivability. After that you need triples or fuel injection.

Yes, they will fit but the main hoop will be about 12" from the driver's head and will not provide the required protection. The main hoop should be within 6" of the driver's head.

Hope so.

The current trends in CLSD oil is towards higher viscosity numbers. OS Giken sells a 80W-250 that works very, very well in all my customer cars running OSG Super Locks.

You're right. 3.3.3.17 applies to wet cell batteries moved from the stock location. Some regions (Like Cal Club) have the positive battery terminal cover requirement int heir supp regs.

There's always a wreck where the battery positive terminal hits the bodywork (or the other way around). Its always a great idea to cover the positive terminal on the battery and you won't get on any drag strip, autocross course, or road race track without it.

The SFI rated dampers are supposed to be a very tight fit. In some cases you need to hone the ID to get it on correctly. Also, heating the damper to about 150 degrees (no hotter due to the ring bonding) helps.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#shim-stock/=7z6n0t and click on Slotted Shims.

BTW... my little comment about "Washington's Axe" wasn't meant to disparage the Big Sam car.

Ron's car is probably closer to the original then the original would be if it still existed and had been raced in the last few decades.

Reminds me of the "Washington's Axe" story. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ship_of_Theseus

Yup, a wrap or paint.

Send them here to get them cleaned and balanced: http://www.rceng.com/

Post swapping... :-)

This is a quick and dirty method for someone with a street car and a garage floor. Spinning each bushing and stopping the tightening process when all four won't spin anymore gets things pretty even on both sides. From there going to 25 ft. lbs. is maybe 1 to 1.5 turns. The OP is probably not worried about a 15 lb. pre-laod difference.

Its important from a handling perspective to make sure the anti-roll bar does not preload to either side of the car. What John (gnose) refers to above is a racer technique to make sure you're not prelaoding either side of the car. For a non-racer in their garage, here's how to do it. 1. Back off the end link nuts until the bolt just protrudes out the top of the nut. 2. Lower the car to the ground and roll it back and forth a bit to settle the suspension. 3. Put your son in the driver's seat. 4. Slowly tighten down one side while checking each of the end link bushings by turning them. When all four can't be turned anymore, stop tightening that side. 5. Go to the other side and repeat step 4. 6. Tighten both sides to 25 ft. lbs.

Lock an anteater in your car for a week.

The direction you're planning is probably better suited to the HybridZ.org membership. I mean no insult to this group.

FYI... spring rate calculators: http://www.swayaway.com/calculators/swayawayCalc.php

Completely normal for a Nissan transmission. Can be used as a purchasing tactic to tell an unknowing seller that the trans is junk.

If you do go with an increased capacity solution, make sure the final fluid gravity level is the same as with the stock cover. Don't do like another Datsun team and put a container in the spare tire well and then plumb it to the diff cover. The were literally pumping diff fluid out the side seals driving to grid.

In my discussions with Jim Thompson at Sunbelt Performance Engines, he said the same things that Alan posted above.

Everywhere between the front and rear license plates.

N42 block is fine for a 3.1L.

Measure the bore (should be 89mm), measure the stroke (should be 83mm), and remove one rod bolt and measure to be sure they are 9mm.