John Coffey

The Type A transmission bell housing come in handy when you adapting something like a Quaife Sequential 5 speed behind your L6. :-)

The actual shocks are identical - same body, same shaft, same pistons, same valving. The only difference in the spacer. You could knock the spacer off the 3016 and put it on the 3015.

HZ3015 front, HZ3016 rear.

Well, first you need to download the factory service manual. Once you have that you'll find that the brake pressure differential switch is under the master cylinder on the fender well.

Those areas are structural and form the connection between the firewall/cowl boxes and the rockers. Repair them properly and don't leave stuff out.

Brake pressure differential switch. If there's a pressure different of about 200psi between the front and rear brakes when the brake pedal is applied the shuttle valve in the switch will cut off brake fluid flow and pressure to the low pressure side. If the S30 brake system is not full of fluid, you must gravity bleed the front and rear brakes before pushing on the brake pedal.

Normal for an early car.

1515r

Generally the cause of knockback is hub flexing. Check the hub, bearings, races, and spindles. Check the spindles for cracks. Swap out the hubs after crack checking the replacements. Aftermarket brakes that move the caliper farther out from the hub via adapter brackets exacerbate knockback.

Pad knockback. There's enough flex in the hub and/or caliper mounting that the pads are pushed back into the caliper bores with any kind of lateral load. Common problem on 350Zs. Stoptech and others sell some light springs that go behind the caliper piston that keep the pads in slight contact with the rotors. Or, you get in the habit of doing a "confidence pump" before you get to any braking zone. If you look at footwork videos of most pro racing series (Australian Super Cars is the best for footwork videos) you'll see lots of pros doing this before any big braking zone.

If there's already rust inside the framerails, all you're doing is making yourself feel better by spraying POR15 (or any other rust "preventative") inside. You have to physically remove the rust and then apply a rust preventative.

Its not a problem.

Its really, really simple: Love of Car + Total Budget + Time Available < Restoration Cost + Restoration Time + Frustration Everything else in this thread is just rationalization.

R&R four struts, cut and TIG weld, install shocks/springs, and weld in camber plates for $200? I think the mechanic doesn't understand what he just estimated.

Unitrax in Anaheim.

Cut some Lexan in the exact shape of one of your side windows, slide it up into a small channel at the top of the window opening in the body, and use on of these to hold it in place at the door top.

Missed this... Not true. The SEB also uses their own opinions and opinions of others they feel are 'experts" in the area to help make the final decision. Its not based completely on member feedback. If option A gets the most positive member feedback that's no guarantee of approval. This SCCA is not a democracy by any stretch of the imagination. BTW... From the latest Fasttrack: Note the last entry. VG30DET in a 280ZX NA?

Here in California an automotive junkyard will not accept and will report to the police a vehicle that has had its VIN stamping altered or defaced. To get rid of the old chassis its needs to be cut up into multiple pieces and disposed of at a scrap metal yard.

Also, check the motor mounts for any bending or deterioration. Ding, ding, ding, ding! We have a winner!

It does more then that. There's a shuttle valve inside that will close off either the front or rear braking system if there's a hydraulic pressure variation between 187 and 250 psi. Its designed to keep from pumping all the brake fluid out of the system and give some stopping ability if a big leak occurs. It can also really screw up a brake bleeding job if you don't gravity bleed the complete system before pumping the brake pedal.

Stop! Put the Craigslist down and walk away from the keyboard. The first thing you should do is find a local Z car club and attend a couple meetings and get togethers. You will need some local support to help pick out the car and with any problems that might come up. Start cultivating that support by becoming a member of the local Z club. The second thing you should do is download the FSM for the cars you're thinking about. Read and see how much you understand and feel capable of doing. Third, price car insurance for the car. That might just kill the whole deal for right now. Good luck!

The amount and quality of grounding required has a lot to do with complexity and demands of the electrical system on the car. A stock 240Z has a very simple and low demand electrical system. Variations in baseline ground voltage have little effect on the car's performance. Conversely, my racing 240Z that ran a MotecM48 EMS required a true zero ground as a baseline reference for the computers and coils. That took some work making sure everything was grounded to a good chassis point and ensuring any electrical device grounded to the chassis didn't leak voltage. I had a fuel pump relay that changed the ground from a true zero to .5 volts and that threw off the EMS. Isolating that relay fixed a couple minor problems.

Why do you think the car needs a grounding bar?

Having installed dozens of different seats in S30s, here are some tips: 1. Carefully check the stock seat mounts to make sure there is no rust, no cracking (the front mounts are very crack prone), no extra holes already drilled, and the factory spot welds are still good. 2. Reinforce the front seat mount to prevent cracking by welding some .063" sheet metal across the top and re-drilling the mounting holes. 3. Reinforce the front seat mount by closing off the front and making the "L" into a box. Make sure to leave openings so you can install and tighten nuts onto the seat rail studs. 4. Reinforce the rear seat mounts by adding some .063" sheet metal across the top pad and redrill the mounting holes. 5. Seam weld the stock seat mounts to the floor pan.