John Coffey

What a wonderful car. I've seen Octane Magazine here in the states at Border's Books on the big magazine wall.

Yeah... that'll happen.

Actually, the variables go away once you make the following decisions: 1. Wheel and tire size. 2. Ride height. 3. Spring and shock. 4. Strut length. Do not cut any sheet metal until you make those four decisions in the order I list.

FYI... the link Jon posted above was a flare cut to fit 285/30-18s on 10.5" wide wheels for a car with a 6 1/2" ride height. Its the most extreme cut I've ever made and not something anyone on this board needs to do.

The definitive thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113064

And to echo what Les/Dennis posted above, the OS Giken Super Lock is probably the best diff I've ever run in a race car. I have on the in back of my 350Z. They are shipped from the factory with a "Spec S" setting of 100% lock under full torque. The rate of lockup is completely adjustable with springs.

If you want a Quaife diff, call Taylor Racing. They have them on the shelf for the R180. OS Giken is making a 25 spline Super Lock CLSD diff for 115mm ID ring gear R180s and I'm also a dealer for them. Should be four or five available when the boat gets here near the end of the month. I'm also in the process of machining 27 spline side shafts for the 2004 through 2007 WRX STi R180 that will bolt to the stock 240Z halfshafts. I have a SCCA IT customer waiting to install them in the 240Z and run a couple races to test things for me.

Its worth about $25 here in the US as scrap steel and aluminum.

My opinion above was based on time vs. money. If you've got lots of time and want to tackle this project, go for it. A big issue will be getting clean metal to weld to. Anything touched by the foam needs to removed. There really isn't a solvent that can clean Urethane based foam off of metal good enough to allow a clean weld. Maybe MEK but you'll still have some residue that will screw up part of the work. And breathing burning MEK will make your **** turn green and fall off. :-)

IMHO, strip the car of all the good parts, cut off any good body panels including the roof, and scrap the chassis. Find yourself another, clean chassis to build on.

From the July 1 1972 CP rules: Datsun 240Z Sports Capacity: 146 cu. in. Official Weight: 2018 lbs. Wheel Diameter: 14" Rim Width: 5.5" Lotus Europa Twin Cam Capacity: 1158 cc Offical Weight: 1338 lbs. Wheel diameter: 13" Rim Width: 5.5"

Most likely a Tokico gland nut will work. Koni also makes gland nuts in both sizes for the S30.

And that's why there's little aftermarket support for Datsuns. I talked with Borla at length about developing a full stainless exhaust for the 240Z, similar to what's available for the 350Z, RX8, STi, EVO, etc. and the $750 was a rough price assuming Borla could sell 50 of these a year. You guys, the Datsun owners (and that includes me too), are the reason for the lack of aftermarket support. Most folks settle for a $300 muffler shop system and complain about paying that much. On the high end I build and install a few full mandrel bent race exhausts with merge collectors for S30s each year. Typical prices are $700 for mild steel and over $1,100 for stainless. What's missing in the 240Z market is enough people willing to pay for something in between the low and high ends of the price range. There are lots of people willing to pay middle range prices in the Mustang, BMW, Camaro markets, but for some reason they are either hiding or non-existent in the Datsun world.

So... who's willing to pay about $750 for a stainless Borla 2.25" exhaust that bolts up to the stock exhaust manifold and includes a Borla muffler?

Check tire stagger.

All carrier's tariff regulations require the receiver to inspect the package upon delivery and immediately report any damage or refuse delivery. Waiting 13 days to report any damage was a mistake and gives the carrier a way out. Always make the driver wait while you open the box and inspect the contents. FYI... I've used BAX/Schenker exclusively for 6 years to ship composite parts around the world and have never had a claim. There have been a couple close calls with shipments inside the US but my packaging saved the day. The shipping side of BAX/Schenker has been very good in my experience. Their back office (bill payment, claims, etc.) sucks.

Yes they are the same ID unless there's corrosion or dirt/oil buildup on the inside.

At a minimum you need new front shocks and bumpstops. Parts will cost around $175 and then you need to install them yourself or pay someone else to do it.

The bolts are M10 x 1.25 pitch and its difficult to find them in Class 10.9. You can find Class 8.8 which would be fine for a street driven car. If you're looking for Class 10.9 then Tacoma Screw Products has then in quantity. http://www.tacomascrew.com/

Resonators are used in conjunction with a muffler.

The 3.9 R180 was installed in European, Australian, and Japanese 240Zs.

Datsun Alley is still there and in business. As mentioned above, Marc Jones sold it along with a warehouse full of Datsun parts about 3.5 years ago. I bought a pallet of struts and suspension parts from Marc as he shut things down.

Just to muddy the waters, I generally lightly grease the shock body before installing it in a strut tube. The idea is to make sure is comes out easily for the next guy.

Almost, I used to shoe my ex-wife's horses whenever the rear farrier couldn't come by. Metal is metal and heat is its primary motivator.

The incorrect way: 1. Find a 12 or 14mm bolt with 1.5p threads. 2. Clamp the strut tube horizontally in a vice with the dented part down. 3. Using a Oxy/Acetalyn/Propane torch, heat the damaged are area until its a dull red. 4. Take the bolt and slip the threads into the damaged are. 5. Using a hammer, tap on the side of the bolt and carefully put the proper curve back into the threaded top of the strut. Use a gland nut to check. 6. Repeat steps 3 thru 5 until you get it fixed.