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John Coffey

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Everything posted by John Coffey

  1. John Coffey
    Those numbers have nothing to do with any SAE, ISO, or DIN fastener standards. They may have something to do with a JIC fastener standard but I'm not sure. Way back then, OEMs bought fasteners in such volume that they could specify their own fastener standards and thus delete any standardized markings on the heads. When building suspensions under these cars I use class 10.9 fasteners or clean up and re-use good factory fasteners.
  2. John Coffey
    Why is this thread still here?
  3. John Coffey
    IMHO, the combination is good with a few changes for a street driven car: 1. Use stock rubber bushings when replacing the tension control rod bushings. 2. Use stock rubber bushings on the outer rear lower control arms (where they meet the rear strut housing). 3. Be careful about how much positive caster you dial into the front suspension when using poly inner control arm bushings. Its easy to bind the front. 4. Replace your ball joints, tie rod ends, engine and transmission mounts, steering rack boots, and differential mount while you're working on the car.
  4. John Coffey
    Bob at Vintage Motors (http://www.vintageride.net) does engine bay refreshes all the time. Typically the price is $1,000 to $1,500 if you drive the car in and drive the car home.
  5. John Coffey
    Cooler appears to be a 17 plate Mocal, lines are generic.
  6. John Coffey
    I gotta step in here. The front frame rails on the S30 are not paper thin and if you guys didn't torque everything to 100 ft. lbs. maybe you wouldn't be crushing things. There is almost no place on a S30 that needs 1/8" steel sheet. .083" steel sheet is strong enough (per SCCA, NASA, and others) to support roll cage mounting points on any race car in the USA. .125" steel sheet to support an anti-roll bar is overkill. A C-Channel of .063" steel sheet stich welded to the frame rail with holes drilled through allowing nuts and bolts to fasten the anti-roll bar mounting is plenty. Torque the M8 fasteners to 35 ft. lbs. using Nylocs and you'll have nothing to worry about. EDIT: deleted a pejorative word. Sorry.
  7. John Coffey
    Did you bed the new pads and rotors before going out on the track or during the first session?
  8. John Coffey
    There will now be two records in the books: Jaguar 42.0 Others 40.0
  9. John Coffey
    In the USA, 1973 and some very late 1972 240Zs had the anti-roll bar brackets welded onto the rear subframe on the chassis but no anti-roll bar installed from the factory. Sometime during the 1974 260Z model run the anti-roll bars got installed. The BRE/Mulholland/Suspension Techniques kit pictures above is an aftermarket setup that positions the anti-roll bar behind the diff. This is generally a better design especially if your car is lowered more then 2". The factory rear anti-roll bar position can bind at the end links and/or hit the subframe on heavily lowered S30s. Notching the subframe and modifying the end links (going to rod ends) can solve these problems.
  10. John Coffey
    Drive your car for 20 miles and then check again.
  11. John Coffey
    Check the float level in the carbs and the fuel pump.
  12. John Coffey
    And, after measuring dozens of halfshafts from 280Zs, 260Zs, and 240Zs I have yet to find any variance in length. I've also had a couple Z racers measure the halfshafts in their piles and a couple parts hoarders measure halfshafts in their stashes. So far, no luck in finding a S30 halfshaft that is any shorter fully compressed then any other S30 halfshaft.
  13. John Coffey
    National Spring near San Diego will wind a single set (4) of springs per spec. Prices, the last time I checked, were $500 per set in quantities under 10 sets.
  14. John Coffey
    Asiaracecarman, What shocks? From the picture it looks like the insulator and upper spring perch are installed incorrectly or the shock you're using is too short.
  15. John Coffey
    Go to McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com) and search on "belting." You can order pre-made belts of various widths and lengths in many different materials (leather, rubber, urethane, fiber reinforced rubber, Kevlar) and colors. The strap on the 240Z is just an industrial belt of a specific width and length.
  16. John Coffey
    One thing to keep in mind as a purist when building these 2.7 engines, you have no more overbores left on the block. Something goes wrong or the engine wears out and the block is a boat anchor unless you're willing to go the sleeve route.
  17. John Coffey
    Measure the OD of your strut tube. Typical 240Z strut tubes are 2.010" and typical 280Z strut tubes are 2.150". I can't compare your strut tube measurements with mine because I don't where on the strut you're measuring. I measure the length of the inside of the strut tube and here are the numbers I have: 240Z Front: 15.125" 240Z Rear: 16.750" 280Z Front: 14.750" 280Z Rear: 18" For the work I do I've never measured where the spring perch is on the strut tube because I'm always cutting them off.
  18. John Coffey
    Your car is a later 260Z and has the 280Z dimensioned strut tubes front and rear. You need to use 280Z specific components because of these dimensional differences and because the rear strut tower sheet metal in the back of your car is higher in the body then on a 240Z. Your car is essentially a 280Z without the 2.8L engine. Using 240Z springs on a 280Z chassis makes the rear of the car ride about 1 to 1.5" below level. You can do it, but you'll need to assemble and install the suspension, drive it around for a day, determine how much to cut in front, disassemble, cut, and reassemble.
  19. John Coffey
    As a tire/wheel amateur I did 4 hours on track at WSIR running a basically stock 240Z on 195/60-14 Kumho V700s. I was amazed at the control the car had and how tossable it was. Turn 1 was a hoot sideways at 75 mph! Probably the most fun I had on track with a 240Z.
  20. John Coffey
    If you go with a 195/60-14 size you have three great high performance summer tires to choose from: Hankook Ventus RS2, Bridgestone Potenza Pole Position 960, Yokohama AVS ES100.
  21. John Coffey
    Yes, depending on the internal length of the strut tubes. I can also set you up with shorter HP shocks that will fit fine inside shortened strut housings, if yours are shorter then stock. But, with the spring rates you list, you'll be about at the limit of the rebound control offered by the HP shocks. The Illuminas would be a better choice and the Tokico HTS shocks the best.
  22. John Coffey
    Stahl typically offers a 1 5/8" and 1 3/4" primary tube size on their race headers. The dual exhaust setup you guys are discussing is great from a nostalgic point of view but exhaust technology has moved on. This setup will give you less horsepower and torque then a good single 2.5" or 3" exhaust.
  23. John Coffey
    The copper washer was/is a common dealer fix for hub bearing issues and I've seen them in probably half of the few dozen S30 rear hub assemblies I've torn down and rebuilt. Copper does not continue to crush once the nut is tightened and staked. I've also seen a couple aluminum washers.
  24. John Coffey
    Ignore the torque numbers (get rid of the torque wrench) and focus on end play and pre-load spec. End play is more important then pre-load spec so if you can get under .005 with a pre-load of 4 then I would go with that. You can also source a copper crush washer the same ID/OD as the inside end of the companion flange and use that to get to the specs. EDIT: If you're going to tear the assembly down again, clean out that black grease and run Redline Synthetic EP grease.
  25. John Coffey
    Basically useless here in the US for the reasons cited above. I get a call a day from Obama, McCain, the RNC, or the DNC wanting money. That's what I get for registering as an Independent. Also, there was a report last year that the "do not call registry" here in the US had been hacked and the numbers were being used by entities outside the US to make sales calls.
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