John Coffey

I watch these videos from time to time and the cars on track still look very fake, at least to me. They don't roll properly, the suspensions don't move properly, tires don't deflect, no real yaw, and more. The static look of the cars are fantastic, but they still haven't got the dynamics.

You'll need to cut sheet metal, flare both the front and rear, and run coil overs to fit those wheels and tires properly sized for those wheel widths.

Linda Lovelace.

I've sent USPS and FedEx to various places in Mexico and never had a problem.

Mostly sunny so far this morning here in La Habra. Saturday should be nicer.

That's all well and good for a tubular or finite element structure, but we are talking about a monocoque structure where shear panels comprise most of the strength of the structure. Even a roll cage relies on these shear panels for its strength at the bottom. You Porsche 944 convertible is aperfect example of this. They just added a second layer to the floor pan shear panel. A 240Z floor has 3 longitudinal structures (rocker panels and trans tunnel) and one lateral structre (front seat mounts) with shear panels connecting all of them. Add in two more longitudinal structures (SFCs) and now you have longitudinal members with one semi-crossmember all reinfoced by a shear panel. Again, as I've said before, adding two additional tubular structural members in an "X" to a structure that has 5 longitudinal members and a shear panel is just adding weight. That weight is better applied in at least half-a-dozen other places on the chassis.

No testing, just some FEA done by Bill Savage of NPTI fame when we were reinforcing the Rusty Old Datsun cahssis. Reinforcing the already reinforced bottom of a box (one that already has SFCs) doesn't add anything significant. Think of what manufacturers go through to reinforce a convertible chassis - the big bang for the buck comes from reinforcement above the floor pan.

Saturday December 8, 2007 Fourth annual low key car show and toy drive for families and children that live in La Habra, California. All makes and model are welcome and Bob, the owner of Vintage Motors, is an ex-Nissan/Infinity master tech and likes old Datsuns. Its in the same industrial complex as my shop. http://www.vintageride.net

And that light blue car is running a BetaMotorsports fiberglass hood! Whoo Hoo! Laurence Evans at Star Motorsports/Motormec has prepared three (I think) of the 240Zs competing in this year's event.

You're looking at a 4.25" backspace which will probably rub on the OEM spring. EDIT: Bad math. With a 7.5" wide wheel and that 20mm offset you will have 4.5" of backspace and you will definately be rubbing on the spring/strut. You will need at least a 3/4" wheel spacer and will most likely have to roll the fender lips.

Or maybe just use slightly modified stock intake manifolds with slightly more modified dual SUs and make up to 240hp at the crank with the right cam and cmopression. Even more then that with a stroker kit and some big bore SUs... Just a thought.

Have you been drinking?

You're assuming the clearnace should be on the balance screw. The clearance is between the fast idle screw and the linkage. Lightly push on the balance screw while making sure there is a clearance between the fast idle screw and the linkage.

Caveat Emptor. Last I looked this is still America and profit is the chief goal of any business and most individuals. You may not like muscle car collectors but there's nothing wrong or immoral about the prices those cars sell for.

If you buy "universal fit" parts and expect them to "bolt-on" the car, then yes, you're wrong. If you buy Z specific parts from MSA, Black Dragon, Shox.com, etc. then you can expect them to fit properly.

Oh, the exhuast. I thought he was talking about your butt Ron. :laugh:

Camber plates, monoballs, adjustable anti-roll bars with rod end links, aluminim bushings, pillow ball TC rod mounts, threaded shock bodies/struts, relocated front and rear lower control arms, etc. That's if you want to go fast... :-)

Two inches down and four inches back is typical. Leaning the engine involves a lot of work for a very minimal return unless you're willing to go as far as the Electramotive guys went.

Napa 1515r.

Think five figures for Brian's DOHC cylinder head (complete) if he ever decides to do a production run. LY crossflow two valve heads are around $20K+ right now if you can find one.

Cheaper would be a swap to a 3:54 R180. 3.90 geared R180s are rare and moving to a 3.90 R200 adds weight and requires a moustache bar change.

GR2s are different then regular KYBs. A little better shock then a standard KYB. Also, whenever you lower a car you need to shorten the bump stops. Lower the car 1", shorten the bump stops 1".

What Arne said. You need a set of Tokico HPs. The KYBs are basically an OEM repalcement shock and don't have enough rebound control for springs stiffer then stock.

First, spend your time and money making sure your stock engine is running perfectly. Compression test, tune up, valve adjust, carb sync, etc. If your compression numbers are good (170 or above on all 6 cylinders) then you might be able to get a 15% power increase using the following: Nissan Motorsports 1 5/8" headers. 2 into 1 merge collector. 2.5 " mandrel bent exhaust Electronic ignition Good plug wires (Magnecore, NGK) Medium cam (L7 or L9) Intake and exhaust port matching SM needles ITG air filters

I also sell Tokico suspension products and I can sometimes match prices if you show me a link to an eBay auction from a vendor that has a storefront. Also, with me you have someone who can answer questions... :-) http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/Tokico%20-%20Datsun%20S30.html