John Coffey

There should be no color difference if the panels are painted at the some time using the same paint batch. Below is a shot of a full carbon fiber hood on my old 240Z painted with Toyota Super White 2. The fenders have the same paint color but they were painted about 4 years earlier.

A fiberglass hood or hatch with a layer of carbon fiber on top. Its a fiberglass part with a very thin, light weave trim layer of CF on top.

Carbon fiber is readily available but the prices have gone up. I sell real CF hoods and hatches for the 240Z. http://www.betamotorsports.com

Its just a regular old o-ring. Take one of the old ones down to an industrial hardware store (forget Home Depot and Lowes) and you can buy a new replacement for 50 cents.

The differential in the pictures is an R180 with the bolt-in stub axles. I sell a modified 240Z stub axle that snaps into R180 differentials that use the snap rings. http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/SnapInStubs.html

As Carl has posted above, there are maybe ten 240Zs in the US that are worth $50K or more. That list includes the Bob Sharp cars and the Frissel car. All the others can be pruchased, given some time and patience, for under $40K. The serious car resotoration/auction players are just starting to eye the 240Z but the financials just don't work out yet. If its going to take $50K (including the purchase price) to end up with a Barret Jackson auction quaility car and you can't get more then $40K for the car, the money is better spent on restoring and auctioning a Z28. That's where the money is going right now.

I've always liked the 350Z and have been very impressed with the performance you get for the price. I bought a 2006 base model for under $26,000 and it weighs 3,217 lbs, has a an almost perfect 49.8% cross weight, and handles very well right out of the box. It feels (acceleration and handling) very much like my old BSP prepared 240Z, although softer. It brakes far better then my old 240Z. IMHO, compared to its current competition, it fills the modern 240Z roll very well. Its also building up a race resume that's comparable to the 240Z.

Call Bob at ASI (shox.com) 619-444-9766.

Suspension Techniques sells a front anti-roll bar hardware kits that includes the bushings, clamps, end links, and fasteners. Its expensive at aorund $60 but has exactly what you need (and more).

Your muffler guy is lazy. I built (for a customer) exactly what you're looking for using these glasspacks from Summit Racing (part # SUM-630802) and a simple Magnaflow Y pipe (part # MPE-10758).

I've got a pallet of 240Z struts in the shop. I can sell you a whole corner for $50. http://www.betamotorsports.com.

If you want to install it the correct way (assuming a sqaure chassis): 1. Level the car side-to-side and fore-aft on a set of slip plates and corner weight scales. 2. Set the ride height and corner weights. 3. Using a camber gauge and a level, set each wheel perpendicular to the ground and the chassis. 4. Check the car level, ride height, and corner weights again. Adjust. 5. Install the STB and adjust it so its tight but not affecting wheel camber, ride height, and/or corner weights. A STB is supposed to maintain chassis dimensions so that suspension geometry remains as consistent as possible. Without any data, just tensioning a STB until it "feels right" is most likely distorting the chassis.

Being a SAE member, here's the summary from SAE themselves:

$1 says it will be relisted in a couple weeks.

The only time I ever made money fixing up my own car: Purchased a 1961 Ford Falcon with no interior for $5. I screwed a beach chair (found next to someone's trash can on trash day) to the floor pan with self tapping sheet metal screws and painted the car with $12 of rattle cans. Sold it a week later for $100. I do make money fixing up other people's cars, but I would take home more money if I had stayed in the software industry.

Nope. The output shaft from the transfer case is spining in the correct direction and the front diff is part time use only. The gears can make contact on either side of the teeth without any undue wear (you can drive your 240Z in reverse, correct)?

Yes they will fit if you're willing to do the following: 1. Install a coil over kit. 2. Cut the sheetmetal and flare the car front and back.

From Autoweek: http://www.autoweek.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20070515/FREE/70514008/1025/FREE

Damn! Sometimes it sucks being married...

Carefully stamp "Bob Sharp Racing" and a bogus Nissan part number "99998-BSR46" on the wheel center. Make up a story about finding this in the trash pile at Lime Rock. Put it on eBay and make a few thousand on the deal.

IMSA and SCCA sometimes require an external update to a classed vehicle so it appears more contemporary. The Frissell 260Z is actually a 240Z updated with 260Z exterior parts. Sometimes competitors do an extrnal upgrade so they can run a larger displacement engines at the upgraded vehicle's weight.

Those are Mulholland/Inter Part aluminum/delrin offset bushings. The delrin is worn out but can be replaced. Much better bushings then polyurethane from a performance standpoint. They would not contribute to your tires rubbing the front valance.

http://www.gounitrax.com. They've installed 4 Quaifes in R180s for me. Unfortunately its clear across the country from you.

Yes, maybe, and no. What are the specific mods to the 280Z? What performance metrics are you talking about? Who's driving the cars? I've seen a basically stock 280Z on R compound tires beat a modified 350Z around a race track. I've also seen a stock 350Z beat a highly modified 240Z around a race track. On any given day on any given track, a 280Z can beat a 350Z. Same is true the other way around.

If you have the ST part number, check with Summit Racing.