John Coffey

They sit underneath the top of the strut tower and are held in place by the two stainless bolts. No need to cut the towers.

Why I ran the Motec M48 EMS on the Rusty Old Datsun it was important to get a good ground because the EMS needed it as a base reference. I was also running a 16v battery and a Bosch Motorsports 16v alternator. All it took to get a perfect ground was a #6 battery ground cable and a copper strap connecting the engine to the chassis at the alternator mount.

I'll toot my own horn: http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/240StrutKit.html

Leather interior Bigger stereo Spoiler Automatic transmission Heated seats Cruise control Bigger wheels and tires VLSD Upgraded carpet More sound deadener Auto dimming mirrors Heated mirrors Floor mats Aluminum interior trim Navigation system Extra interior lights

My base 2006 without the spare or jack and 1/2 tank of fuel weighs 3217. Earlier base models are lighter with some just under 3100. The huge weights quoted in most magazines were from fully loaded press fleet cars.

I though the S2K was a T3 car this year? Maybe not although I do know a few people requested a reclass of the car from T2 to T3.

I'm not sure where this is coming from, Nissan Motorsports offers pretty good contingencies and parts discounts (up to "free") for registered racers. The dollars are comparable to what Honda offers based on my discussions with Bob Endicott. Regarding race prep costs, having done race prep on two Honda S2Ks I also am at a loss as to why its supposedly cheaper then the 350Z to build into a race car. Both require full cages, both require expensive shocks, both require big wheels and tires, both require oiling system upgrades, both require racing clutches, both require fuel cells, both require racing seats, etc. Where are the dollar savings?

Well... from my racing perspective the 350Z has already won a national championship in GT and is very competitve in T2 and BS. Its also been winning professional races in Grand Am since 2003. The car is carrying on the tradition of the 240Z on the race track and is equal to its main competition, the RX8 and the S2000. There is huge aftermarket support for the car and you can build one anyway you like - from a 2,600 lb. 350 hp track car to a 3,700 lb. 550hp, bling bling stereo, wing, neon, 22" spinner street circus.

Forget the Uni-syn. It typically only flows enough to sync the carbs at idle. I've had great success using a Synchrometer (http://www.international-auto.com/index.cfm/fa/p/pid/2727/sc/8140) to sync the carbs at idle and at 2,500 rpm.

Summir racing part number STQ-52095 $249.90 shipped.

The best oil is the stuff that comes up from the ground as a bubblin' crude when you're out shootin' for some food.

Wow! Out of the gravel and snakes of Arizona...

Hemmingway never said that. I agree that a new driver should spend time in a performance driver training program. Personally I think it needs to be more structured then a HPDE or an open track day. Most police departments that have access to officer driver training programs offer a teenage driving course. I've paid for all my niece's and nephew's attendence at those courses when they first got their driver's license. There are some very basic things that need to be learned before a new driver gets on a track. Regarding any unique driving techniques or tips to driving an early Z: There's nothing really different about driving these cars compared to others, if the early Z is properly maintained. The basic chassis behavior is no different then a mid 90s Miata or any other small rear wheel drive car. Its also very similar to a higher performance front wheel drive car like an Integra Type R or a later generation Prelude. My driving tips for someone just starting out: Keep your eyes up and look ahead. Keep your eyes up and check your mirrors every few seconds. Always think about what you are doing. Keep the radio off and listen to the car. Try to feel what each tire is doing as you're driving. Pay attention to how the clutch feels. Pay attention to how the brakes feel. Drive by yourself a lot so you're not distracted by conversation.

225/50-15s on 15 x 8 wheels are perfect for a 240Z. The same tire on a 15 x 7 wheel is as near perfect as you can get. I'm running the Michelin Pilot Exalto PE2.

John Thomas is from another world when it comes to driving a prepared car. He could probably beat the class running 8" wide wheels.

Finally, after three years of cajoling by the local racers, I got my act together and I can start manufacturing these: http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/240ZBrakeMCBracket.html John Wilkins, racing with VARA on the west coast, has the first "production" one on his car if you folks want to look at one in person. I ran the prototype (designed and built by Bill Savage of NPTI fame) on the Rusty Old Datsun for two years. Mike: if this is inappropriate, sorry, please delete.

Stick or auto? I might be interested.

Differential front mount, differential strap, moustache bar bushings - I would replace all of them now that the diff is out of the car. I woudl also have the dirveshaft and halfshaft u-joints checked.

Here's what $1,000+ gets you:

My location for the return was based on my own "monkey-see-monkey-do" engineering from a picture of an old BRE car. Maybe it wasn't the best spot but seemed to worked fine. Also, use the R180 diff cover gasket from the front diff off a 720 4x4 pickup. It has an extra tab that shields the vent from fluid splash.

I've run the following pump and a small Mocal cooler. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=til-40-524 I plumbed the -6 return line into the top of the diff so it dumped right where the R&P meet. The scavange line was plumbed into a male -6 AN fitting welded to the drain opening on the rear diff cover. BTW... these pumps last about a season and need a 30 amp fuse.

People compare mis-adjusted, leaking, out of spec drum brakes with a mythical perfect disc brake conversion and then say that drum brakes are not as good as discs? Having run both and done conversions from drums to discs on three different 240Zs I can say the following: 1. Properly setup and working drum brakes are equal in performance to a disc conversion everywhere except in the second or third hour of an edurance event on a road race track. 2. The proper setup and maintenance of rear drum brakes is detailed in the FSM and is not difficult or time consuming. 3. Drum brakes are lighter then a disc brake conversion. 4. Drum brake parts are getting scarce and more expensive. 5. Getting the brake balance right after changing the front calipers/rotors generally requires an adjustable prop valve. 6. Drum brakes don't look cool.

Split lock washers most of the time mark or scratch the surface they are tightened against. Nope, by the time the bolt has turned enough to allow the spring or star lock washer to bite into the material, the bolt has already lost tension. Per the AN935 spec the spring lock washer works (what little it actually does) by maintaining tension on the bolt during heat cycles and very small cyclical loads. BTW... the number one most effective way to keep a bolt or nut from losening is to use a NEW fastener and torque it to spec in a clean and properly threaded hole/nut. The number two way is to use an elastic stop nut or a very specifically designed locking bolt. Spring lock washers are about the worst form of locking device ever developed.

In cased anyone needs something like this... I made a set for myself and then had to immediately made another set for a customer. I guess there's a need for these things. http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/SnapInStubs.html

Turn 2 tire wall at Phoenix International Raceway.