John Coffey

Just need the R&P unless you don't want to spend the time removing it from the housing.

What's the serial number? If it is indeed an early Z, you would be better off financially restoring it stock. Look for the serial number on the driver's door jamb, next to the master cylinder on the firewall, or on the plate attached to the right front strut tower in the engine compantment. The number should start with an "H".

Dave Rebello wants $600 to rebuild an R180 and install the Quaiffe!? Call these guys: http://www.gearedbyunitrax.com/main.html - Ask for Jerry. They've built me three R180s - one with the Nissan Comp LSD and two with Quaifes. $300 including all new bearings and seals.

I think both carbs flow a combined 290cfm. But, I question your basic premise. Many folks have tried the 2/4 barrel conversions on Nissan L6s and are extremely lucky to get them to perform as well as the stock SUs. Familiarity with certain carburator designs may make this a more comfortable choice, but why pass up the chance to learn something new? SU carbs are as reliable as any Holley, Autolite, Carter, or Rochester when setup correctly and are as unreliable as the same carbs when setup incorrectly.

You don't really need a complete box around the carb intakes. What I suggest you do is two things: 1. Build a heat shield between the headers and the carbs that routs the heat rearward and up. 2. Add an opening in the hood (probably use a 280Z hood) that lets that heat escape. At low speeds you have to use convection to get the heat out of the engine compartment.

Got one new from Pep Boys last year for $16.99.

Probably and no.

Yes.

Apply for an EIN from the IRS and then organize as a non-profit under the IRS' 501©3 ruls.

Smaller, lighter battery. Lightweight racing seats. Remove stereo, speakers, antenna, and wiring. Aluminum radiator. Sheet metal headlight buckets. Remove hood hinges, springs, and latch mechanism. Replace with pins. Carbon fiber or fiberglass hood. Carbon fiber or fiberglass rear hatch. Replace rear hatch glass with Lexan. Remove AC and heater and all related switches and plumbing. Use Type B 4 speed. Lightweight rims and tires (weigh them, don't rely on what the sales people tell you.) Run the early bumpers and get rid of any overriders. Run a header with a thin wall stainless exhaust system.

In addition to thinking about more power, keep working on reducing the weight of the car. Lightwieght racing seats add immensly to the feel of the car and can be very comfortable on the street. Smaller, lighter battery, light rims and tires, going back to the stock single piston front calipers, removing the stereo, stainless exhaust, etc.

> how much hp does the L24 engine from the 240Z produce? About 120 at the rear wheels and the books says about 150. > was it ever fuel injected? No. The L28 engine in the 280 had Bosche L-Jetronic fuel injection. > I saw specifications from a chilton manual stating that the 77 > and 78 810 with the L24 could produce 154 hp and it has EFI. And the spec for the 280Z L28 was something like 170 hp. > anybody know why? The 154 number is close to what the spec is for the L24 in the Z. > and anyway to modify to the higher hp? Seems like that's already been done. If you need more, there are hundreds of ways to get more horserpower out of an L24. All you need is money and time. Read up on this site and at: http://www.zhome.com http://www.hybridz.org http://www.zcar.com http://www.zdriver.com

Go to http://www.zhome.com and start reading. Wick Humble's "How to Resore Your Datsun Z-Car" is a must have. Educate yourself first before writing that $5K check. It'll save you thousands!

Go to the Campfire Stories forum and read "The Stub Axle." There are two tricky parts about removing the stub axle and both involve removing the nut holding it in. You have to cut off the flats that are peened into the axle before removing the nut. A die-grinder or Dremel with a cut-off wheel is the way to go. Using a chisel tends to damage the threads on the axle. The second tricky part is getting the nut off. You'll have to generate about 250 ft. lbs. of torque to remove it. An air impact gun helps a lot here. Once the nut is off, you can either use the slide hammer routine or put a brass punch on the back of the axle and pound it out with a hammer. Inspect the stub axle for cracks or pits around the splines and where the flange is fusion welded to the axle (both sides). If there are any cracks or pits, throw the stub axle away and start searching junk yards. Check the old (and new) bearings while they are in the housing to be sure the outer race does not spin in the housing. It should be a slight press fit. If the outer bearing race spins in the housing (rare), your strut housing is ovaled and is junk. Back to the junkyard. After 250,000 miles its time to replace the bearings and the seals. Only buy brand new Nissan, Timken, or SKF bearings. Have the outer pressed on at a machine shop, repack with Mobile 1 or Redline synthetic, and reassemble. Don't worry about the pre-load measurement listed in the Haynes or Nissan manual. You can't adjust it. Just be sure to use the correct spacer and also be sure to put the axle, spacer, and companion flange back in the side of the car they came off. Good luck!

So many questions... > I'm figuring I'll end up with coilovers in the long run, but to start > out I'm thinking springs, Koni's, poly bushings, and adjustable > sway bars. Replace every suspenstion bushing, steering rack, steering coupler, moustache bar bushing, etc. with poly. When you run coilovers on a 240Z you have to shorten the strut tubes to get back some suspension travel. If you get a set of struts right now you'll have to replace them with shorter ones when you go to coilovers. > What spring rates should I start with? For a stock suspension car you'll have to go with whatever springs you can get. You don't have much choice on rates. European Stage 2 springs, Eibachs, or Suspension Techniques are all OK choices. The Euro springs ahve the lowest rate and the Suspension techniques the highest. The Eibahcs (if you cna still get them) at the best choice because they lower the car only about 1". > How much can I lower the car without messing up the > suspension geometry? Any lowering messes up the geometry on the front of a 240Z. The inherent bumpsteer problem is exacerbated and there's no SP legal way to correct it. Without shortening the struts you don't want to lower the car more than an inch. > How much camber will the car pick up when it is lowered? Are > camber plates absolutely necessary, or can I get away with > doing them later? Probably .5 degrees negative in the front and a little more in the rear. The Z needs about the following alignment settings to get it to work the best in autocross: Front Camber - 3 to 3.5 degrees negative Caster - 6 degrees positive Toe - 1/4 to 3/8" out Ackerman - any that you cna get Ride height - 4.5 to 5" Rear Camber - 2.5 to 3 degrees negative Caster - exactly at factory spec Toe - 0 to 3/16" in You need coilovers, camber plates, and offset poly bushings to hit those numbers. > Are there any rear ends that I can ud/bd that have a decent > LSD? I know I'll have to put in an aftermarket one eventually, > but the budget is pretty tight. Also, what rear end ratios are > available? No factory LSDs were available in the 240/260/280Z. You have two diff choices, the R180 and the R200. The R180 is the way to go because its lighter and has better halfshaft angles. Its plenty strong for anything up to 300hp. You ahve two ratio choices: 3.36 or 3.54. Go with the 3.54. A Nissan Comp clutch LSD is $800 new and about $400 used. For autocross you want to run a 70lb preload and you'll have to rebuild it each year. A Quaife is about $1,000. A welded up R180 is about $100 and, with proper suspension tuning, can be very effective. > Is there any way to ud/bd 4 wheel discs and is this mod worth > doing? Not legal in SP and not worth the extra weight at an autocross. > I've heard the heads from some years breathe better than > others, what years should I look at? You'll want to run an L28 using the N42 block and N42 head. > I'm guessing that custom FI is the ultimate way to go for > power, but since I'm poor what carburator(s) is/are > recommended? The stock 1970 thru 1972 SU carbs are very good. > What would you recommend for wheels and tires? Will a 13x10 > with 225/45/13 Hoosiers (you know, CSP wheels) be enough > tire with the stock motor? > I'm guessing I'll need to put more rubber down when I start > making more power, what wheel/tire combos are the other BSP > cars running? I don't think those rims will clear the front calipers. If so, then they will work but you might have some fender clearance problems. Most folks run either 225/50-15 Kumho or Hoosiers on 15 x 7 or 15 x 8 rims, or 245-265/45-16 Kumho or Hoosier tires on 16 x 8 or 16 x 10 rims.

http://www.opentrackchallenge.com/ I'll be running my 240Z in the Unlimited 2 class.

Here's a good place to start reading: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html

Scott Bruning at Z Therapy is rumored to be testing an L6 with six SU carbs on it. I think he's just doing it for fun. The two carb SU setup Nissan designed for the L6 works very well to about 250 crank horsepower. Above that you need to run fuel-injection or triple Webers.

Also works well to make you feel better after twice trying to trash your car... ;-)

Sorry for the really late reply... A racing coil-over suspension usually consistes of a camber plate, shortened strut tubes, 2.5" or 2.25" diameter 10" or 8" linear coil springs, and an adjustable lower spring perch. Because the springs are easily replaced, you can run as soft or a as firm a spring rate as you desire. Stock Z spring rates were around 110 lb in. Racing spring rates are at least double and sometimes triple that rate. Personally I think racing coil-over kits are not appropriate for the street. When mounted correctly they transmit a significant amount of road and suspension noise into the car. In addition, they are an expensive way to get a lowered street look. John Coffey johnc@betamotorsports.com

The noise could be anything, but internal diff noises normally don't just suddenly appear. I would check mouting bolts (tran, diff, and all suspension), lug nuts, u-joints, etc. ------------------ ---------- John Coffey johnc@betamotorsports.com

Hi, Sorry for the late reply... For a stock or slightly modified L6 engine its really hard to beat the torque and horsepower you get from dual SUs. Nissan did their homework and its a good induction system. When you start into the heavier modifications like aggresive cams, higher compression, head work, etc. then you'll benefit from the additional breating that triple Webers, Solexes, etc. give you. Now, you said that you have a 280ZX engine, right? I suggest you use the L-jetronic fuel injection system that came stock on that engine. When tuned and working properly its as good or better than any dual SU setup. Good luck and welcome. ------------------ ---------- John Coffey johnc@betamotorsports.com [This message has been edited by John Coffey (edited 02-15-2001).]

Keith, Really check the car out for rust. In particular, use a screwdriver and check: 1. The drive and passenger floorpans (from below and above). 2. The front frame rails from the firewall forward. 3. The rear hatch striker plate panel. 4. The rocker panels and boxes on both sides of the car. From the insiode you can peel up the vinyl covers over the rocker boxes and look inside. ------------------ ---------- John Coffey johnc@betamotorsports.com

Front brake rotors (2) Front brake calipers (2) Front brake bleeder screws (2) Front "S" brake lines (1) Front hub (1) Front lug bolts (4) Lug nuts (16) Front brake pads (2 sets) Rear brake drums (2) Rear wheel cylinders (2) Rear brake lines (1) Rear brake shoes (1 set) Master cylinder (1) Front lower control arm w/ bushing & ball joint (1) Front wheel bearings inner/outer (2 sets) Rear lower control arm w/ bushings (1) Stub axles (1) Companion flange (1) Rear wheel bearings (2 sets) Cotter pins (various) Complete built up halfshaft (1) Complete built up driveshaft (1) Rear lug bolts (4) Front diff mount (1) Front diff strap (1) Trans mount (1) Engine mount (2) Transmission (1) Clutch (1) Pressure plate (1) Clutch slave cylinder (1) Tie rod end (2) Fuel pump (1) Fuel filters (2) Fuel hose (6') Hose clamps (various) Head gasket (1) Valve cover gasket (2) Fan belts (2) Radiator hoses (2) Heater hoses (8') Oil filter (1) Oil lines (6') Oil fittings (various) Spark plugs (12) Distributor cap (1) Pints and condensor (2) Plug wires (1 set) Wiper blades (1 set) Alternator (1) Regualtor (1) Wire (various) Fuses (various) Fusible link (2) Battery (1) Battery cables (2) Starter and solenoid (1) Thermostat (1) Thermostat housing gasket (1) Carburator rebuild kit (2) Throttle return springs (2) Air filters (2) Exhaust header (1) Intake/exhaust manifold gasket (2) Carburator gaskets (4) Header to exhaust system gasket (4) Radiator (1) Radiator cap (1) Dry Tires (4) Wet tires (4) Wheels (4) And I'm sure I'm missing something. BTW... NOBODY ever has all of these spares at an event. ------------------ ---------- John Coffey johnc@betamotorsports.com

Might as well have a shop go through the head. There's not much of a difference in the cam profiles so just get a new stock cam. If your 260Z still have the stock Hitachi flat top carburators I would replace them with a set of round tops. Contact Scott at Z Therapy: http://www.ztherapy.com. ------------------ ---------- John Coffey johnc@betamotorsports.com