John Coffey

The cage mounting points do not have to hit the floor pan for SCCA but NASA tech might require it based on: 15.6.13 Mounting Points The roll cage shall be mounted to the floor area of the car in six, seven, or eight points. The cage shall not go through the firewall. The seventh and eighth points must attach to the firewall or front fender wells. All cage attachment points must be mounted to plates or a mounting box (plinth). Generally its a good idea to tie the mounting plates into two different panels on the car.`Your cage builder makes a nice cage and the mounting plate he built will work just fine in a rollover. Below is only my opinion and not a criticism of the cage or the builder: IMHO, I would extend the mounting plate on the rocker panel to the floor. This ties in an additional panel in the monocoque and may help with a side impact.

Pocono.

Yes......

There are generally no structural integrity issues with the tire when stretched. The big issue is popping a bead under lateral load or from pot holes. The tire pressures you'll have to run to prevent bead popping will significantly reduce grip. To get the best performance out of a performance tire it should be mounted on a rim that is equal to to or 1/2" wider then the actual tread width measured from tip to tip of the wear triangles.

Stahl is still in business, they've just stopped making the L6 headers along with a number of other slow (or no) selling models.

The cheapest SR20DET swap I've ever heard of into a S30 is $2,500 and that was without an intercooler.

Yup, NLA. I've got a couple sets in a box on a shelf.

Ferodo Green Stuff.

More adjustment. When you turn the rear tire it should stop immediately when you let go.

Shipping is pain in the butt and customers know that. The only people in a transaction that make money on shipping are the shipping companies. I generally offer my customers the option of handling the shipping themselves. Just arrange for the truck to be at the back door of my shop and I'll help load it. In the 9 years I've been doing this, 4 customers have gone with that option and all 4 had large companies with great rates through FedEx or UPS.

Ding, ding, ding, ding... we have a winner!

Looking at the pictures the balance seems about right. Maybe reduce rear roll stiffness a bit. With these cars you generally want the inside front tire very light in a corner. Helps with traction out of the corner. You as a driver need to relax your shoulders and tighten your shoulder harnesses so you don't lean into the corner as much and don't have to hang on to the steering wheel.

FYI... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/98751-suspension-bolts-inventory

OK... Metric bolts are rated by class, not grade. Class 10.9 is a typical strength for a lot of the suspension fasteners on the S30. Sizes are M8, M10, M12, and M14 with all having a 1.25 thread pitch except for the M14s which have a 1.5 pitch. Tacoma Screw Products (http://www.tacomascrew.com/) have the metric sizes listed above in class 10.9 with the 1.25p and 1.5p. You'll have to buy a box but you can then sell them individually to the members here over the next few years. When you take a Nissan bolt out, measure from the underside of the bolt head tot he end and that gives you "grip length". When you order the fasteners you specify the size of the bolt shank (M8, M10, etc.), the grip length in millimeters, and the thread pitch.

Yes, that's true, but there's something more significant (other then Uncle Rico's van parked on the access road left of center). You would have to be a west coast racer to notice the significance.

Wilow Springs back in 1979 at some Z event: A race at Willow Spring also back in 1979. What's wrong with this picture?

160 sounds like the typical rate for aftermarket front coil springs for the S30. Did you continue jacking up the front until the chassis just started to lift? Noting the total amount of spring compression and "assuming" that corner of the car weighs 650 lbs. should give a ballpark check on your 160 lb. in. measurement.

Take a flat piece of steel and drill two holes on each end so you can bolt it to the deck, across a cylinder, via two of the head bolt holes. Put a chunk of hard rubber between the piston and the piece of steel. Loosen the crank bolt.

Set the engine at TDC and then advance it forward about 180 degrees at the crank. Remove the spark plug on #1. Take a length of 3/8" nylon or poly rope and push it into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Push in as much as you can. Put the socket and ratchet on the crank bolt and loosen away. Once loose, advance the engine a little bit using the bolt on the camshaft and then pull the rope out.

The engine compartment oxidation looks be fairly normal for a 40+ year old car that's spent its life in the high ozone environment of "inland" SoCal. That would happen regardless of mileage. Its also spent a lot of time in the sun as evidenced by the fading on the cargo belts and the seat vinyl. The mileage doesn't matter at this point. Condition is everything.

Your spring rate measurement technique is wrong. To actually measure spring rate you first compress the spring one inch and then compress an additional inch and measure the rate for that second inch of compression. Also, you're not taking into account the suspension motion ratio, the angle of the strut, and the stock bind/friction in the inner LCA bushing. The stock bushing does not turn, it flexes so you have the hysteresis of the rubber adding to your measured spring rate. The front motion ratio is either .97 or .98, I don't remember which. Cheap bathroom scales get more inaccurate as the weight goes up so figure a 5% variance on that. Basically the 270/275 number is meaningless. One way to check your measuring process is to jack up that corner (with the car level to begin with) until the spring stops compressing and the chassis starts to rise. That should happen around 650 lbs (if you scale goes that high). At that point measure the compression of the spring. EDIT: you don't need to measure the weight with this check. Just measure total compression of the spring and then divide 650 by the number of inches of compression and you should be able to come close.

Its seems the default solution is to replace the diff when the engine is running rough.

For those that want to post something like: "My car has a miss at 9,950 rpm, what's wrong?." "My car doesn't rev past 350 rpm, what's wrong?." "My car gets 3mpg, what's wrong?." "I just bought my car and its running rough, what's wrong?." 1. Download the appropriate shop manual from here: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html 2. Do a complete tune-up per the shop manual and then follow the Trouble Shooting section. 99.9% of the time you will be able to diagnose and fix the problem.

You're kidding right? You've got so many other serious issues with the car right now ("I'm running gas out of a gallon milk bottle") that fuel mileage is the last quesiton you should be asking here with your second post. Get the car operating properly first.

Wow! I drive a Datsun 240Z, ride a Kawasaki Z750S, and ride a Gary Fisher +4 Sugar. Some of you guys are wound way too tight. Its just a frackin' car, its just frackin' motorcycle, and its just a frackin' bike. Getting pissed off because someone dared to touch your vehicle with their hand shows a serious lack of emotional control.