John Coffey

Yes, stock brakes. One other trick is to toss the factory stainless shims that go between the caliper piston and the pad and make shims out of .032" Titanium that are the same shape as the pad backing plate with two little tabs on top to hold them in place. One ITS competitor I know made caliper pistons out of Titanium. Very expensive and difficult to make due to the heat expansion differences between Ti and steel.

Tom had cone problems.

Just got off the phone with Toby. His BMW is working perfectly and he was able to lay down a fast first run. He thinks John was coming back and Toby was worried, but John appeared to have over driven his third run. Hopefully no rain tomorrow.

Hawk Blue pads up front, Porterfield R4S in back. Change the fluid often (before every race weekend in some cases) and keep adjusting the rear brakes between sessions. I've done a 6 hour Enduro with an ITS 240Z and we (3 drivers, 3 crew) kept the brakes alive with 1 front pad change, 4 rear brake adjustments, and 1 fluid partial change (front only). Luckily we were required to make two 10 minute and two 5 minute pits stops during the enduro so we were able to time the front pad changes, rear brake adjustments, and fluid change. We were first in our group. You don't know hot until you do a pad change on the front of a 240Z after three hours of racing. EDIT: Getting huge amounts of air to the front brakes is critical. We ran two 3" ducts to each front. One to a sheetmetal can that routed air to both side of the solid rotor and another that blew directly on the caliper.

Weather might be an issue. The prediction for today is passing showers in the morning and cloudy in the afternoon. For tomorrow its possible showers in the morning and afternoon thunderstorms.

An increase in oil pressure or volume should not have any effect on the oil burned in the engine. There's something wrong with the head or the oil control rings.

-8 is fine for a diff cooler. You're not pumping fluid that fast or under that high of a pressure. I normally don't use the factory fill and drain plug openings because it makes a fluid change a pain. I just drill and weld on threaded bungs where I want them. Returning the cooled oil to the pinion shaft (drill and top on top of the housing) helps to cool the shaft and the gears.

FYI.... Nissan Motorsports has one new R180 ring and pinion left. 4.88 ratio 115mm ID ring gear.

It looks like one is an early, smaller ID/Taper arm and the other is the later steering arm.

Spend some time reading... http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/38589-strut-sectioning-faq/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/50944-the-strut-thread-koni-illumina-tokico-carrera-bilstein-ground-control/

A lot depends on what "stainless" is used. The definition of stainless steel is a mix that that contains at least 10.5% chromium. The typical ferritic stainless steel (405, 409) used in exhaust systems, mufflers, etc. has the lowest chromium content at 10.5 to 12%. When you buy a low dollar "stainless" muffler you're getting a muffler made out of the cheapest stainelss steel. Those typically last about 25% longer in use then galvanized (aluminized) steel. More expensive stainless mufflers (Borla in particular) use austentic stainless steels (304) which have a 18 to 20% chromium content and these will last much, much longer then any coated steel. This is why there's a big price difference between shops when a customer is quoted a price for a stainless steel exhaust. In my case, I only quote for 304 (or 316, 321, or 341) materials.

Borla XS.

Flex couplers are really not needed on the S30 chassis. The engine and trans are somewhat stiffly mounted compared to newer cars and FWD vehicles. Make sure your engine and trans mounts are in good shape and use regular rubber hangers for the exhaust mounting.

Driveline has nothing to do with the suspension. The diff can stay in the forward position while you swap out the struts, springs, control arms, steering, anti-roll bars, etc.

Generally yes. There are differences in hub centerbore, rear anti-roll bar mounts, transverse link bracing, steering arms, tie rod ends, and spring rates.

Works as a mass damper. Reduces perceived vibration.

I've got hundreds of road songs. These are some of the current ones on the iPod. Rush - Red Barchetta http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S25Alq_eLBE Rush - 2112 Overture and Temple of Syrinx Jeff Beck - Big Block Jeff Beck - Led Boots RHCP - Snow RHCP - Road Trippin'

I have no personal experience with the GC AD shocks but I haven't heard anything good about them. Kieth Thomas and Chet Whittle from your neck of the woods ddin't like them at all on their ITS 240Z. The S30 really needs a good set of shocks to handle well - second only to a LSD as far as lap or course times are concerned. IMHO, the bare minimum race shock is the Koni single (8610) and I put my money where my moth is (was) by spending close to $10K to put triple Penske 8760s on the ROD.

Racing stripes were originally used to help early race car drivers orient themselves for turn-in and to help determine yaw angle through the corner. Older race cars on skinny bias ply tires always cornered at very high yaw angles and the racing stripe helped the driver determine the angle the car was cornering at. Those old race cars had little steering feel and the tires didn't provide a lot of feedback. Later the striped became a fashion thing.

I traded a PM with John a couple days ago and now its missing from my PM Indox. My reply is also missing from the Sent items. Weird.

Here's a video of Toby in the BMW at our Divisional. The only car faster was Fred Zust's XP Elise. http://www.vimeo.com/12933891

The rear brakes work best if there's a slight drag of the shoes against the drum.

True for the LHD version. The RHD drive version is Dave's own design and looks promising. He's not in production yet and just got his web sites up and running. FYI... he has a long Nissan racing history especially in Super Touring:

For performance number (from the testing or test results I've seen) the Stahl gives the biggest performance gain (area under the curve). I have not seen test result for some of the more exotic 6 into 1 headers made in Japan and I haven't seen any test results from Dave jarman's header.

For the mixture issues you can go one size larger on the jet and then run a needle that has a bigger OD at lower rpm and a narrower OD at the upper rpm. That should help the top end without making to bottom too fat.