John Coffey

BTW... Impact Racing issued a recall for these suits back in March 2009. I'm not sure why the SFI has brought this up gain.

Your first question will be: Do I like driving around in a $85K car that feels like a car from the 1970s? That was one of the pitfalls of the Nissan Z Heritage program. Great idea on paper but it was very difficult sell to consumers who were used to a 1990's vehicle feel and performance. Once the Z enthusiast base that had the money was satisfied there were few if any buyers for the totally restored 240Zs. You comparisons with the GTR and S2000 leads me to believe that you won't be satisfied with a 240Z to justify spending the money.

How much boost you can run is mostly determined by the fuel used and the quality of the engine tuning. You can burn at piston at 5psi and/or run just fine at 20psi.

Looks like John's doing just that and kicking arse.

The most wonderful tool ever invented: http://mcmaster.com part number 4964A34

If its that dirty you might as well pull the rear cover and clean inside the diff.

BTW... I can order just the hardware kit if you already have the bar.

Don't use a Porta-Potty as a brake or any other kind of marker like I did at Thunderhill. Someone moved it between qualifying and the race and I went off at the kink after Turn 9 at 70+ on lap 1.:stupid:

FYI... ride harshness has more to do with tire sidewall height, air pressure, and shock compression damping then spring rate.

The Tokico 280Z HP shocks are another option: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=159124

The ST kit comes with new transverse link braces. For a lowered S30 The rear mounted ARB has better geometry then the stock bar mounting location unless you're willing to space the stock location bar down 1 to 1 1/4". But, that interferes with exhaust system routing out the back.

[never mind]

Below the master cylinder there's something called a "Brake Line Pressure Differential Switch" that will cut off pressure to either the front or rear brake circuit based on a pressure differential of 185 to 242 lb. per sq. in. The valve will shuttle towards the low pressure side cutting off any flow. Improper brake bleeding will throw this switch and cause the problem you're experiencing. Speed bleeders make it worse because of the spring pressure that keeps them closed. You need to remove the speed bleeders and either gravity or vacuum bleed all the rear brake lines until you get fluid at both rear wheel cylinders. Then re-install the speed bleeders start your bleeding process.

From rumors in the pro racing community - there is no one Stig. Top Gear uses a number of pro drivers (mostly BTCC guys) as they are available based on the show's shooting schedule. If you watch the episodes where they bring in the BTCC drivers to race things like busses and motorhomes you'll see some of the Stigs.

On a great many of the 240Zs I've worked on, that particular wire gets corroded internally near the fuse box. Look for green or white corrosion on the wire near the connector to the fuse box. if you see that, you need to cut that wire back to good copper and splice in a new length of wire and a connector. Also check the other end of the wire at the fenderwell regulator and at the alternator.

I've had a couple of those sent to me. The single most important thing in ANY sponsorship package is detailed information on how the sponsor will make money by giving you money. Vague information about "Brand Recognition", "Number of Eyeballs", "Great Marketing Opportunity", "Automotive Lifestyle Exposure", etc. is complete BS and gets these form letters tossed in the trash.

Just weld on some proper ID exhaust tubing. The ring is not a structural component per se, it just helps locate the bushings.

Little birdie tells me that the DSP proposal will go nowhere. There are still reverberations from Vic beating the best C4 Corvettes and Tunnel's M3 in BSP back in 2001.

Start you diagnosis and fix from the simple and cheap end of the scale. Remove the wheels, tires, and brake drums and start inspecting there - as suggested above.

Except that the Nissan Motorsports "Garlock" gasket could be cut to fit modified intake and exhaust ports. The laminated gaskets can't.

The "C" is the cam from the 260Z if I'm correct. Again, this swap is a gray area thing - actually, its plain illegal given the update/backdate requires the engine to be swapped as a complete unit. But, based on how SCCA tests cams, the specs will be within their range of error when they measure duration. Its not that critical of a change because the power difference is very small. I sent an e-mail in requesting the change, although I'm not going to build a car for the class. I was much more interested in the short lived proposal to put the 280ZXT on the same line in BSP as the 240Z.

The drawback is the ball joint stud taper. You need to have the early arms machined to match the taper of the later ball joints. That's a gray area and might lead to a protest, if anyone is smart enough to figure it out. A defense might be that the original ball joints are NLA and this is part of a normal maintenance/repair process.

Update/backdate. Very early 240Z arms are shorter by a little bit.

Its a more fundamental issue. Wider or stickier tires require more spring rate to get the most out of them (the tires). Without more spring you're essentially carrying more unsprung weight with the wider tires and not getting the corresponding grip increase. Unfortunately the series 1 cars, even with STBs and a welded in roll bar, are limited to about 300 lb. in. on spring rate. This limit is mainly from the front of the car where triangulated front STBs are not allowed in SP.

Later 280Z replacement OEM 27 spline stub axles do not have the sheet metal backing plate. If the stub axle nut was torqued properly and then backed off, there's a problem with the threads on the axle or the nut.