Unkle

Interesting topic ! So these will have 4 hole, later version - what mounting hardware style will be included ? The early versions had only 3 holes in the trim rings as you may already know. I have a set of these but I'm a bit leary of installing these . Best of luck , I'm interested in the outcome and may order a set from you .

John, can you explain / describe the change regarding handling with an LSD , or is this more of a racetrack need than regular weekend dry street tooling around ?

I am having gear change issues . Frequently at a stoplight and in neutral , I find the trans is locked and won't shift out of neutral into gear without a big fight. Also the third to fourth shift can be notchy unless done slowly. Can this diff mount help ? The car is lowered 1.5'' with koni adjustable shocks.

It's been a few years now since I've taken ownership of my '70 Datsun Z. I can't tell you how much a gear ratio change has improved the car. I went from around a stock 3:4 to 4:10 rear gears . The car is now ''awake'' and lives right in the best powerband/rpm situation. I have a 5 speed from around a '78 280z . A single 2'' Jaguar SU carb with a Crown Maunfacturing turbo kit , period correct . This car is now a real fun street car ! Do you have any single upgrades to share ?

I bit the bullet - a hundred bucks from my Canadian Kia dealer . Will submit results when done for my '70 hatch .

This might sound stupid , but what about the effects of a bad batch of gas ? Your original post suggests a possibility of a winter gas issue . Plugs will still be brown from previous use with good gas , masking poor octane consistency . Ever run Seafoam product ? I don't know , my 2 cents .

'' because of a faulty ignition switch '' ??????? These switches are being turned enough by heavy key rings being jostled , thus disabling the airbag , or turning the engine off in vulnerable situations . I don't understand what you are trying to point out here ? Are you saying I'm wrong ? To me it's not just the switch , it's the driver more so .

That ''poof'' of brown at impact is rust off of the Belair metal - I wonder if a rust free car would do any better ? The lawsuit is about failed ignitions - turning off at the absolute worst time , not crumple zones btw .

Yep things go wrong if it can , it will . You should see the boat anchor of things hanging off of key rings these days ! Nail clippers,beer bottle openers, ID tags , a dozen other non auto related keys, padlocks, phones, mp3's, assorted metal figurines , a compass, even 3 sets of other car keys. Then they wonder why the ignition assembly gets jammed or worn out so quickly , or in this case shuts off in an intersection ! I would hazard a guess that a small percentage is actually GM 'S fault . The rest of the blame HAS to be put squarely on the driver . In no way will one or two keys turn an ignition off by being jostled by a bumpy road surface . No way hose . :tapemouth

I tried that - I ground the end flat portion of the splined shaft 1 mm , still no go - new nos door panel, new plastic disc , nos handle. I've considered widening the slot of the splined shaft, but any mistake here would be bad news. The problem might be the width of the clip maybe ?

^ Really though , he's needing it to stay ON , not tips and tricks for removal ! I have the same problem , my NOS crank will not go on and stay on , and I know what I'm doing ! I have removed a ton of these in the past to remove panels to replace lock cylinders to many different makes of vehicles . It's almost like the retaining clip receiving slots are cut just shy of where they should be located on the crank arm - argh .

Not to split hairs but the assembly is actually 5 parts - keys that go into a plug assembly , which fits into a housing assembly, which turns a cam , which lastly turns the electrical switch at the end. We'll ignore the steering lock parts. The obvious questions are : the car is over 40 years old, and chances are the entire assembly might have been replaced at least once already - so just reading the symptoms as described , I would replace the entire assembly , and before installation I would take the hopefully ''new'' lock assembly to a locksmith to have it keyed alike to the rest of the car locks - unless it's a dog's breakfast already and you don't care. Geez , all in one breath , too !

Please . These complaints have been going on since the automobile and congestion was invented . Except for the bad behavior , each decade gives up a ''new'' sin - these years it's texting and driving, the 80's + 90's was drunk driving , probably earlier too . We just have to expect the worst out there, drive defensively , and get home in one piece .

Drives me nuts - absolutely no interior pics or mention of anything really noteworthy except for the low VIN . Argh ......

I am interested in buying this setup from you as a spare . Iam running a single 2''Jag SU , pics in my gallery . I was talking to a fellow in Oregon when he had one for sale complete in box for 375 less carb. That was 6 years ago , and he hemmed and hawed but decided to keep it. Anyway you can pm me or reply through this thread for more details !

Along the same thinking with some North American ''youts'' , how about that great new ''knockout'' game ? Here , the hero blindsides an unsuspecting innocent person , say at a subway or sidewalk , and smashes him/her in the head with the best punch they can muster. Time to take the XBOX away .

My guess it's the alternator bearing(s) . Hand check that the pulley turns smoothly without the belt installed. Just my brand new 2014 2 cents worth - even if Canada don't make 'em anymore !

Love the story with the pic of fred and the car ! Needs to be restored with the correct factory colour . Ik ken niet slaapen - sorry for the crap spelling - parents are Dutch and only spoke hollanse in the house and at church .

Bart it is original . Yours is an early cap with no handle , you even have the rubber drip strip still . Your chain is missing . The last pic is of the mid 71 and up replacement .

So now this car has a ''rebuilt'' status ? I guess you take real chances shipping anything .

Hi Pete I'm in Victoria with a Jan 1970 build date of 00538 ! Where did you get yours , and can we know the VIN to see how close they are ?

firedan - why buy new locks when you just need keys fitted to your existing locks ? Please just phone a decent locksmith that still does cars in your area. No I won't quote pricing - but one call, half hour's labour , 2 keys later- done. I am a locksmith so it's free advice from a pro !

Thanks gents so far , is there going to be a difference with the plunger rod ( for lack of actual part name ) , and possible firewall holes ? :paranoid:

I don't know - I'm asking ! Research shows 8'' 280 booster works without major issues maybe , but without really knowing . Help please !

I need the definitive answer for a brake mod that is nearly complete ! The car : 1970 240z The master cylinder : Wilwood 1'' The calipers : Toyota SW12 4x4 with stainless braided lines etc. The rotors : vented 300zx So these are on , new , 30 miles . Booster is stock 1970 , obviously needs help - brake pressure needed is a bit too much for a snappy stop - still ok for regular driving mind you , but needs a quicker ''response'' . Is there a ''nearly bolt on'' solution using a 280z etc. part , without having any fitment issues with the clutch master etc ? It seems each car is going to be different as each mod is different . Thanks for any educated / first hand experienced responses !