Unkle

Up here they can go over $750.00 polished , not bent, with the caps . Really hard to come by , why sell ? Good old school stuff should be kept for later !:pirate:

You forgot your '' smilies '' in your last flame ............

If you have your ignition assembly removed from the column, look at it around the cap area ( cap = the on/off/lock/access round stainless part ). You will see 2 or three small roll pins . These have to be removed correctly by drilling a small hole right next to them , and pry them up with a sharp scratch awl or such. Then the whole plug assembly will pull out of the housing . Then, replace and reverse the disassembly. About 10 minutes for an experienced person or locksmith..... don't attempt if you haven't done this before , as you can butcher it easily. Let your buddy do it ! :classic:

Wierd ! I guess the last few Scottsdale auctions had the reserve option - probably a thing of the past now . I definately remember seeing them remove ''reserve'' on a few cars to sell them !

I admit I like watching this show. Hey Montoya , are you sure there's a '' no reserve '' on these cars ? I've seen the bidding come close to reserve, and the owners remove it to sell . Imagine starting a '60's Kentucky Special Corvette at no reserve , or any one of Reggie Jackson's cars with no reserve ! Yeah , it's all glitz and booze and money , kind of like a fancy car wreck- you just gotta watch ! I like the English guy's preamble on the Italian cars , those beautiful Ferraries and such .... , and I especially love the sound some of these machines make - the whole crowd there shuts up and listens !

Friggin phone number right on the add. Yeah, I know, phoning is so old school..........

Did someone think just to ask the seller ? :rambo: I just phoned him, he said NO not a turbo , mistake made by him , selling the car for his brother , car is sold .

You've now fully explained what's involved - I was STILL not sure if you supplied the actual red lenses , or just the plug in lights . The description got convoluted in my brain I think . Please give me the mailing particulars . Also, a stand alone ebay style pic would have nipped this whole 'half flame' in the bud , no ? Do you take paypal ? Regards, dummy from up North.

Not trying to flame you, can you then explain the cost of $225.00 ? And that's with a ''core'' exchange ? Holy crap , am I missing something ?

Will these fit a really early Z without mods ? Are these '' plug and play " ? I'm interested, can you pm me ?

Yes you are correct sir ! dAt-sun , never the american ''dot - sun ''. Celeeeca , never '' selika '' like the americans say. Roooof , never '' ruf '' or whatever that word they say ! 240 ZED , not zeeeeeee . And so on , eh ? :rambo:

Time to move out ! At 20 (happy birthday) you should consider getting your own place . You'll look back and think this was all so trivial , and then think crap, my rent is due tomorrow....... . Sorry to Judge Judy your butt , think of it this way : You are getting nit picky with your family , and expending too much energy on what everybody else in your family does and thinks . Things WILL change , but only if you bugger off and find your own place !

Since I don't know Tyler's abilities / age / competence etc. , any advice dealing with possible hot parts is given as carefully as possible ! Enrique , you putz , you just repeated what I said using twice as many words ! I've come across several twisted cam drivers , putting the timing out just enough to cause those symptoms he described . Oh, but I bow to you using the word ' bakelite '. Wow .

CAREFULLY remove the electrical round 'switch' off of the back of your ignition assembly. Maybe even disconnect the battery cable first to prevent shock/short. Look at the way this switch works. That slot you see could be worn, or the cam that drives the switch could be bent , or the 'switch' could be shot . Replace it if you can find one . Remember to 'time' it correctly with the cam driver , or it won't work . Let us know !

Hi Victor - I've just purchased a 1967 L520 pickup , are there any websites / clubs that I should know about ?

Doug , what did you think ''reversible'' means , other than the obvious , unless you think that you could put the key in both forward and backwards? No flame intended , but it's true , your car was assembled with ONE key to fit all locks for the last time ! Your '73 is too late a model to have Datsun mix and match really early locks with your car. Say it with me : ONE KEY,ONE KEY,ONE KEY . I know it's hard to let it go .......... again , ONE KEY,ONE KEY. Say , it's getting easier , isn't it ?

Hi Montoya - the ''plug'' is what you slide the key into - it's an industry term - nothing electrical . Otherwise known as a ''cylinder'' that is held in place in the ''housing'' by roll pins .

Actually you can remove these screws by carefully tapping them around counter clockwise with a punch . Then to re install I cut slots in the heads, and spin em back in . The ignition plug assembly is held in by a few tiny roll pins that can be carefully removed , and the plug can be replaced with a new setup in reverse. You fill the drill holes next to the roll pins with lead fishing weight bb's for that ''factory'' look !

This may sound crazy, but you have given anybody that sees your picture of your keys a copy all of their own ! One of these even has the code on it! Your ''friend'' can now obtain keys , and take your car , no b.s. :pirate: Anybody else want to give up their car keys to anybody ?

You can still buy these fuel door locks for under $40.00 usd from one of the suppliers , I just can't remember which one , maybe Vic Brit ? They are listed in the cat, and I phoned and checked not that long ago . Have them set to your existing keys by a lock- smith . This is a good way to keep that rare early fuel cap from being stolen ! ( or save that rare early plastic twisty knob ) :classic:

I'm still hurt , and I don't think I'll be able to get over this . Alright I forgive you. Now to mention a worse bastardization , my 1970 Z is fitted with GM door locks ! This type of lock uses a sidebar , so no one's Datsun key can be ''wiggled'' to try open the door !

Dave , carefull ! I said '' keyed gas caps '' are aftermarket , not fuel flap locks ! I don't think it could be clearer . Second , I've been locksmithing for years, and in 90 % of the case Datsuns in North America made POST 1971 are keyed alike per car. Why would Datsun / Nissan cars have a single key code , found on a tag , in the glovebox ? Please try to be more accurate , as I'm trying to help and not start a stupid flame war over stupid keys :tapemouth .

Hey Rick - Your car should have one key to fit all locks , including the gas flap lock . If you have a round lockable gas cap assembly it will be an aftermarket part , with a seperate key. Yes , only the earliest 240's had a seperate, single sided key for the ignition ! Trust me you guys , ALL Datsuns made past January 1971 had ONE key to fit all locks , a double sided key . Datsun changed the single sided ignition assembly because you could pull the key out in the ''on'' position because of wear on the keys and wafers inside the lock plug . A rare option is a keyed lock on the gas cap door , and on the post January '71 cars they could be set to the existing ignition keys , allowing only ONE key to work the entire car ! Anybody with two different keys have had the locks replaced , and never set back to the ignition key, or vice versa .

Your ignition key '' MZ 12 '' is cut on the incorrect blank . This blank is meant for a Mazda ! I've seen these keys for sale on ebay that you've mentioned , they are real ''Datsun'' blanks , just not real early ones with the black inlaid background . Your ignition and doors and hatch should all work with one key , so I'm assuming the ignition was changed at some time . You state that you have a fuel lock as well ? That's a nice option ! What year is your Z car ?