Unkle

^ This is what I would make out of stainless for repro sets from zccjdm.com. Has anybody bought these yet ? Any reviews to share ? :paranoid:

Thanks Ed ! Does anybody have further info on these for good fitment / quality issues ? I'm still open to purchasing real nissan ones from someone here as well .....

O.K. I will come clean and say I got caught up in wanting these . The first pair I bid on 3 months ago to around $600 , won, and got screwed by the seller who disappeared (From Mexico) AFTER I paid for them. So when I saw the second pair , I was outbid past $765 ish and lost. Suddenly ''another'' seller had them up again with the description changed that read " I will not sell to Australian or Canadian bidders anymore unless you contact me first '' yadda yadda because of some perceived trouble . So I diligently contacted him , questioned him to bid again, with the seller accepting . So I bid on the ''third'' set again , and was pissed to see them go past my absolutely stupid bid of around $1200 . So I smell a rat , but now have given up trying to buy these on ebay. :mad: My open offer to anyone here : I am game to buy a repro set of covers for a reasonable amount . Just let me know either here or a PM .

Really ? Just a quick search on Ebay will give you that potential dollar value . Here you fish , get a bite , and seem to throw it back by responding to a '' higher thought level '' . My response would be to deal with your first honest offer from one of the members here that you now have . No this isn't an attack , just a gut reaction . To the purist an original radio in nice shape is worth whatever he wants to pay , and to others a radio from the 70's isn't worth the effort to throw it away !

5THhorsemann , you're mean . Carefull it might turn someone on....

I've never regretted the previous owner installing a non fibreglass edpm? dam. The parking bump stops here are 7'' plus and I've crunched into them several times with no real damage other than some paint work ! Most new low cars are built with these but they look cheaper than mine. You know, that ''crunch'' sound when Grandma knows when to stop pulling up at the bank........

Heh heh . Yup , off site maroons are free shots !

Someone link it for us...... Looks like a great resto project, and an 11/69 build date ! Item # 120644876035

I had wented to the craigs list ad , but the moment I finded out he boarded the engine out , I didn't likeded it anymore.

LALALALALA I'm not listening ! Wasn't it just summer a couple of weeks ago ??

Don't be sorry about it - I have a problem with this ''peave'' and really should not point it out ( grammar and spelling ) all the time ! You seem like a good kid , how's the car coming ? Any fix yet ?

No slight on Zkid here really, my niece and nephews all communicate this way as well . My wife and I speak to each other in a series of clicks and grunts ( over 26 years together ) and we can understand each other ! But to come to a forum and ask for serious advice by using ''thumbspeak'' drvs me up th wll . :tapemouth

OMG Please quit the textspeakandspell it drives me up the wall Good luck with your car though......

Shot in the dark here, but how about replacing the ignition electrical switch ? This is the round plastic electrical switch located at the back end of your ignition assembly on the column. It's driven by the key turning at the other end, and may now be loose / worn enough inside to make partial contact . Just a shot...... P.S. Your antenna is also powered through this switch as well ? Will it go up when you turn the radio on with or without the ignition in the ''accessory'' or ''on'' position ?

+1 Arne . As well, M , N , VH , X , Y with 4 digits to follow. Also if codes were ever found, they are 90% of the time on the passenger door lock . Either on the lock housing or the ''pawl'' that operates the linkage.

Zed head option 2 = replace ignition cylinder plug assembly. AZMarty yes that's the code , usually starting with an ''x'' .

Locksmith job . You really aren't saving time / money by DIY. Do you have correct replacement door caps ? Alligator cap remover ? New , keyed to your key ignition cylinder ? Wafer kit / springs / experience to say whoa , not needed/needed ? If you jam a key in the ignition , do you know how to remove without destruction ? Etc Just some questions/thoughts.......

That's why a combination of new code cut key AND new ignition cylinder would work better in your particular case ! I still can't believe the amount of keys people have on their keychains ! 10 , even 5 keys on a ring being bounced around on a daily basis takes a huge toll on the tiny soft brass wafers , springs , and pot metal cylinders . Also the codes hand written on paper tags in the glovebox are rarely there after 25-40 years later !

Argh . Your key can be professionally ''read'' by a competent locksmith . This means he/she will measure your key with a micrometer , transfer these specs onto a new key via code cutter , and after testing said key , ask you for around 20 bucks if you bring the car in and park it nearby the shop. You will end up with a key with factory ''square'' cuts, not rounded worn ones like you have now. These ''square'' cuts will allow the ignition wafers to sit and stay in them, thus eliminating the possibility of removing the key while in the ''on'' position. This new key will also work the other locks like ''new'' ! This by far is the cheapest option ! Option 2 is more involved and costly , and yes it does mean ignition cylinder replacement . If you combine option 1 and 2 , you will eliminate all wear and end up with a proper factory spec setup. Always try option 1 first as this really does work most of the time, and is by far the cheapest and quickest. Yes I am a locksmith with 25 years of ''hands on'' experience . The above is just advice, take it or leave it the way you or your budget see fit .

Any car that isn't catholic - oh I guess I went there ..........

Uh , yeah ! Especially anything bought at Canadian China (Tire ) ! And , there's more to Canada than the East . Come West young man, no real snow , and I bet we could mix you something close to your diet Dew . Oh , our haircuts are better too - no need to cut around a touque ( winter hat ) !

Terrence, the pics you posted are not what he means. Those are a type of firewall grommet you have there . He's meaning ones at least 1/2'' thick with a metal sleeve to prevent crushing , allowing the rubber ends to separate whatever you want to isolate from each other.

Welllllll , he's not really riding the low vin horse to death , and sure it's got wrong parts on it, but who cares ? It's probably the real deal #525 , and whoever gets it can restore or modify it any way they want , right ? My #538 is modified , and I still like the fact that it's a low vin car as well !

Why not go aluminum lightweight at this point ? Stock heavy and wavy seems a step backwards !:bulb:

Heh heh .