ZIII

TomoHawk is absolutely right, DeOxit is fabulous stuff. For connectors, you might try AutoZone. Several months ago I found plastic connectors, with covers, in their U-Fix it section (or something like that). Red packages, in the section that has door knobs/cranks, odd bolts, springs etc. Anyway, these were six-wire connectors, with a male and female end and a plastic cover that fits over both. They only had three packages and I bought them all. Unfortunately I did not keep the packages so I don't have the stock numbers. Did three of the engine compartment connectors since they take the worst beating. Went over to Home Depot, bought some two inch shrink wrap and further sealed the connectors. Now, it will be a pain to get them apart, I am sure. However, in all the time I have had my car I cannot remember ever taking one apart except to install Dave’s headlight wiring harness. So why not hard wire it? Good question…..

Oh my, how could I ever forget the “Land of Enchantment?” It is but 2 miles from where I sit. All the things you say, weather wise, about it are certainly applicable to El Paso, except we don’t rank near low enough in education, health services, living standards, and not to mention, **** fighting which is illegal here but not there. Which is really why you see so many Texas plates in New Mexico. Then, of course, from here, in order to get anywhere, one has to get by New Mexico.

We who exist in El Paso don’t look for excuses…we make them. It just so happens that my manicurist lives in Denver; my tailor in Chicago and Gary is stuck in Phoenix.... Of course, if I wanted to live in heaven I would move to Oregon.... with my trench coat, umbrella, bailing-bucket, water-pump, galoshes, and sun lamp…..

I'll second that.....Gary is great and I think nothing of driving 400 miles to have him work on my car.....

Warren, The driving lights on the Z are PIAA 60 XT series, model 6252. George

Warren, Thank you for the compliment. I can assure you that I am not an expert on fog lights. I am, however, the beneficiary of my own experience. If you live in a geographical area that really requires fog lights then you should get a proper set. While in Belgium, I went through a successive series of lights with water getting in the housing, lenses getting fogged over, rust developing in the reflectors and little light cutting thru fog. Like many other folks, my motto was how little can I pay to get an acceptable outcome. Wrong thought process. But it seems like I always have to re-learn this lesson. Most folks are not confronted with such adverse weather conditions and put lights out in front because they look cool or make the car go faster. In Europe you can get a ticket for running your fog lights when there’s no fog. Imagine that here? Anyway, I digress. Fact is PIAA are great lights and well worth your consideration. Jump on corvette forum and do a search and you shall find many more praises for such lights in both fog and driving format. My vette lights set me back $240 but on many a night driving through the Belgium countryside I would have happily paid double and would have been thankful for it. On another note, there is really no such thing as a driving/fog light. It is one or the other. There are some sets made that are both but they have two housings/reflectors and two different bulbs. Attached are my current PIAA driving lights… as I mentioned, they are not mounted in the ideal spot but have replaced my fogs which were mounted on the underside of the bumper. Also, I have included a pic of the relay, which is in white. The two black relays on the left of the PIAA are from Dave’s headlight wiring harness.

There’s a difference between fog and driving lights…. Fog lights should be mounted as close to the ground as you can get. I hang mine down from the bumper and if I could get them lower I would. If you have a front spoiler, or you are thinking of getting one, you might want to consider putting them in there as some spoilers have slots for lights and these are usually well spaced apart which is good. For fog, low is best. Driving lights, on the other hand, are usually mounted higher, either above the bumper or inside the grill. I lived in Belgium for seven years and fog is an almost daily occurrence in the country. As a matter of fact, EU law mandates that you have a proper rear fog light (red) as well as a First Aid kit, fire extinguisher and safety triangle. I went through Bosch lights (pretty mediocre) Cibie (better) and Hellas (pretty good at the top of their line). It wasn’t until I rode in a friend’s car one night when I realized what fog lights could do. His lights were PIAA. Next day I went out and bought a set and let me tell you they are absolutely fabulous. I put them on all my cars. The others pale in comparison and capabilities. Besides the obvious benefits of light projection, the PIAA’s come with a more substantial relay and wiring set-up. They are not dinky 18 gauge wires etc…commonly found on most other light sets. It is just a quality product. The one drawback is that they are a bit pricy but they are, IMO, the best and well worth the extra money. I now have a set of PIAA driving lights (I now live in El Paso and there’s no fog here) that I placed in the same holes as the fogs underneath the bumper. Not the ideal place, but I wasn’t going to put any more holes in my bumpers. The PIAA driving lights are also phenomenal!!! So, I would recommend that you do some research. Some folks will jump in here and they will have their recommendations but do give PIAA a look and consider them. You will not regret it.

The rules in Texas are pretty much the same, I think, as in Washington. We can run vintage plates as ordinary plates and they have no limitations as far as driving distances or frequencies of use. The plates just have to be approved at any local DMV and they cannot be altered or touched-up. So, I just waited till they were approved then I carefully touched them up just to make them perfect. Ebay, for me, was the best bet... I checked several specialty places and most sets were upwards of $70.00.... I got these on Ebay for $20 delivered.... Took me two or three weeks to find what I wanted but it was well worth it.

Very interesting indeed.... many folks with whom I have had casual discussions with while at B-J's have suspected and have inferred the same thing. One hears this pretty regularly as you walk around. It has always been amazing to me to see what we ordinarily would consider an average car with somewhat loose documentation get hyped up and sold for an astronomical sum. But then again, we are at a “show” and hype is the name of the game not necessarily common sense. One sees, on a pretty regular basis over the four day auction, cars which can be readily found on Corvette/Classic Car trader selling for two, sometimes three times what they are remotely worth. I have always attributed this to fools with too much money who really have no clue what they are buying. It appears there are plenty of them…. Regarding the manipulation of the auction, so what else is new? Least we forget the famous battles of the ‘major’ auction houses of a couple of years ago and the fraud and manipulation that these so-called ‘major’ houses were conducting, this is all part of the game…..

Heck, if someone wants to steal a Z, the key is going to be the least of his worries. It would take fifty times longer to make the key than rig the wiring. I can start my car without the key in less than 30 seconds and it would take me about 10 seconds to get in it. Which is why, I, like many others, install and dream up little stalling and delaying devices and tactics that get activated, as necessary, when we park.

here's acouple of pictures of my original key... hope it helps.....

Suddendly shows up???? I'll say. He must have flown. Given that we had horrible weather all along I-10 from Phoenix to Dallas since Sunday.. pretty amazing. Certainly there can't be two of these things????

Bob, Appreciate your insights on the Z.... That it went for $12.K was a surprise. Didn't make it to BJ this year, was ready to go and on Wed the ice storms came in and the weather reports for Phoenix were none that great. Spent two days last year in the mud and rain and I wasn't going to go thru that again this year just to look.... Anyway, saw that a Triumph TR-6 went for $26.400.... seems kinda high. Did you happen to see it?

Actually, seller should get 11.8K. No? Seller would've probably done better on Ebay.....

I wouldn’t hesitate one second in putting in relays…. As Jim & Will have already said, it is cheap insurance. It just makes good sense. I have got both of Dave’s wiring harnesses and they are GREAT. You can check them out at: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=20365 I am running Cibie headlights (60/110 H-4), and PIAA driving lights and the road REALLY lights up plus my dash lights are now brighter. Of course, it doesn’t hurt that I also have a 105 alt but you will cross that bridge soon enough. It’s just that in this case sooner is better than later.

I just love Ebay.... and the imagination people seem to acquire when writing an ad. Rare, pristine, beautiful, are superlatives no ad can be without. The seats? A little shabby but by God its got seat covers!!!! But they’re bidding on it and I know not who to feel more sorry for…. Seller or buyer….

Will, Fine by me..... I'll take the second clock....

As Curtis says, flow is your main concern. If you have a Holly Red top you will do fine with the flow (97 gph) and you don’t even need a regulator as you will probably be somewhere between 4.5 and 5.5 psi. Of course, a regulator will allow you to fine tune things. The RX7 pumps also work really well and they are much quieter than the Holly’s. My Holly is noisy despite the fact that I built a special bracket for it and isolated it with large rubber bushings.

Doesn’t seem like he has done anything to it since he purchased it… not even bothered to clean out the engine compartment. Nice photos for a photo album but not necessarily for selling a car….. Not sure about the paint, did he buff it out or is it just the photo? Something seems fishy to me…

Very nice job.... You may be able to get away with not adding some sort of insulation, however, after I added another barrier it really helped.

Once you get your carb problem(s) resolved, you may want to consider going to a wider gapped plug. I have had great success with NGK (BPR6ES-11). The last two digits 11, is what's important.... they allow for a wider gap and I have mine set at .48.

Thanks Will.... Am still trying to figure the photos out. Never had a problem before... One of those weeks I guess....

And, he's got a 'reserve' no less.... Now that takes guts.... I've been cracking up about this all day.... have showed it to a few folks and everytime I do I am laughing so hard, tears are falling....

I would bid IMMEDIATELY but can't stop laughing in order to do so....