ncz

Mine were a bit more stubborn Will. Used a different method. Had an air hammer with a bit that is used to separate exhaust tubing. Burned everything with a blue wrench until all rubber was gone. One note about the bit on the air hammer, just catch the edge of the outer sleeve. If you try to really go at it at a big angle it will dig into the strut/control arm. It really went quick after trying presses/torches/etc. We even turned a large "punch" on a lathe that fit perfectly, to no avail. Those things were stuck. Never want to do that again, but I will liberally coat all of the new pieces with anti-seize!!!

Mark, I'm not sure of your proximity to the Tampa area, but there is a member here (26th Z) or Chris, who had his car dunked in a rust eating solution that gets everything off the body. I have gone the normal way, strip the car, grind/cut/blast/chemical peel the rust off, weld in new metal. I have thought(while doing the above) that if started anew I would find one of the dunking guys and go that route. That way all of the areas in hard to find places that have surface rust would be taken care of. Of course it eats seam sealers and welting, etc, but those shouldn't be hard to replace. I guess I worry too much about the hat channels that support the rear deck, area over the rear fenders, etc and rust coming back there. And SE'tern cars are more prone to have rust in those areas. I also think that once this car is done(yeah right!!) I don't ever want to have to open up those areas again. Oh well, my two cents. Welcome, you're at the right place

Man they look great, I want those!! Is that guy for hire?

Hey Will, theres that East Coast Z guy in Chesapeake VA. 757-543-8608. Call him to see what he has. Kind of crazy but fun to meet. There was also a member here selling a parts car in Fayetteville, NC. ZDreamer I think, thats right off 95. Don't know whats left of that one.

Marty, how did you get these polished like this. Did you do this yourself? My guess is the angle of the carb side intakes

All of the above are good points. Also about using different solutions for different areas. I didn't want to get media in every crevice on the car. On areas such as inside the rocker panels, inside the air vent channels, inside the front frame rails and over the rear wheel arches and inside the doglegs, I used a couple of products that supposedly eat the rust and leave a finish that you can prime over. I used the Oxi-solve from eastwood and a similar product from perma-tech. I injected it with the same system that Enrique used(I bought it from eastwood, undercoating sprayer). It was messy and get good rubber gloves. Seemed to do a good job. Had to use inspection mirrors and good lights to see in all of those areas. still can't see all of them. I am going to follow with eastwoods rust inhibitor spray to seal it all up. Jim wish I could drive down the road and hang with you, E and Gary to get some good pointers when you guys are getting it done!!

Hey Bob, at least you didn't add fire to the ordeal as I did. A few minutes with the blue torch, all kinds of fire and smoke, roasted the oil in my shock, and then watched a highly frustrated guy pound the bejesus out of that pin. Highly entertaining but relatively expensive. Puller is a much better idea!!

Hey Matt the sun must be out up there, sounds like the Z is getting ready for some more work. Good to see your post, hope all is well. Mines still stuck on your rotisserie!!. Once you turn them upside down, you find more to fix! Let us know how it progresses

Tyler, I used a combination of methods from above. The points about a mess are well taken, and the stuff will get everywhere. I am lucky that I can roll my car outside the garage,so that cuts down on the mess but I have to have good weather to work. I would go with Kennys suggestion about sanding what you can. Still creates mess but not as widespread. Then use the sandblaster for seams or hard to get at places. The air duct inlets on the radiator support, the battery tray area, the hollow areas in the lower cross member, corners, etc. Couple of notes. Get a good water separator. Your compressor will send a ton of water through the lines and gum up your blaster. Use a good media. I used glass bead, it is more money but it leaves a good finish and worked in my blaster better than others(less jams). If you sand and blast you won't need tons of the stuff. DON'T use metal shot, total mess. I have heard aluminum oxide works great also. I tried a silica (sand ) material and it gets real wet and had to clean the blaster out a bunch. Also a fine wire wheel on your grinder will get a lot of stuff off and won't tear up the metal. Good Luck

I'm at the same place with almost the same wheel, what if the lip is not looking so good. I've played with some metal polish and it seems to make it look better. I guess that means they are polished? Can't really tell. Anyone know of rim resto guys(preferably SE region)?

Good one CraigLOL For all the grief we give smokingwheels, I do believe he is earnest in what he is working on, just don't what that is exactly. Will have to say it is entertaining!!

There seems to be some great candidates on that site, wish they had more decriptions. Lots of CA cars, Msnowdon(Michael) should take look at some of those. Theres a nice one in Garys neighborhood

Dealer in Charlotte, NC quoted 184 per fender with Z club discount. That "Don't throw down" is great!!

That may be one of the reasons for the popularity of the new "plastic" blasting media. Local guy told me it didn't build as much heat and less warpage

Ronnie, there is no cure for youLOL If you come up with that one and then the OTHER one, you will get hit with the frying pan. Turn cloudracer on to the 73!!

OK quick question, someone told me that Eastwood rust encapsulator would work well as a weld thru primer. I know you can't have 100% non-rust after welding anything, but will this work or do I have to buy the "Weld Thru" stuff? Any ideas??

Eric, do they have a rebuild kit, usually its just the outer ends and maybe the inner ends and thats about it. Is it out of specs?

Mark, where did you get that setup, it looks great!!

Caleb, been to East Coast Z and it is mainly a parts yard. I met Barry and he is a nice enough guy but I think you can do better. He had some good complete cars there but I was looking at early 240's and didn't pay attention to that car. Sorry. He is very knowledgable about Z's and does have parts scattered about but he and I tried to strike a deal that he later went back on to some degree(long story). Not entirely his fault, could have done better by me. Enough said. Look into the one Steve has mentioned, could be much better for you and not that far. If you need parts after that call East Coast

Steve right, Nisstech are the guys. Good work and don't mind giving out a little advice on the way

Way to go Gregg, Bills right get it wet sanded and post some more pics

Ronnie, your crazy man!! It is fun to watch. Your going to burn the tires off that trailer. If you come up I-77 stop in with your new catch! Do you want to sell the 73 you got in NC? Good Luck

Also Ed, they can get the files off what is left of the hard drive. They have some sort of magic spell they perform on the thing. My computer would barely boot and when it did it was the ugliest screen and noise you had ever heard/seen. I was totally bummed about all of my work files but they got them back, so don't toss it!!! Good luck...OH,,Hey Will, how's it shakin

Looks like a good project to start with, if you need any help let us know and welcome to the site

As Andy Griffith once said, "Call the man Aunt Bea". Take your computer to local repair guru and have them copy what they can from your c drive on a disk(s). At least that way you will have most of your files left on something somewhere. My hard drive did the same and I must admit I am not as good as the guys here with debugging these things, so I was scared I would perform the wrong function and wipe the whole thing clean