ncz

Great piece Arne, I'll be up for one of these shortly. One question, I wanted to upgrade the lights with harnesses that Dave is making. If I go this route do I need to still do that

Its amazing what can get where on these cars. I had mice make a nest in the front frame rail, the hole they got into was smaller than a quarter!!. Even the animal kingdom loves Z'z

Whats the gas going to cost you? If the car is "fairly straight, not rotted" and has most of the original parts, it is definitely 'worth it". Of course your time and fuel will factor in but still should be a good deal. Watch out about the not rotted part, thats what everyone that hasn't been to this web site says about their cars!!!

It's doing the same thing in the PM's

Jerry, usually the Metal Ready will keep the flash rust off for a long time. I have sanded down a lot of my engine compartment(to bare metal) and hit it with the Metal Ready and there has been no flash rust at all. Heck, even where I scrapped off the tar mat inside the car has had no flash rust and I didn't even treat it at all. Good luck, let us know what you are going to do with the paint!!

Thanks for the replies guys, got to work on them on Sunday while cooking some ribs before the race. You know I needed some bones to throw at the TV. I hit them with the rust encapsulator spray can(after cleaning) and they turned out nice. I think that paiint is a little more flexible, so I was going to quit there. Now I think I am going to get the eibach springs from that guy on e-bay, so it was a wasted exercise anywayLOL Well not entirely, got the rest painted also(front x-member, moustache bar) and now on to the bushings. Y'all have a nice day, ya hear

Hey guys, quick question. Was going to paint some suspension parts today. Not going to replace the springs but wondered about painting them with eastwood rust encapsulator and chassis black. Think the paint will hold or flake? Thanks in advance. Go Jeff Burton!!!1

Ronnie, I see more muscle/collector/weird/ strange cars on my trips through GA, than any other state I have traveled. Wonder what it is. My question is how did that Z tow on a single axle trailer? Looked like it was at its max!!!

Hey thats fun stuff Doug. Lachlans right, that took up the whole afternoon and a couple of beers and you didn't even have to mess with the clock!!! Thats a good afternoon in the cold weather!!! Have fun

Whats up gang, I have the underdash supertuner that came out of my car. I had it my first Z since 77. Its the cassett version of the 8 track you guys are talking about(big round dial) If anyone is interested you can have it. Works fine but you have to mount it in glove box, you know, the equalizer had to go under the dash!!! Wonder if my old road trip tapes are still around? Spent alot of nights not studying and making tapes!!! What memories

Hey John, welcome to the site. You'll get all you need and more. Our company has a plant in Goshen, does that count??? Again, welcome!!

He did, my bad Stephen, the ol typing fingers ain't gettin' it today. I'm still baffled by the radiator support lip seal. Mines a 73 and I can't find/remember that one. Will look again

Thats a peach, what an investment. I'll take the 401K withdrawal penalty for that fine example!!

Will, good find!!! Now can we practice on your car!!

Ed, is that paint original? Damn it looks good, motor came out great too. My inspection lid bumpers are the same. The 2" x 1/2" piece could be the seal that runs between the top of the body and the fenders? Maybe?

Stephen, pulled the outer end boots off the other day and my old "Z Doctor" had used the same grease he put in the wheel bearings. That was on the ends I could see. I'll check my manual and see what it says. I'm at the same point.

Hey this is great, that is tomorrow's project(with the same kit) hope it works, haven't busted them out of the box yet!!

Dave, how do I get this to play once it downloads?

Hey Kenny, I'm with you. I thought it would be Carolina and Denver in the big game. Man how did that happen, anyway good way to go out for the Bus, but refs were really frustrating. Made me drink more and not pay attention

Thanks Stephen, your right, you might never find that again!

What kind of engine did they have?

Heres one Loren, how much would you want for it if you sold it right now, gut number?

Mr Mire, Sorry can't answer your question, but what is a terra probe, thats not a "curb feeler" is it?:tapemouth All kidding aside what is that

Hear ya Ed, I drilled out (all the way through) the floor pan support rails to get the support off. I knew that I would get a new floor pan and would only have to plug weld. That was the quickest route. That dang spot weld cutter was a pain!!! I have found though that I'm not too bad with an open spot weld hole and a copper pipe as back up. I can make those look decent. My stitch welding, well thats another story!! You know you guys make this somewhat fun, thanks!!

Hey all, just went through the same thing and had a lot of the same results. Its amazing how an entire floorpan can be shot, but fixed fairly quickly and with OEM type parts. I tried to get Charlie Osbourne to make the battery tray area, said good english wheel guys are dying off too fast!! Couple of notes from my experiences. Had the same effects as Victor. The easy to get to spot welds weren't any trouble, the ones where the drill wouldn't fit were a B%$#. Ended up chewing some out that will require some weldiing up before putting the tray back in. I used the spot weld cutters that have a pilot spike in the middle. Those things went all over the place. Even by center punching a dimple it was still hard to keep those things on track. As Kenny stated , I chewed up a bunch of cutting heads. I think the cutter with the drill bit in the middle is my next choice. Even if a small hole goes through, quick blast of the mig and grinder is easy. Makes a better cut IMO. For replacement of the area(mine is just the size of Victors) I took some heavy tin foil and folded, mashed, squashed it into the area until I had the outline of the panel I needed. I have tried the card board cut outs with mixed results. The tin foil molds easily to the area you want. For the replacement panel I used an old fender(the one with the bad front qtr) and laid the tin foil over the "crown" of the fender. This curve is real close to the curve of the area near the frame rail. A little bending, maybe with a sandbag and mallet, will get you where you need to be. I need to rebuild some of the engine side edge of the battery tray, shouldn't be too hard. Hope this helps.