JLPurcell

Lowes has a decent metric stainless selection in their hardware department.

History? Has this developed over time? Has engine been worked on recently? JLP

Make sure they are 1.25 thread. I used m6X1.25 short/large pan head fastners. If the m6X1.25 will not turn in then Jeff is right someone has installed the wrong size at that point the best solution is to chase the threads with an m6X1.25 tap. If you can not come up with a tap you can take an m6X1.25 bolt file the end to make it slightly tapered and cut two vertical groves in the end and chase the threads. jlp

Beautiful car, do you know anyone who might be able to make you a thin set of ceramic spacers. Ceramic is a great insulator and would give you great results with less material. jlp

Thanks for recognizing my giving nature; it’s always been about doing for others with me. . jlp

Simple solution, I will take the Healey off your hands!

On second thought if you want to keep the externals for some reason, "restored to original", my last post works. That being said I am not sure I fully understand the "restored to original" concept on the calipers. Unless you are the original owner and know differently it is as likely as not that your calipers are not the original ones. It has been common practice for years to in lieu of rebuilding exchanging for rebuilt calipers. JLP

Understand, but at $40 - $50 for the new or rebuilt you can part them out, cannibalize the pistons from the new ones, cheaper than you can "have them manufactured". jlp

Now that made me laugh, and tonight that isn't easy!

In the past new or rebuilt calipers have been an easy find. I believe I have a couple of sets not sure. jlp

If I understand your situation, I would center drill the studs using increasingly larger bits until just shy of the threads then I would chase out the threads with a tap. JLP

Blue, make sure and move both caps back against the clips after installed to make sure you have end clearance. jlp

:ermm:In a push with just the right size socket this works well. I have done it at the track with no block of wood. A vice or press is the preferred method but lack of proper equipment never keeps a good man down. jlp

ditto!

Back in the day I used the stock distributor on my 72, removed the vacuum advance and set it up to the specs in the How To Modify text. I installed headers, Mikuni 44's and was competitive in prepared class. Now for the 70 the last setup for it was a MSDS system firing off of the flywheel. Both were effective. jlp

It seems like I have read a lot of negative experiences of members using the Petronix set up. jlp

You could also pull your spark plugs and take a read. White-lean, Black-rich, you want a nice light reddish brown. jlp

If you get a chance to visit it tell it I said hello! Seriously, if you get by let me know how it looks. Photos are great but nothing like an eyes on inspection. JLP

;)Thanks, Mark I am starting to see the light:bulb: at the end of the tunnel. Hope it's not a train!

Hub puller, penetrate, and after you apply pressure to the hub a sharp rap with a mallet on the head of the hub puller center bolt should do the trick. jlp

Welcome back Chris. jlp

Overall very informative, thanks. The dual point distributor I have came off a 1973 manual transmission car and is purely mechanical advance. It must be an aftermarket performance distributor. jlp

Flash flood warnings once or twice a week for the past month, cold and raining now, tomorrow, next day...........

Can someone else weigh in on this. I am not sure what the advantage was of dual points but I believe they were considered superior to the single point distributors. jlp

I have an extra 73 distributor. It has the plate as well dual points. It feels solid and tight. jlp