JLPurcell

You did state that it was a 1972 in your original post. JLP

Welcome, and make use of the limitless knowledge held by the members of this site. JLP

Good luck let us know how the drive goes! JLP

Very nice! JLP

Courtesy Nissan www.courtesynissan.com

Have you checked to see if you can still get these parts? I am coming up short on the name of the dealership which still sells a lot of early parts but with a little research on this site you can come up with it. It is located in Texas and they provide great service. JLP

Walter, I don't remember how the Weber's worked but the Mikuni's choke is not a butterfly but increased the fuel flow to both barrels. Contrary to my earlier post that the only thing the single barrels have in common is the fuel bowl, the other thing they share is the enrichment circuit. Which would rule out the choke being the problem with only cylinder number 4. It also would rule out a float problem. JLP

On the Mikuni's if properly set up all chokes work together. When I ran them we simply wired the chokes all together, let the springs hold them open and never used them. FastWoman is correct in that over fueling or unburnt fuel will give you a heck of a headache in short order. JLP

Thanks for the heads up! jlp

First, I would test the simplest things. Check the spark plug wire to number 4, check the gap on the plug and make sure it is firing. If you have good spark at the plug then it could get complicated. Valves or carburetor, as I am sure you know the triple Mikuni’s are like running a single barrel carburetor for each cylinder the only thing they share in common is the float bowl. I could very well be a problem with number 4’s carburetor. JLP

Good luck with your project. You are lucky to be so close to Classic Datsun Motorsports, Les Cannaday. I live in Indiana and my car is currently at Classic Datsun Motorsports, Vista, CA, for a full restoration. Les is a wealth of knowledge on all aspects of Datsuns. This site offers you a large number of kindred spirits for that needed extra support. jlp

I could be, but just remember the coolent has been leaking into the interior of your car and soaking the other hoses etc. The smell is not going to just go away with the replacement of a hose. (at least the interior odor) As for the cooling system, I believe you need to do a good old fasion pressure test on your cooling system. It consitst of putting a special cap on your radiator which has a gauge and a pump on it. You pump up the pressure and it should hold said pressure with limited drop for a specific period of time. If not you have further leaks in your cooling system. JLP

Congrats! Dito on the color choice. JLP

Welcome aboard. You will find this site most refreshing!!! JLP

You might want to go ahead and replace the heater control valve while you are there. JLP

Yes. jlp

Welcome! Nice find. Your are among kindred spirits here. jlp

Robin, I sounds like you are getting some good advice at this point. I did notice that you had asked about the purpose of the brake vacuum booster. It is the early answer to power brakes, it simply uses vacuum to assist you when braking so you do not have to use as much foot pressure. As for the vibration, it does not sound like a caliper problem. I would jack the car up and check for play in the steering rack, wheel bearings, ball joints and shock mounts. A set of rebuilt calipers can't hurt. JLP

How is the alignment on the front of the hood and the hood to the cow top grill? It looks as if the fender needs to slide forward slightly and the bottom of the fender given a little more curve. If you loosen all the fastners for the fender you should be able to slide it forward, take the two bolts out on the bottom and try to give the metal just a little more curve then replace the bolts. The problem is if this was the result of a bad body repair past, it could cause other more noticable alignment problems with the hood and door. JLP

Nice find on the NOS ashtray, I am looking for one myself. Now as for preservation, my theory is it's nice to be able to update to NOS items but the original part took 30+ years to get to it's current condition, don't try to keep NOS items pristine you will end up frustrated. Enjoy the ride! jlp

I'm sure I am stating the obvious but once you put fluids in the cylinders do not put spark plugs back in until you get it to turn over. You don't want to cause a hydrostatic lock and cause further damage to the engine/head. My 72 engine seized while being stored and we could never get it to break free. I finally had to tear it down and go 10 over to clean up the wall damage. jlp

Check distributor for play, up down/side to side. You say that the rotor destroyed your cap, did you check the rotor for damage, inside and out, Next check your crankshaft / cam shaft timing marks to make sure your chain has not jumped time. I definitely believe your problem to be ignition/timing in origin. jlp

Welcome to the site. You will find many a kindred spirit here as well as a wealth of “Z” information. JLP

It sounds like a heater core issue (leak). The odor will vent outside through the air vent system. JLP

Welcome aboard! This is the place where you can just exchange stories or get the best of technical support. When I first signed up I thought I knew all there was to know about Series 1 and 2 Z cars. It didn't take long for me to figure out that I was a neophyte next to some of the members on this site. Good luck and we always like to see photos of your project. JLP