JLPurcell

I am in need of a NOS fuel tank for my 1972 Z. Production date of 9/72, HELP!

Hello to all. Have not posted for a while. Finished the restoration of my Land Cruiser and took a promotion at work which has resulted in very little time for the Z. I pulled the gas tank tonight and was not pleased with what I found. I have been chasing a fuel / carb problem since getting the car back from restoration. When I sent the car out for restoration I sent out many NOS parts. The fuel tank was one of those NOS parts. I pulled the tank to see if there was a venting problem and found that the tank vents were not connected just plugged. I also found that the tank in the car is not the correct tank. I am really disappointed. The bottom line is, does anyone know when a NOS fuel tank can be found. 1972 Z production date of 9/72. Help!!!

How much are you asking? I am looking for a project car, this may be too nice but I would still like to know what you are askinhg.

I installed the replacement pre-shaped hoses from datsunroadster.com this summer and it made all of the difference in the world. Once I re-balanced the SU's the car ran great. It still as a bit of a stumble which I will work on in the spring. jlp

Les, powder coated the air cleaner which did not match the original orange so he then painted it. I don't believe the he would have waxed it prior to applying the stickers but I could be wrong. He applied the stickers in the original locations. I contacted Mike and he said for me to contact Les since he purchased the stickers. I don't mind buying another set I just want to make sure it is not throwing good money after bad. It seems, by reading this post, that mine is an isolated problem. jlp

Has anyone else had problems with Mike's air cleaner decals peeling up on the edges? Les used Mike's decals on my car when he restored it and the air cleaner decals are peeling. I don't know whether it was the decals or the some prep problem with the air cleaner.

Still, checking in now and again. I hope to getting active again in the near future. jlp

I thought I had these purchased. I had asked him about the bent throttle rod prior to making payment arrangements. I was surprised when he said that he had sold them. I guess I should have been more clear in my commitment to purchase. I have a new set of valve bodies put back from the racing days.

I was trying to make a reasonable deal but he sold them before I could make a sense-able (for me) deal.

In the exploded view of a 44PHH it is part #55. It is the valve body for the accelerator pump. It has a metal ball in it that acts as a valve. I have had sets where the ball froze in place due to setting without proper steps taken and had to replace the valve bodies. Last time I tried to purchase from Wolf Creek they said that they were no longer available and without those you are SOL.

I have mixed feeling on this. I have tried to find out the overall condition and the repeated reply is they are in working order just need cleaning. He has acknowledged that some parts are missing. When asked to guarantee that the lower valve body is in working order and I will pay his price (part no longer available making a set boat anchors) he simply states they are in working order. Other-words no guarantee.

I have photos of them and they are on a manifold with linkage and long air horns. They are missing parts which can be a real problem. I had a set I purchased in the 70's took some linkage parts off when I went from the 44's to 50's. When I put the set back together I spent close to $800.00 with Wolf Creek on jets and linkage parts. The valve bodies on the bottom are no longer available and if the valve balls are frozen from setting the are worthless (a machine shop may be able to drill them out and replace them don't know). The point is be careful what you spend on a set, the parts, if you can find them, are expensive you may end up with an expensive set of boat anchors.

I have a nice leather wheel and adapter kit with Datsun horn button if interested. JLP

The bottom and wheel wells were first primed then the under body coating (similar to Mercedes treatment) then painted the color of the car. I wanted the bottom well sealed but body color as it was from the factory.

The build is almost complete. It has been a fun project.

I have not posted since May. I just pulled the Z out of storage for the first time last week. Just in time to put it back in storage. I replaced the tubes from the float bowls to the carb. the others were collapsing making the car impossible to tune. I have been working on the restoration of my 72 Land Cruiser (see post) for the past year +. It is nearing completion. I either need to drive the Z or sell it, sitting is not good for it.

It has been a while sine I visited this site. The Z is still asleep in it's winter cocoon . I have been working on the restoration of my 1972 Land Cruiser and just completed my first year in my new position at work. Busy times. I will try and update this post in the near future. Hope to get the car ready for this years Z Con. JLP

Hello Mike, I have been in touch with Bruce and waiting to hear from him. I did locate a company which offers a neoprene molded part like the original. He just got back with me and says this is the fix. There are two possibilities one for the carbs with a 90' fuel line connection on the jet assembly and one with a 180' connection. The Z's normally took the 180' hose with early roadsters taking the 90' hose. He has both. They are $63.00 for a set shipped. Well worth the money it if fixes the nightmare these have been. http://www.datsunroadster.com/ http://www.datsunroadster.com/PIC_PAGES/PARTS_INFO_PAGES/carb_nozzle_info.htm

My 72 has not stayed in tune since the day I got it back from restoration. The carbs were professionally rebuilt by Z Therapy. Finally the front three cylinders totally died. I just got back from looking at it and found that the hose from the bottom of the float bowl to the jet is thin and collapsing. It is not allowing a consistent fuel flow or no fuel flow. Does anyone have a source for the proper hose? Or other suggestions. Thanks jlp

Adam, I did scratch one of the rear springs putting them back on. The front was much easier once I finished the learning curve on the rear. I will touch it up, and this is going to be a driver. I went to the storage facility this morning and started my Z it is running like shi*. Need to get it home to see what is going on. But I am not driving it enough. I hope to get the Z to ZCon next year. Memphis! The last time I went to drive the Z and noticed it was not running right the hood would not open!!! This morning I loosened the hood bolts behind the grill and releasing the tension allowed the hood to open. I ran it and left the hood unlatched and the put the cover back on it. Did I ever tell you that my son while attending college in Philadelphia dated a girl from Cherry Hill?

Good day today, had the day off and was able to get the springs and axles back under the frame today. All new bushings and new shackles and pins with grease zerts.:laugh: Engine in by end of week??? As you can see in the pics I have not restored the tie rod yet. I did not want the front end flopping around. I will order the ends and new tie rod and pitman arm once the engine is in the frame down on the suspension.

That is the expanded steel rock guard that goes in front of the radiator. Same material as the JDM front grill for the 240Z.

Here are a few photos of the frame back from powder coat. I just finished blasting and painting the rear differential and springs (soaked on the black gloss paint). Will start assembly tomorrow, back to a roller!

New Member!! This link is to the Land Cruiser Club it has more detail and will begin to have much more now that I have the frame back. Thanks for you kind comments and your interest. JLP

I just picked up the frame and parts from powder coat. I as giddy as a 16 year old seeing their first car! I will post photos soon.