JLPurcell

Looking at a 1600 and trying to resist the urge. It is adverted as all original and rust free. $4500. Has hard and soft tops.

I started getting it ready for bed for the winter. I picked up some fuel treatment and filled up the tank. I checked the antifreeze and found it to be insufficient, drained out a gallon and put in 1 gallon of non-diluted antifreeze. The car was running cool so I checked the thermostat and found that it had a cut out in it allowing coolant to by-pass it so I installed a new 180 thermostat. I took the car over to it’s winter home (10X20) storage unit. I put down a tarp on the floor and put the car in, not for the winter yet just to get it out of the way while I clean out my garage. I will be picking it up and installing my updated clock (quartz update by ZClocks) and working on some of the electrical gremlins. I would like to get those worked out before putting her to bed. When I do put her to bed she will not only be on a tarp and under her new BRE car cover she will sleep in a Car Jacket as well.

The deck area next to the bulkhead is as a Series 1 car with no tool box's. The rear area is neither Series 1 or Series 2 the the spare tire area is not recessed into the deck as in the HLS30. JLP

The bulkhead behind the seat on the Series 2 cars is different than the Series 1 cars. The bulkhead and the Series 1 cars have the holes in them that you were asking about earlier (3 holes or 2 holes). The tire changing tools were located in front of the bulkhead on the floor with a black plastic cover over them on the Series 1 cars. Beginning in 1972 (Series 2 cars) the bulkhead does not have the holes in it there are doors in the floor of the luggage area just behind the bulkhead one behind each seat these doors are to tool boxes to hold the tire change tools. The bulkhead does not have holes due to the fact that they now (in the Series 2 cars) are used to form one of the interior sides of the tool box. I hope I have cleared this up for you it is sometimes hard to explain without pictures. Does anyone have pictures of the difference in the bulkhead behind the seats between the Series 1 and 2 cars?

Yes, I just got my 1972 Persimmon Red (110) back from a full restoration by Les at Classic Datsun Motorsports in Vista, California. I am working out a few bugs, to be expected after a full restoration. I did have an early 70 VIN# HLS30-00029 it now belongs to Les @ Classic Datsun Motorsports. It was a fully prepared race car from the 70's and 80's. The car you are working on looks to be a Series 1 car (no tool boxes on the luggage deck behind the seats). I am looking forward to seeing your completed 3D work. I would love to have a copy to frame in the future. Jerry Purcell

The photos as well as anthing else I would post here have all been published in our local paper.

A cement post at the end of a driveway on a narrow hilly rural road. In the first photo the car has been pulled away from the post. In the second photo it is still wrapped around the post.

Sad to say father was DRT, we flew the son to trama center he is alive but critical.

There is a time and place for everything. This was not the place. This is an accident my crews went on early this week involving a 350Z Father taking his son for a ride.

Just found this, great work. Let me know if I can help out.

I received the shift lever from Les yesterday. It is shorter and straight, obviously not the correct shift lever for a 1972 Z. I installed it and it works fine with no clunking from the transmission or popping out of gear. The difference is that the short straight shift lever is approximately .25" shorter from the tip of the ball on the end to the center of the pivot hole than the one from a 1972 "B" box. I am taking a correct shift lever to a local machine shop to have it modified to the specifications of the short incorrect shift lever. Carl, any thoughts? Anyone?

I have taken a look and I am considering the Z Convention but as I look at it that is a long way. This summer I have some serious repairs to do on my house in Tennessee and I don't know how much vacation I will have left at the end of July. That being said I would like to make the show while my car is fresh. I sent you a PM. Jerry Purcell

Thanks for the input. I just got an email from Les, he has sent me the original shift lever he had in the car when all was working fine. When it arrives I plan to install it, only take a minute, and see if that cures the problem. If so I will have to see what the difference is and go from there. I am not very confident about this I just believe that I have the correct shift lever in the car. jlp

Thanks Carl, I will have someone listen to the rear as I back later today just to see if it could be that simple. With all being new I don't think it would be the case. Any further input from you trany guy would be appreciated. I may have to find someone to rebuild this rebuilt trany. JLP

Thanks Bonzi, I will mark it on my calendar and hope to be able to make the event. I would like to know more about the show. Jerry

Tell me more, sounds like a good trip to plan for next summer. JLP

Thank you! Working through some problems I can't let myself forget how nice it is to walk out to the garage and see it sitting there in all of its style and history. JLP

Steve, I don't know how that relates, it may not. Les just said that he had installed a straight shift lever temporarily when the car was first put under it's own power. He said that it shifted fine. He said that the problem occurred after he installed the correct shift lever. One most likely has nothing to do with the other. My guess is that a mistake was made or a bad part was installed upon rebuild of the transmission and did not show up initially. I changed shift levers to a known correct part and it did not change the problem. Just my thoughts at this point. jlp

Marty, I believe he plans to race it. I hope to be there the first time it sees the track again. JLP

Mike, The transmission was a total rebuild from what I understand and at this point I agree with you and Arne it is internal. Les, said that when he first got the car under it's own power that it was fine in reverse. He said that he had an incorrect straight shifter in the car and when he changed to the correct shifter the problem began. I acquired another shift lever, correct to the "B" box inspected it put in new bushings and installed it. It shifts great but the noise in reverse is still there. It is somewhere between a loud knock and a clunk, it is rotational, and it changes cadence with speeding up and slowing down. I can feel the knock in the shift lever but when I place my fingers on the drive shaft just at the back of the transmission I can not feel transfer of the knocking. It is similar to a bad universal but only in reverse and I can not imagine what it could be in any other part of the drive line. Differential? I believe that I am going to have to pull the transmission out.

OJ, It looks like yours would be a one clunk as the part moved and until next reverse no problem. My clunking is "rotational" it clunks repeatedly and in direct relevance to the speed you are backing. Are we talking the same clunking?

I will try to check that out. Only in reverse?

Steve, I was able to find the supplemental manual on ebay and purchased it;) to go along with all of my other reference material. I appreciate your bringing this manual to light. It is interesting that the supplemental manual was published late 1971 yet my 1972 factory service manual does not include the updates on the wiring diagram.

All of the mounts, universals etc... should be new after a complete restoration at Classic Datsun Motorsports (rebuilt transmission and differential) but I will take a look. The clunking is only in reverse and is speed relevant (the faster you back up the faster the clunking). It can be felt through the shift lever but not when you lay your hand on the drive shaft (console and boot out).