JLPurcell

It seems that it would be simpler to terminate the cable using cable swages and a swaging tool. JLP

Do you have a wiring diagram? Is it correctly wired? Do you have power to the coil when the ignition is on? Step by Step? Have you checked the points and condenser? I know this all sounds simple but it should be simple. I will get out my shop manuals and check for notes etc.. JLP

What a difference. Can't wait until I see a set on my project. JLP

I have four sets of near perfect taillights, the only fault being that these strips need a refresh. I had some re-chromed it was expensive and not of quality. I was going to send them out again but will wait to see if this comes to fruition. JLP

Will be waiting to hear from you on this. JLP

Show Us, Please! JLP

Chris, you are probably correct. My 72 did have dealer installed AC. That could have been part of the installation to remove and seal behind the vents. Possibly a mystery solved. JLP

Take a look at your U-Joints, starting with the passenger side and on from there. jlp

Interesting, my 72 had dum-dum, (body putty), from the factory sealing the vent hole behind the emblems. When I inquired about it in 76 I was told that the factory, for some unexplained reason, had started sealing the vents. Anyone have further on this subject? I am now, as I often am, confused. JLP

The Series 1 cars had the vents behind the quarter emblems at some point they started sealing them. I do not know when that was but on my 72 they were sealed and did not vent. Chris, do you know when they started sealing them? JLP

May I suggest the - Z Therapy video!

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In the parts diagram the only part shown in this location is labeled as a "shunt". It indicates that it also contains a fuse so below is the only definition which makes since in this application. I am not sure this is the use but it does make some sense. It could be a constant voltage stabilizer common method back then to stabilize the voltage for the gauges. Without seeing where all the wires are going it would be hard to make any further educated guesses. Does anyone else have an idea? "Shunts as circuit protection When a circuit must be protected from overvoltage and there are failure modes in the power supply that can produce such overvoltages, the circuit may be protected by a device commonly called a crowbar circuit. When this device detects an overvoltage it causes a short circuit between the power supply and its return. This will cause both an immediate drop in voltage (protecting the device) and an instantaneous high current which is expected to open a current sensitive device (such as a fuse or circuit breaker). This device is called a crowbar as it is likened to dropping an actual crowbar across a set of bus bars (exposed electrical conductors)."

One has the shunt directly attached and other has been removed or is not located directly on the speed-o head. jlp

Congratulations and good luck with your project. Keep us posted. jlp

Welcome to the site. You will find a wealth of collective knowledge here. You can search past forums and get answers to many of your questions. You are close to a great parts source, Courtesy Nissan in Texas. If you have specific questions post them and someone usually comes through. jlp

Beautiful from any angle! JLP

Welcome to the site! You will find a wealth of collective "Z" knowledge here.

If you drill and thread you will have to be careful to get all of the metal shavings. If I were planning thread and plug I would take it back to the shop have them prep it and flush out the block before install. jlp Or simply clean surfaces apply a quality sealer from locktite and drive into place.

Nice!

Mistery solved! jlp

If you want to check out the solenoid and or ignition wiring take a remote momentary switch connect to the positive battery post and to the connection on the solenoid when you push the button it should engage and spin the starter, if not the problem is in the starter or solenoid. If it does it is in the ignition or ignition wiring. It's that simple.:bulb: jlp A remote switch is a must have for valve adjustment so if you don't have one pick one up!

The fuel tank for the L24 is listed as Part#12201-E4100 it is listed as being applicable for all two seater Z cars thu August of 1974. JLP

Interesting, I do not have a dog in this hunt but was interested in you expanded opinion on this. I can see your point, I know from past experience that although the trip mks are great for power and through jetting etc very versatile they can be a b****. What you are saying is that the addition of EFI only exasperates this issue. “The gain isn’t worth the pain”. JLP

Elaborate Please!:bulb: