chickenwafer

sorry, but i'm not for bashing people on this thread. That's why I stood up for him- he's always been nice to me.

true, Carl, true

Hyrdacharger, a great little invention. It uses a turbine about the size of a quarter. It is mounted on the intake track on the engine and has the same basic design as a turbocharger, with a compressor and turbine side. The turbine is driven by water (hense the name "hydra") instead of hot exhaust gases. The water is pumped by an electrica water pump that operates on a seperate throttle-circut, which means the pumps speed varies with throttle position. When you mash the loud pedal, the water pump goes into full tilt mode and pushes lots of water throught he turbine, causing it to spin and turn the compressor, which in-turn compresses the intake air (just like a turbo). Then you can route an intercooler as well for added performance. The beauty of the hyrdacharger is gets "free" power like a turbo (without backpressure), but doesn't have any lag because of the electric water pump. Now, the water pump will take some voltage to run, but if you add a larger alternator then it should be fine, not to mention the water pump won't be that big so it won't draw much current. So there is no parsidic lose with a hydracharger. No added backpressure, no turbo lag, and high-rpm-turbo-like effciency. It literally is the best of both worlds..... A centrifugal supercharger I believe would be better. A screw or Eaton-type supercharger is basically just an "air-moving", refered to as displacement superchargers. The centrifugal SC works like a turbo, actually creating boost, just it's driven by the engine. And yes, they're dependant on engine rpm, but with the proper size centrifugal SC you can have power at any rpm range. Most boost near 2K rpm. Not trying to start anything here........ Dave

I would like to volunteer my services to be a moderator on something else, Mike. Let me know what you think.

just because he's a chemist/scientist doesn't mean he has to give a 100 page disertation in his reponceses. I'm a mechanic, but that doesn't mean i have to go into deep detail about each thing. Anyways, don't you think he started quoting formulas and $^!# you would get confused and have no idea what the hell he's saying?

They don't smile because they think you are going to give them a rough time, like most customers do. They are really busy and are usually multi-tasking more things than any human should, which doesn't allow them to show human emotions.

-The sky is blue because oxygen molecules reflect blue light -Dogs chase cars because of their instints to chase all moving things that could potentially be dinner -Your asshole boss won't give you a raise because he's an asshole -Your car is rusty because it's a Z, and the PO screwed it up dumping it's problems on you -you get yourself into jams because you don't pre-plan you steps -you don't get along with your brother because he's a jackass and more than likely you have something he wants and feels he can't get -there is no such thing as too many questions..... -you can't think of anymore questions because you want to see my responces to your first questions and see if they are up to your standards

yeah me too. But for the time being it's the best i can manage......... Dave

of course. good point. You should be a motivational speaker!

i go sit in the car every now and then, and even make my fake "engine noises" and shift. It's a lot fun on a rainy day

oh i thought you were tryen to tell me something, like "end your life while you still can! Escape! Escape!"

i would if i had things to install. Dave broke right now (don't you just love third person??)

technology SUCKS

now that was just mean

faaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaar from it. But I'm working on it, thanks for asking, Will. And congrats on the boy (saw it in the "shout box") Dave

i feel inlightened

I thought you said she does it constantly, not once once a month

agreed. It wouldn't "remove" the gas vapors

because she wants to test your commeitment. She wants to know what you're made of and see if you stick to your guns or p**** out.

that makes no sense tomohawk- wouldn't that add exhaust vapors?? and anyways, how much would all this cost. I know powercoating is $$$$$$$

ok, so i'm bored and have nothing to do, so I figured why not solve the world's problems? Ask me any question you like and I will try my best to answer it. Anything and everything. Dave

zweeeet The ZTherapy carbs are rebuilt 70-72 3 or 4 screw SU's, right? Are they rebuilt to Datsun specs or modified??? Thanks, I'm considering a pair for my 260 Dave

Ken, have you comtomplated a centrafugal (spelling) supercharger? This would combine the best of both worlds, assuming it would work (I don't see why not...). And it would be smaller and more compact. Food for thought- I saw in Road & Track (or MotorTrend, don't hold me to it) Jey Leno's Oldsmobile Tornado with a custom twin-turbo V-8. The twin air-to-air intercoolers were mounted pretty trick- inside the front wheel wells. You could possibly do that with your water-to-air intercooler? It would shorten intercooler piping and make the setup a little simpler and less cumbersome (i.e. pipes all over the place so you can't squeeze a wrench in-between them to get to anything). I don't know how well the air would flow into the wheel wells, but something tells me that if they can support a 1000-bhp+ monster motor then it would be ok. Possibly custom fenders with ducts to increase air flow??? What kind of fuel setup are you running? What size injectors and fuel pump? Just curious..... And, do you estimate with more boost (say close to 20 with a different SC), water-to-air intercooler, custom head work on the motor, a custom cam, stepped up fuel system, and other horsepower-goodies you could see more than 320 or so horsepower at the rear wheels?? I don't want to get into the turbo vs supercharger thing, but I will say I like boost more than no boost, no matter how I get that boost. The best compromise here is a hydracharger, but the inventor is failing to sell it to companies and he has a patent. Thanks for the insight Dave

Ricklandia summed up what I was going to say pretty well- excellent post. My thoughts coenciede with his. If you were living in the south/west or a place where it didn't snow or rain a lot, then a Z as a practical daily driver would be very plausible. But, in Minnesota, it snows a lot and often in the winter and the roads are salted heavily. First off, driving a rear-wheel drive car on snow and ice takes talent, precision, pratice, but most of all- experience. Secondly, driving it in these conditions would spread rust like a wild brush fire. Secondly, rust just doesn't "stop". Rust is basically a bacteria, metophorically. It spreads unless you do something to stop it- and that includes if you just store it in your garage. It won't spread fast, but it will spread. Damp places, salts, and snow/ice further the oxidation process which speeds up the rusting of your car. It would be best to find a westren car with NO RUST and have it Zeibarted (although that doesn't do a whole lot in some cases) to use a daily driver. Ricklandia also pointed out another valid topic- the Z is before the advent of stuffing micro-processors in cars. The Z doesn't have any of that. The 240/260Z's are incredibly simple and the 280Z is only a little more complicated due to fuel injection. SU carbs used on the 240/260 Zeds are simple and easy to tune, even for an amature. You don't need a dignostic machine or countless other electronic gadgets mechanics rely on for newer cars. A good example of this would be my grandpa- he will be 90 this month. When he was 20 I believe, he got a 1934 Ford coupe. He could take the thing apart and rebuild it within 2 days easy. And if anything went wrong, which frequently happend (it's a Ford, come on!) we could fix it easily. This was in the early 1940's. He now owns a 2003 Chevy Silverado and he can't find the hood release hinge on it, let alone the spark plugs. And yes, the Z isn't the most reliable car, but it is like any other car- take care of it and it will take care of you (most of the time ). There are some known Zed problems that should address when looking into purchasing a Zed to see if the PO fixed them or not. There have been Zeds that run like an early Jag and ones that will run until you drive 'em off a cliff. It really varies.... No about the Z being your best choice for your first car, I don't know. That's totally you. But the beater Honda will still breakdown, require tune-ups, and won't get you any dates either. Honda's aren't always what they're cracked up to be. I've seen their engines go at 32K miles because people don't break them in right...... But getting back to the topic, I would advise you to follow your heart, as cheesy as it might sound. Randlandia is right again when he says the Z will gradually increase in vaule as more and more of these rare cars are lost in junkyards due to being parted out or rusted out. Who knows, maybe some day they're be as collectible as a Toyota 2000GT (The rarest production Japanese car sold in the USA that is worth roughly 10X it's purchase price when new). Hope this helps..... Dave

thanks Ken, interesting Zed. I like! I will be rebuilding my 260 sometime soon after I win the lottery and I am juggling wheather to do an NA or turbo engine. Now I have a supercharged L-series to think about! Reading about the current supercharger setups I am very intrgrigued and am now seriously considering it. Thanks for all the great info! Dave