SMW

Yes, there is a 10 day time limit for changing car titles in CA, as well as WA. So you probably do want to switch the title to your name now to avoid hassles when you try to re-register. They do have an option so you can register your car as non-operable for something like $10. This way, the car is registered to you, but you don't have to pay the full yearly registration price until your project is done and you are ready to go. Cheers, SMW

2. damage to rear panel

More pictures 1. Interior

Well, LA is a bit far for me. Good luck on the RB swap, though. Cheers.

Hello: I might be interested in the L24 you've got. Are you anywhere near Davis/Sacramento, CA? Also, what is the general condition of the engine (e.g., running or not, using oil, etc). Thanks in advance, Steve

I am selling my early 260Z project car located in Davis, CA (about 10 miles west of Sacramento). The car is not running, and would have to be towed away. I'm asking $800/negotiable. The car: 1974 (early version) 260Z L26 ran strong, but has not been started in over a year Car comes with dual webers and the stock flattops New Parts: Stock radiator Points, plugs (NGK), condenser, dist. cap. Work needed to get it running: Rebuild/install carbs. Replace emissions, fuel, and radiator lines (old and crumbling) Normal fluids/brake inspection. Body: Straight, with good frame rails. Rust damage to rear hatch, passenger fender, and the lower rear panel. Damage to lower rear panel and rear bumper (face bar) Interior: Newer carpet, seat covers, dash cap. Thanks for looking, feel free to email smwinter@ucdavis.edu if you have any questions

I wrote up an article about removing the cylinder head in the "tech articles" section a while back. Here is the url: http://www.240z.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1504 In regards to removing the intake and exhaust manifolds, I suppose you could leave them attached, and only detach the exhaust manifold to pipe connection. However, removing the entire set up would be unwieldy, and you are probably going to want to remove the manifolds anyway so the head can be checked for warpage -- nothing worse than going through the work of changing the gasket just to have the new one fail because the head is warped. For the timing chain: If you aren't going to mess around with the short block, what most folks do is set the engine to TDC before removing the head, then secure the timing chain with the special plastic tool (from MSA or elsewhere), or with a block of wood. This way, you won't need to reposition the chain on reinstallation. If you don't secure the chain, or it moves, you generally end up having to remove the front cover to get the chain tensioner system back into place. HTH, Steve

Hello all: It is time to get the short block of my L24 rebuilt, and I was wondering if any 240.org members had had good luck with any shops in the greater Sacramento (CA) area. Thanks in advance, Steve

I'll back up EScanlon on this one. To get my 260Z (still for sale, btw) registered as "planned non-operational" in CA, the police had to inspect the vehicle. The local officer went directly for the firewall VIN number described above, so you can be sure they will cross-check all of the numbers.

I used POR-15 on some light rust around the battery tray on my 260, and I am about to do the same for my 240. I brushed it on, because I had a very small and accessible area to deal with. The POR-15 info sheets indicate that it needs to be thinned if you are going to spray it. They also recommend (and sell, of course) a filter to ensure that no moisture is mixed in during the spray process. I would guess that a tap would not be very effective if you got the stuff in the treads, especially once the stuff has completely set. Hopefully someone has used it as a spray, and can give you more information. Cheers, Steve

1. Water Valve This valve shuts off once the engine is at operating temp (somewhere around 105F). Thus, there should not be constant flow through the intakes. 2. EGR In general, I prefer leaving smog equipment hooked up, however, since you have the roundtop carbs on the car, I don't think the EGR system will be hooked up. The EGR solenoid valve has a vacuum line to the rear flattop carb for the vacuum signal, so if the valve is blocked off, or otherwise not connected to intake vacuum, the EGR system isn't functioning. I'd say that the overall approach for dealing with the smog equipment is just to make sure that you don't have vacuum leaks, which will wreak havoc with the way the engine runs. Have fun.

Two more things I remembered: 1. The smaller diameter line through the intake is part of the EGR system. When the fluid is above operating temperature, the valve doesnt open, and this cuts off the EGR circuit. Thus, if you want to keep the EGR system going, you need to split the line out of the thermostat housing and hook up the smaller diameter line at the intake. 2. The larger diameter hose has a different diameter at the thermostat housing and at the intake.

Hello: I had similar questions when I converted my 260 from weber DGV's to round top SU type carbs. Here is what I learned about the plumbing. The hoses are there to help the intake and carbs warm up faster in the morning by running warm radiator fluid through them. I imagine the lines also help keep the intake and carbs at a more or less constant temperature when the engine is warm. The later carbs (found on the '73 and '74 models) had three radiator fluid lines, two through the intake manifold, and one through the carbs. The '70-'72 models only had one line that ran through the intake. Therefore, whoever converted your car to the earlier carbs just connected the thermostat housing to the water valve, since the connection at the carbs was no longer there. To convert to the earlier carbs, I: 1. Replaced the gooseneck with three openings (as shown in the second picture on your site) at the thermostat with a brass nozzle (from Ace Hardware ~$2). 2. The lower hose at the water valve at the back of the engine was threaded, so I capped that off with a brass cap (again from Ace). 3. I removed the smaller diameter pipe that ran under the intake. 4. I hooked the new nozzle up to the larger diameter pipe on the intake. This basically replicates the earlier round top setup. I didn't have a problem for the short time I used it (long story), but it doesn't get very cold here. HTH, and post back if you have more questions.

My 260 is still available. Original ad is at: http://www.240z.org/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1224 The only updates are that I found an air pump and air cleaner assembly at a junkyard that will go with the car. Cheers, Steve

Hello all: I'm 26, and just got married last summer (no kids). I'm a grad student in hydrology at UC Davis. Current Z project: troubleshooting engine problems in my 1970 240Z. Working on the 240 is an excellent distraction from my classes and thesis project. Also, I have a '74 260Z that I have to decide what to do with. It is rapidly becoming the parts car for the '70 (one more bolt won't hurt, etc etc.) My first car was a stock '79 RX7, but only because I couldn't find a Z at the time. Thanks to Mike for all of his great work on the website and mailing list. Cheers, Steve Winter

I checked nadaguide.com just for kicks. Their values for a 1972 240Z (in US dollars): MSRP = 4,106 Low Retail = 4625 Average Retail = 7,575 High Retail = 13,900 Here are their definitions: Low Retail Value —This vehicle would be in mechanically functional condition, needing only minor reconditioning. The exterior paint, trim, and interior would show normal wear, needing only minor reconditioning. May also be a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. Most usable "as-is". Note: This value does not represent a "parts car". Average Retail Value — This vehicle would be in good condition overall. It could be an older restoration or a well-maintained original vehicle. Completely operable. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are presentable and serviceable inside and out. A "20-footer". High Retail Value — This vehicle would be in excellent condition overall. It could be a completely restored or an extremely well maintained original vehicle showing very minimal wear. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are not in need of reconditioning. The interior would be in excellent condition. Note: This value does not represent a "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle *. I think the Nissan Factory restored Z's went for 28k or so. As always, the car is only worth what someone is willing to pay. Hope this helps. Steve

At Mike's request, here is a copy of an email I sent to the 240z.org mailing list: A question was asked regarding cylinder head removal, here is what I did with my L24 w/ E31 head: Tools: The specialty tools include a good torque wrench, and a 10mm hex socket for the head bolts. I found the socket for about $5 at OSH. Any place that sells a good selection of craftsman tools should carry it. Preparation Work: One of the time consuming parts of this job is the removal of the air cleaner, carbs, intake and exhaust manifolds, and fuel lines. Lots of liquid wrench is a good idea, along with a good labelling system for all of the wires and hoses. Steps: 1. Remove valve cover and put some penetrant on the head bolts to soak in. 2. Drain coolant (all the normal cautions). Remove the rad hose at thermostat and heater hose at rear of engine. 3. Set to TDC. I like the screwdriver in the #1 sparkplug hole approach. 4. If you only want to deal with the head, secure the timing chain with a block of wood (1/2" thick, 1" wide, ~7" long, tapered at the end) securely driven in to keep the chain tensioner from moving. A good idea is to drill a hole in the block and tie some wire or rope in to facilitate removal. This step is only necessary if you don't want to change the timing. If you are going to tear down the short block, this step probably isn't necessary because you will have to reset timing on reinstall. MSA sells a plastic tool for this, if you prefer. 5. Remove fuel pump. 6. Remove fuel pump eccentric and cam sprocket (note which of the three timing marks the sprocket is set at). Fold excess chain on top of wood block. 7. Remove the two small bolts at the front, between the head and the front cover. 8. Clean gunk out of head bolts to ensure that the hex wrench can fully engage. 9. Now loosen the head bolts in order (to prevent warpage). Start with the two closest to the firewall, then the two closest to the radiator, next two closest to firewall, next two closest to the radiator, etc. 10. Make sure everything is disconnected, then remove head. Don't pry between head and shortblock, this may damage the seal on installation. This set of steps is taken from a combination of Haynes, FSM, and Monroe's "How to Rebuild..." It should be noted that I am not a pro by any stretch of the imagination, and I highly recommend having one or more manual(s) on hand for this job. Others with more experience may also have some tips on this job.

I ran across another option for rear window clearing on the web: http://www.zspecialties.com/hotdeal.htm It is basically a small electric fan and heating unit that runs from the same wiring that led to the wires on the window. I was going to order it, but I'm still dealing with some engine trouble, and that comes first. Might be an easier way to go than trying to locate a small break somewhere in the 30 year old wire. Steve

Hi Mike: When I lived in Corvallis, I think the landfill/dump on Hwy 99 (Coffin Butte?) just north of town had a couple of haz-mat days a year. If memory serves, you could bring them just about anything on a particular weekend. Might be worth giving them a call. Cheers, Steve

Hey -- small world out there! It sounds like Santa Rosa is the place to find z's, if your find is any indication. Okay, so you most likely have the later air cleaner type. I would guess those holes are towards the very bottom of the cover, facing the engine? If so, (according to the FSM) they are part of a hot air system that activates while the car is warming up and allows warm air off of the exhaust manifold into the carbs until the temp hits 130degF or so and the valve shuts, only allowing air from the snorkel into the carbs. The front hole is where the vacuum motor sits that opens/closes the valve. The other hole is the intake, connected to somewhere (I'm afraid I'm not sure exactly where) on the exhaust manifold via a piece of what looks like flexible heating duct material. As far as air filters go, I'd guess that you picked up one that fits the earlier cleaner assembly. FWIW I have a K&N filter in my stock air cleaner in my '70 240, which fit, but not perfectly. My 260 is still a work in progress, so I haven't gotten around to picking up an air filter for it. For the stumbling, it seems that a tune up is a great place to start. Most folks will recommend swapping in some of the earlier round top carbs for easier tuning and supposedly better performance. I'm rebuilding a set of flattops now for the 260 to see if they are really that bad. Cheers, Steve

Hi Dale: Wow - 30K original miles, have you had it all along, or was it a great find on your part? A great find either way, I guess. As for the air cleaners, the units are generally carb specific. Does your 73 have the roundtop or flattop carbs? If you have roundtops you most likely have the early air cleaner. If you have the flattops, you most likely have the later air cleaner. The early and late air cleaner units are also visually dissimilar. The early units have round intakes (air horns) to the carbs, while the later units have square intakes. As for the connections, on the early air cleaner the attachments consist of (1) the big (snorkel) air intake, (2) the carb vent tubes, (3) the valve cover vent tube, and (4) the tube from the air/smog pump. I think that's it, anyway. For the later air cleaner the number of connections increased significantly due to the new emissions equipment. If it turns out you have the later unit, let me know, and I'll look up all of the connections in the '74 FSM. Hope this helps, Steve

Let's see how this one works out. I'm counting on you techies to keep me on the straight and narrow here

Take two --

Hi Mike: I wish that was the case, but unfortunately the emissions cut off date is currently 1973. So my 70 240Z is exempt, but my 1974 260Z has to pass smog even to get registered in CA. If the current law remains in place, the 260 won’t be exempt until 2003. The bummer is that the car was exempt in Washington, where I purchased the car. Previous owners had removed all of the smog equipment (air pump to EGR) and added the non-CA version Weber DGV’s. As a sidenote, I read some articles a couple of months ago that indicated that CA may re-institute smog checks for the pre-1973 cars. Anyone heard any follow up info on this? Cheers, Steve

I am selling my 260Z project car in Davis, CA for around $1,000. The car ran (on the rich side) about three months ago, before I began the overhaul of the carbs and emissions system in an effort to get the car smogged in CA. I am moving soon, and I don't have the time to spend on this car that it deserves. What the car has: 2.6 Liter L6 engine, stock 4-speed manual. I have flattops and Weber DGV 32/36 carbs that will go with the car. Both sets need rebuilding to do it right. Brand new radiator. The car has all parts except for the air pump, most hoses, and the air cleaner assy. for the flattops. Overall, the body is straight. There was rust underneath the battery tray that I treated/covered with POR 15. Rust has damaged the front passenger fender (hole), hatch (~ 6 inch diameter dent). Collision (parking lot, I would guess) damage to rear bumper and rear panel. I have a straight '73 240 rear bumper that could go with the car. Interior was refreshed maybe 5 years ago by a previous owner. If anyone is interested, let me know at smwinter@ucdavis.edu and I'll send more info and photos as requested. The car is not running and will have to be towed/trailered away. The title is clear, but is registered as non-operated in CA.