peng155

@w3wilkes ... Thanks for your story... what you outlined when you went thru your 71 Z, is pretty much what I was thinking for my 71.. I'm debating the electric fuel pump conversion.. leaning towards doing the conversion when the tank gets dropped.. be nice to have the car start up after a few cranks, instead of having to wait for the mechanical pump to prime the system... Also looking at swapping out the stock radiator, for a newer aluminum one, but it the stock one is still good.. I'll probably go with it for the time being... I've already changed out the stock dizzy for a Malory Unilite dizzy and a MSD 6A unit, and replaced the stock gen for a newer GM alt conversion... I'll probably sit on the stock exhaust system for now, if it works and not leaking.. When Dave Irwin was still on the board, i had him re-build the steering wheel stocks and did the head light relay conversion already, and changed out the fuse box due to the main feed melting issues. I got MSA seat rebuild foam and covers that need to get installed on the factory seat frames, already did the seat webbing.. Besides everything that's already been mentioned, I am going to have to have the springs and shocks replaced.. yeah there is a lot of stuff that'll need to be address, won't know what until I start digging into the car, just hoping it won't be a longgggg list

The car didn't really need any work per say, when I parked it.... or nothing that a 40+ yr old car at the time couldn't have used.... everything worked at the time, it drove good, didn't belch smoke when hitting the throttle, no rough idling.... could have drove it daily if I wanted to... After thinking about it, I may be thinking about which system to prioritize in getting cleaned up and running first, was thinking engine, fuel, cooling, and hydraulics... now I think maybe doing the fuel system first, than followed by the engine, or cooling next. I have a set of Z-Therapy rebuilds on order, and should see those by mid to late summer....

Thanks for the offer, I'd would love to work on the car myself, just to get the experience, but trying to do some of the work alone can get to be real challenging and frustrating... "try and find an old school mechanic local " This is the biggest problem I'm having, most of the old timers I once knew or used to use have retired, and all of the shops work mostly on the newer computerized car, or they say sure not a problem, bring it in... only to find the car has been butchered up, or the job done wrong...

I'm in the Seattle area, I found two shops that maybe able to do the work from a post on a Datsun 311 site, Crown Hill Automotive, and Fisher Auto Service.. "if you tell them you have $10,000 to spend they'll probably find a way to spend it." I hear you on this... I was just planning on visiting both shops, with my to-do list, and ask them to give me a general ballpark quote. I was going to break-up the work into Phases, The gas tank drop and boil, fuel lines being the first thing to be done. I should also add, I wouldn't be against shipping the car off to a garage / shop to have the work done, as long the shop was well know, and within general vicinity of mu location... within Washington.. sure, Oregon... Probably, Cal.. needs to be pretty well know

Hi All, So I started a post in the Engine & Drivetrain section on priming the oil system on my L24 for a mechanical re-commissioning... fancy word for getting the car drivable again after sitting for 12 years or so in the garage. From a 50,000 ft level the following car systems are going to need to be worked or replaced in some fashion... Engine Lubrication, Engine cooling, and Fuel System Long store short, summer 2014 drove the car around for the summer, end of summer rolls around, park the car in the garage, threw the cover over the car, and figure I would start the car up every couple of weeks. That last part never happened, and 12yrs later I gotta figure out how to get the car running again. My automotive knowledge is sort of limited... give the car a tune-up, no problem, change the oil still not a problem, change out the radiator, heater hoses, pretty much any parts swapping not a problem... Where my problems begin are the intimate details involved with the mechanics of a car engine. Timing, valve lash setting. And then there's my age and body factor... I'm not able to bend over the engine bay, or contort my body to get under the dash as I once use to... I live in the PNW and as things are bigger in Texas, things are more expensive in the PNW.. I'm thinking about sending the car out to a garage to do the work needed to get the car running and drivable again, in the most basic function.. start, stop, drive.. I'm allocating a budget of about $10k to to do this, once up and running and driving, than I'll look at upgrading / replacing parts... Do you guy's think a $10k budget can accomplish this? It's been so long since I've done any automotive service shopping / comparison I'm not exactly sure what to budget.

@Zed Head "Should be fun times!" Yeah, I'm pretty sure your idea and mine idea of a fun time is very different

Thanks, after thinking about it, it did occur to me that making sure the cylinder walls were coated enough to prevent any scoring, wouldn't be accomplished by priming the oil system, So I will probably do as you suggested, fog the cylinders with Sta-Bil fogger, and pour a bit of oil into each cylinder, let it sit 24-48hrs or so and turn the crank by hand to get the pistons moving freely again. Thanks

Question, doing a mechanical re-commissioning of the 240z The car was running, and driving when I parked it in the corner of the garage, threw the car cover over it for the winter, and left it.. that was 14 yrs ago... Well life work and everything else took up my time, and here we are... So stage 1 is to drain the engine oil, and prime the engine oil system and get the oil circulating without cranking the engine. Is there a way to do that by hand? I thought I might be able to set the engine to TDC, pull the distributor and spin the oil pump drive gear through the distributor hole... but after thinking about it the oil pump drive gear is driven by the crank shaft(?) correct? if so that is a no go So would my only option be to pour some engine oil into each of the spark plug holes, and rotate the crank shaft by hand to get the cylinder walls coated with oil, before cranking the engine with the starter? And don't get me started on the fuel and cooling system

Thanks for the info... I did do a search on craigs list and found another place up in Snohomish and dropped them an email already.. I'll give Zspecialties a jingle as well

Hello Folks, Can anyone suggest a source where i can purchase a used L24 long block for a rebuild project... I'd like it to be somewhere in the Seattle/PNW region so I can go check it out in person as opposed to buying something over the internet sight unseen.. Thanks

Jonathan, Thank you very much for your message... Yes you are quite correct on your advice of resisting the temptation to take the car apart beyond weekend or maybe 1 week projects... I sometimes tend to start on taking something apart, which then leads to something related item or system, and than I'm thinking "That looks (take your pick) worn out, old, dirty.... and i start working on that other thing... So yes I'll have to make sure I don't start tearing into something before what I started is completed... The suspension is going to have to get replaced, the previous owner lowered the car by cutting the stock springs, so I'm going to replace the springs, shocks and tires at all four corners as well... Thanks for the tip on the Red-Kote I'm still getting use to retirement... My biggest worry pre-retirement was how was i going to fill all the new free time I was going to have... I think cleaning up the Z and getting it ready for next summer will help with that a lot.... Thanks again

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Hi Folks, Two new questions for you.... 1) My plan is to drain and drop the gas tank, service on the tank it self has never been done in the cars 53yr life... I dropped a 1/4 inch diameter tube into the filler spout and drew about 1/8 of a cup of liquid from the tank. What I drew from the tank looked Ok.. no chunks, or black goo in the draw or around the tube... Which really doesn't tell me squat.. I don't plan on being able to drop the tank for service until probably later this summer...most likely around July to August time frame.. I have to see if there's a radiator shop that will hot tank the gas tank for me.... On a worst case assumption that there is some sort of goo, varnish settled on the bottom of the tank.. would i be better off just leaving the liquid in the tank, and then drain it when I'm able to drop it out of the car, rather than draining the tank now and letting what ever is left in the tank exposed to air, to dry out and possibly hardening, making clean out more difficult later?? Question 2, I got a couple of items that I either brought and no longer use/need or brought and never used.... I plan on listing them in the classified section, but since I've never sold stuff online before.. what is the easiest way for me and the seller to transfer funds?? Paypal?? I just want to make it easy for me to get the funds, once verified I got paid, I take the item to UPS get a tracking number send it to the purchaser and be done with it thanks again for your input, and help