peng155

Thanks for the info... I did do a search on craigs list and found another place up in Snohomish and dropped them an email already.. I'll give Zspecialties a jingle as well

Hello Folks, Can anyone suggest a source where i can purchase a used L24 long block for a rebuild project... I'd like it to be somewhere in the Seattle/PNW region so I can go check it out in person as opposed to buying something over the internet sight unseen.. Thanks

Jonathan, Thank you very much for your message... Yes you are quite correct on your advice of resisting the temptation to take the car apart beyond weekend or maybe 1 week projects... I sometimes tend to start on taking something apart, which then leads to something related item or system, and than I'm thinking "That looks (take your pick) worn out, old, dirty.... and i start working on that other thing... So yes I'll have to make sure I don't start tearing into something before what I started is completed... The suspension is going to have to get replaced, the previous owner lowered the car by cutting the stock springs, so I'm going to replace the springs, shocks and tires at all four corners as well... Thanks for the tip on the Red-Kote I'm still getting use to retirement... My biggest worry pre-retirement was how was i going to fill all the new free time I was going to have... I think cleaning up the Z and getting it ready for next summer will help with that a lot.... Thanks again

View Advert Grant 14in steering wheel Grant 14 inch steering wheel Used in my 71 240z everything in the picture is included, steering wheel, adapter hub, screws and horn button Price: $100.00, plus shipping, payment via Paypal Advertiser peng155 Date 05/26/2024 Price $100 Category Parts for Sale

View Advert K&N Air Cleaner, 70-72 240Z S.U. Carburetors (Pair) New, never used, K&N air filters for S.U Carbs Price: $175.00, plus shipping for the pair includes adapter plates to mount to SU carb. Please make sure these will fit on the carbs you are planning on using them with.. Sale is final. Payment via Paypal Advertiser peng155 Date 05/26/2024 Price $175 Category Parts for Sale

View Advert For Sale: K&N PCV Pipe Breather, 2" Diameter New, never used, as is... Price: $15.00, plus shipping. Payment via Paypal Advertiser peng155 Date 05/26/2024 Price $15 Category Parts for Sale

Hi Folks, Two new questions for you.... 1) My plan is to drain and drop the gas tank, service on the tank it self has never been done in the cars 53yr life... I dropped a 1/4 inch diameter tube into the filler spout and drew about 1/8 of a cup of liquid from the tank. What I drew from the tank looked Ok.. no chunks, or black goo in the draw or around the tube... Which really doesn't tell me squat.. I don't plan on being able to drop the tank for service until probably later this summer...most likely around July to August time frame.. I have to see if there's a radiator shop that will hot tank the gas tank for me.... On a worst case assumption that there is some sort of goo, varnish settled on the bottom of the tank.. would i be better off just leaving the liquid in the tank, and then drain it when I'm able to drop it out of the car, rather than draining the tank now and letting what ever is left in the tank exposed to air, to dry out and possibly hardening, making clean out more difficult later?? Question 2, I got a couple of items that I either brought and no longer use/need or brought and never used.... I plan on listing them in the classified section, but since I've never sold stuff online before.. what is the easiest way for me and the seller to transfer funds?? Paypal?? I just want to make it easy for me to get the funds, once verified I got paid, I take the item to UPS get a tracking number send it to the purchaser and be done with it thanks again for your input, and help

Hey Zed head.... I don't see myself driving the car anytime soon at this point, heck I haven't drove it in the last 10yrs and I'm not in any real hurry right now to drive it... I'll be putting it up on blocks while I go thru all of the coolant and fuel hoses replacing and changing those things out... my preference right now is to do this right this time, so that I don't have to worry about it later.... Plus it my own fault for not having properly prepped the car for storage... I've been going thru the post on this site and found a post with a link to resurrectedclassics.com, I went thru their site and it looks like they have reproduction hoses sets for the engine bay (coolant, fuel, emissions) everything I may require.. I was afraid I wouldn't be able to find the proper hoses with the correct bends to replace what every has rotted/corroded from sitting. Thanks for the heads up on the carb cleaner and wd-40.. I'll probably something like penetration oil and a small parts brush and rag to clean off any old grease/lubricant off of the pivot points to get them moving freely again, any suggestions on what to use to lubricate the joints after cleaning??? Someone (sightunseen maybe??) suggested lithium grease..

I've been reviewing the FSM for the coolant and fuel systems since both of these systems involve the transfer of fluid from one place to another within the car using rubber hosing of some sort.. I am worried about the old rubber hoses.. So I'll be replacing all of the rubber hoses in the engine compartment before I fire up the engine.. I'll probably follow siteunseen's suggestion and hook up a small gas can to the fuel pump with new gas and by-pass the gas tank completely... plus I'll also probably dis-connect the cabin heater core hoses in the engine compartment and loop the coolant lines to bypass the cabin heater core, that way if there's any leaking there I can deal with that later.. I may be over thinking this... siteunseen made a good point about spraying the heater valve with some type of lube, and I think I'll probably do this to all of the pivot.. I was thinking of using spray carb cleaner to, clean of any hardened grease or lubricant, and follow that up with a squirt of WD-40.. Does that sound like a good idea?? Thanks

Thanks for the suggestion... After having sat for the past 10yrs I'm pretty much guessing I'm going to have to replace all of the rubber hoses in the engine compartment.. I'm pretty worried about the heater hoses as well..... I'm guessing that all of the rubber hoses are going to be pretty stiff and cracked.

I was unaware that someone was reproducing the gas tanks for the early Z's.. I did a googled search and found that s30.com(?) was selling them for about $700USD I believe.. I don't expect my tank to be in that bad of a shape.. there aren't any dent that I could see on the bottom... what it will look like inside could be a different story.. The Z has always been stored inside a garage since I've know the car when i brought it from my school friend.. and I've always taken it out when it's been dry and or sunny, so I'm not expecting it to cost me all that much to have it hot tanked.. probably a couple of hundred bucks... what I expect to kill me will be the cost of the misc. replacement hoses and possibly a new filler hose and sending unit. When I did a search for a new filler hose just out of curiosity.. that was like $275, and i think the sending unit was $75

As the topic of my post states... I'm looking for a few good locale mechanic recommendations to work on the 'Z'... A lot of the simple to moderately hard stuff I can pretty much tackle (I thknk) There's a mechanic on the Eastside in Kirkland, Wa I'd like to use... but since his shop is so small, he's always booked... If I can't find a good recommendation.. I'm really tempted to contact Z car Garage in San Jose, and discuss the possibility of shipping the car to them for some major engine and suspension work Thanks for the input

Funny you should mention this... I was looking over my to-do list, and I was thinking since I'll be draining the gas tank, maybe it wouldn't be such a bad idea to drop the tank and send it to a radiator shop and have the innards hot tanked, and then pour some gas tank sealer in... Then in the mean time I can replace all of the old fuel lines... I'll have to contemplate on this a bit.....

Gent's Thanks for your input thus far... @psdeeno I think I''ll probably be following your line of thought... I'll get the car into running shape and re-evaluate my situation again... Most of what I have on my to-do list won't cost me very much in parts, and my time is obviously is gonna be free.. @grannyknot. thanks, retirement has been great so far, but than I've only been fully retired for only about a month... looking forward to summer, as I got a house paint project I need to get done... I have to admit part of the thrill of driving the Z was all of the looks I got driving around town... and it doesn't help that I have images of Sung Kang's fugu Z dancing around in my head... I swear that car is so dam sexy looking @jfa.series1... Thankks for the link to Carl's post... looking thru that thread and all of the names I recognized brings back good memories of the old timers from way back when....

Hello Folks, It's been quite a while since I've been on the board or worked on my Z, but I've had my 240z sitting in my garage under a car cover for the last 10yrs.. I recently retired and now have the spare time to spend working on the car again... When I left it parked in the garage it was running and drive-able... but having been sitting for the last 10yrs, I made up a list of the items that I'll probably need to do first on the car.. My current List Drain gas, Drain coolant, Drain / replace oil, Replace clutch slave, Replace brake and clutch fluid, Replace coolant / heater hoses, Replace radiator, Replace tires Once i get to this point then I am considering farming out most if not all of the major engine and suspension work to a shop.. The car has a few modification that I and or the previous owner (a high school buddy)l had done... Roll cage, Recaro seat, upgraded stereo, recovered door panels and carpet, MSD electronic distributor, MSD 6A digital ignition control, 5sp tranny, re-painted, rust areas taken care of.. I'm currently in the process of restoring the stock seat with the seat rebuild foam and covers from the Z store Other than this the car is pretty much stock, I'm at a cross road as to weather to keep the car of sell it. I've kept it because i think it such a cool looking car.. the other thing is that I can't find a shop of mechanic in my area that I would trust with working on my car. The Z as it sits is in my opinion in very good shape, it's not a concourse car by any means, If I keep the car, I'm considering putting in another 20-30k in fixing it up, but I'm not sure if this would be a wise move. Pictures of my Z are in my profile I would assume if you're on this board you're some what a Z-fanatic.. So what do you guy's think?

Steve, Check this link at Zhome.com it shows most of the 240/260z color, and assoceated codes for them.. http://www.zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary It does show that code 113 is listed as Metalic Green, But when I did a Google search for the paint code you listed 113, it come back as Avacado Metalic Green... Maybe check this other link and see if you can match the current color of your car to what is shown... http://www.automotivetouchup.com/touch-up-paint/datsun/1972/all-models/ Sorry I couldn't be of more help.... -Phil

The basic problem is that as the car ages... so does all of the electrical wiring in the car, as the wiring ages it starts to oxidize.. as the wiring begins to oxidize, the resistance of the wire increases, and the current passing through the wiring begins to experience higher resistance, higher resistance results in the wiring getting hotter then it was designed to. This is what is happening with the parking Light circuit, and headlight circuit, current passes from one side of the fuse (The battery, or source side) thru the fuse and then on to the load (the headlights). the weak links... say the combo switch, and the rivets securing the fuse holder to the fuse box experiences more resistance then it was designed to (the rivet get hot, and melt the fuse box plastic, the contacts in the combo switch degraded) ... the only way I think (not positive).. to totally repair the underlying cause of the problem is to replace electrical wiring with new non-oxidized wire. What Dave's harness upgrade does is to place a relay into the circuit to take the high current load off of the factory headlight circuit, instead of having say (Just guessing here) 15amps or more of current passing through the factory electrical wiring... only a few milliamps of current is passing through the factory wiring to power up the rely.... and the main current to power the headlights goes through the relay circuit in Dave's harness upgrade.

That's the exact same thing my girlfriend is always asking me Steve :devious: I saw in the post for those slim speaker pods that you got a pair Steve, How do you like them? I might give those a try... Thanks

Hey Brian, That's the info i was needing.... I wasn't sure if I was being stupid, and not seeing something in getting either the lamp assembly removed without actually un-soldering the connection at the bulb holder.... Thanks again... -Phil

If you're looking for stock ride, and height, you'll need to look for OEM stock springs.... I'm not positive, but I think pretty much anything out that is aftermarket lowers the car, and firms up the ride... Your best bet probably is either Ebay, or a salvage yard. The springs from Arizona Z Car states that they are "Considerably stiffer than stock" not what you're looking for

Hey Guy's, Here is the Q Logic kick panel enclosure I'm sort of looking at.. Universal Fit, Speaker Pod, Component Speaker Kick Panel [QL-U5001] - $109.99 : Q-Logic Direct, Car Audio Speaker and Subwoofer Enclosures Unfortunately they don't make a enclosure for our car any more because the car is too old.... Too bad I was thinking about buying a pair and seeing if they could be modified to fit in the foot well / kick panel area.. unfortunately the picture on the website isn't very good.. and I can't get a very good idea of the depth, and shape of the over all enclosure to see if some minor modification would let it be useable in the foot well. Steve, thanks for the link on the low profile speaker pod..... I sort of have something like it already, that I made a while back.... the problem with it is that the speaker is pointed at my feet, so not much of the sound is being direct up into the passenger cabin... The nice thing about the Q Logic enclosures is that the speakers are angled upwards so more of the sound is directed up in to the passenger area, and not at my feet I'm contemplating on just making my own enclosure... but that means I need to make a form for the speaker to fit, and then I need to cover it with fiberglass, and then covered to match the interior... not hard to do.. time consuming... and I'm just feeling kinda of lazy right now...

Hey Folks, I was just curious if anyone had ever tried to modify a Q Logic kick panel speaker enclosure for the 240 Z... I could make my own... But I'm feeling a bit lazy, and I'm hoping I could just buy something pre-made, and just modify it to fit the car kick panel area.. Thanks

Hey Damienas, I thought i throw my .02 in..... 600 bucks is cheap, no doubt about that.... I hate to be a kill joy, I remember what it was like getting my first car at 17.... BUT before you pull the trigger make sure you have someone go over the car thoroughly, I know this is your friends dad who is selling you that car.... but just make sure you go in to this with both eyes open.. The radiator cleaning shouldn't be a big problem.. DEPENDING on how bad it is.. You might be able to get way with just flushing it out, or you may need to take it in to have professional cleaned, You might ask your friends dad, what makes him think the radiator needs cleaning. Rust can happen pretty much anywhere on the car... but I noticed that you're in Vegas, can be a good thing because your climate is much drier there... I don't know about the 280, but trouble spots on the 240 were the rear dog leg, floor board, rear hatch lip, under the battery tray area to name a few. As Rossiz said any 30+ yr. old car will present learning opportunities... part of that learning is being able to source parts that may not be made any more, or it might cost you 2 arms, a leg, and probably your first born if you can find the part. Make sure you have a place where the car can be worked on and left undisturbed if needed... the last thing you'll want and need is to tear into the car to fix something you might think is simple, only to find out half way through it ain't, or you get it back together and it won't start or run.... Make sure you have some basic hand tools.. screw drivers, wrenches (open, and box end) in metric and standard sizes.. or have access to them... a multimeter will come in handy as well. And lastly if you do bite the bullet... you buy the car and it becomes a project... I don't want to say "make sure" But try to keep it as a rolling project... One of the other member said that one reason 'Z' project go by the way side, or the owner loses interest is that they aren't able to enjoy the car while working on it. Good luck

Hey Webmanic, Thanks for the info..

Hey Chris, Thanks, I'll have a closer look at it tonight... Thanks