peng155

You need to do some simple troubleshooting first, and provide some information... Where is the amp meter needle pointing in the following situations, also what year is your 'Z'? 1) Engine OFF, NO accessories ON (Amp Meter needle should be in the MIDDLE of the gauge, No current flow, electrical system not charging, or dis-charging) 2) Engine OFF, Headlights ON (Amp Meter needle should move to the LEFT of the middle of the gauge, Current flow, electrical system is dis-charging) 3) Engine ON, NO accessories ON (Amp Meter needle should move to the RIGHT of the middle of the gauge, electrical system is charging) 4) Engine ON, Headlights ON (Amp Meter needle should move further to the RIGHT of the middle of the gauge, electrical system is charging at a higher output) Also what does the amp needle do with the engine OFF, and you have the turn signal ON, either LEFT, or RIGHT (Amp Meter needle should move move back, and forth) Just trying to determine if your amp meter is indeed not working or not.... Your statement " The ahmeter is not working, it dials in the middle" isn't really saying much.. If you have an early 'Z', your amp/fuel meter should look like this.. To a certain extent it doesn't matter if your fuel gauge works or not... they are two separate gauges in the same housing

Hey Steve, I just rechecked Black Dragon's website, and it only showed that they could get the front bumper... it looked like they disn't have the rear in stock... Whitehead racing shows they can get the front, and rear JDM.... I may just bite the bullet and fork out the 1200 bucks thanks

Thanks for the info guy's... Chas, I would consider the Harrington Group option.... But WOW, 1200 bucks.... Too bad the Motorsport supplier isn't able to supply them anymore.... they were half the price, I'll probably follow Jerry's suggestion and have the holes on my current one welded close, and then have it re-chromed. thanks again -Phil

Hey Folks, I'm looking for a front, and rear bumper for the 'Z' I'm looking for the clean style bumper that do not have any of the mounting holes for the rubber end pieces or bumperettes. Anyone have any suggestions? Got word yesterday from Motorsports that their supplier isn't making them anymore.... Thanks

Ok, let me have a look around tonight, and this week-end.. will let you know if I can find you some

Jerry, Are you looking for actual orginal retaining nuts.... or radio shaft retaining nuts that will fit the stock radio? I only ask because I do still have my stock orginal radio, along with all of the mounting pieces, but I also have a bunch of misc odd & end radio parts from when the radios were analog.

Hey Jeff, I did see that change in your original post... good idea... I'll make sure I mention that to the fabricator when I see him. Thanks again.

Hey Jeff, Thanks for taking the time to come up with the CAD drawing for the bracket... it makes it real easy for me to just hand it to the metal guy's to fab up for me. Phil

Hey Mike, thanks for the suggestion.... I actually did order a billet hold down frame from Summit for the Optima, and was going to do exact the same as you, but the tray for the one I had ordered was physically to big to fit in the factory tray area... ended up sending it back. I know some metal work guys from work, with the plans that Carl linked to, I'll probably have a bracket made up for me... Thanks all for your input... it is apprceated

Hi Brian, Thanks for the reply... I got your PM... And no need to apologize, we all get busy Yeah, I'm still working on getting my engine bay lamp re-plated.... What I'm trying to figure out is... Is there a way to remove the center portion of the lamp head, So I can send the head, and body in for re-plating? Here's a picture of the part I'm trying to figure out if I can remove prior to plating (the part with the red arrow), I'm not seeing anyway that this center portion comes out, without cutting it out. If that piece isn't removable.... Will the bulb still work correctly after it's been re-plated?? I'm thinking it won't.. Let me know how and if you had a solution to this problem... thanks, -Phil

thanks Carl

Hey S30Driver, How do you have your Red Top secured in the battery tray? Need to find some sort of diversion from the TV right now... Hawks are getting schooled by the Chargers But it only the 3rd quarter.... still hope

Sean, Great pictures... Thanks for posting.... Your car looks amazing, along with the rest. I wish there were something like this around here in the Seattle area.... but it's mostly the younger crowd (at least compared to me) with the Honda's, Suburu's around here. I'm pretty envious... Keep posting if you can.... these pictures are fun to see. -Phil

Hahaha...... Yeah been there, after I've forgotten (actually just lazy) to put the charger on the battery

Hey Folks, I was curious as to what type/make battery you had in your 'Z' Right now I have a regular lead acid battery in the 'Z'... after I drive the car and park back in the garage, I pull the battery, put it on the bench and hook up my smart charger to it to keep the battery charged... This get's to be a pain, BUT I'm worried about the acid boiling out, and getting all over the place in the engine bay if the charger goes wonky... I also have a Red Top Optima that I have another smart charger in the garage, but it doesn't fit the factory battery hold down frame... I would prefer to switch to the sealed Optima that way I think I'm safer from battery acid getting all over the engine bay when it's hook-up to the charger. I've never had a problem with a leaking battery... I'm I being paranoid?? thanks.... -Phil

Thanks.. I appreciate your help

I'm wiring in a new alarm system.... and I needed to find a place to tap the alarms Ignition connection into.... I thought I needed to find a source that was hot while in the Start & Run position due to what Zed Head posted... But now after re-reading the install manual I think I'll be ok in just tapping into any location that's hot, so I'll try jfa.series1 suggestion of using the radio circuit.

Thanks for clarifying that Capt. I am working on a 71, but at the time I posted my question I couldn't readily find the correct picture... so I just pulled one that showed something similar, but not exactly what a 71 is.... Thanks for the info, and sorry for the confusion... But you and the other guy's did provided me the answer I was looking for, which was how to read these switch diagrams .... Many Thanks.....

Great, thanks for the info... Just wanted to make sure I was interpreting the drawing correctly

Hey Guy's, A quick general question about the ignition switch diagram in the FSM.... I need to find a wire that has power on it when the ignition switch is in the start/on position... For the following diagram Would I be correct that I could tap into the wire coming off of position 14, or 16 provided that they had +12vdc going to them from somewhere? Thanks

Thanks Rossiz

Rossiz... I never really thought about a plug kit... I'll have to look into that.. also can you post some info on the compressor that screws into the spark plug hole?? That sounds real interesting ... Thanks for your guy's input.... I'm probably gonna keep the spare in the car for the time being... and look into one of those external powered sub-woofer tubes.

Oilju, This is exactly my thoughts as well....

Hey Folks.... Question for you... I was thinking of ditching my spare tire to put in a stereo sub-woofer in the spare wheel well... It's been a while since I've had a flat on any of my cars.. but still I prefer to be safe then sorry... Anyone here ever use that Air & Seal flat repair stuff... I assume it only for emergency repair of the tire to get you to the nearest gas station/tire repair joint... I was just wondering how well it worked.. and if it can screw up the balance of the tire one way or another.. Thanks

Hey Walter... I've been thinking about the same thing off and on with regards to the breaks on the car... My Fall/Winter project will probably be to install a Wilwood front disk brake upgrade.