peng155

Great, Thanks for the info....

Hi Folks, I'm hoping this is a quick and easy question... I installed Unilite distributor into my 71-'Z', It has the stock engine. Followed all of the instructions, and post on the board here... everything works... engine fires up, it runs... Tach also works.. I haven't taken it out on the road yet. My question is this.... the new Unilite didn't appear to come with any timing mark indicators, I look at the old stock distributor to see if the timing indicator some how mounted on the new one.. but it didn't appear so. How do I adjust the timing it there is no timing indicator to adjust with? Am I missing something?? Thanks, -Phil

Hey Guy's Once again thanks for the advice and info.. When you guy's talk about replacing the hose section.... I'm guessing that you're talking about the hose section that connects from the hard line to the slave... correct?? On another note.. I was doing some price comparison shopping for the master, and slave I notice that one vendor has the master, and slave with hose section in a kit for about $98.00, another vendor sells them separate for about about $140.00 total. I've always believed in doing it right the first time using quality parts. I'm not saying that one vendors part is inferior over the other, but a price difference of 40 bucks... well 40 bucks is 40 bucks. Do you guy's think spending the extra 40 bucks get me anything... Other than a more expensive master, and slave unit?? Thanks

Hi Folks, Thanks for the replies and info.... Tried bleeding the clutch system, and that didn't fix the problem, so I'll probably go ahead and replace both the master clutch, and slave unit. I was able to flush the system using my vacuum bleeder, but I wasn't able to get a steady stream of fluid, it was a mix of fluid and air.. so instead of screwing around with it, I'll just replace both units and hope that takes care of the problem... unless someone thinks it could be something else. Thanks

Hi Folks, Quick question for ya all... I started working on my 71 z the other day.... It's been about 5 years or so since I last drove it, When I put it under the car cover the Z was drivable, but when I went and started it up the other day and pressed on the clutch... the peddle went straight to the floor board with very little pressure needed... I checked under the car, and I saw no signs of any fluid leaks.. I checked the clutch cylinder and it was full, I'm planning on bleeding, and replacing the old clutch fluid tomorrow with new.... but I was wondering if anyone knew is it possible for either the clutch main, or slave cylinder seals to leak from sitting so long and lack of use, or could the system just develop air in the system from lack of use? I know I've had the slave cylinder replaced already due to it leaking, and I pretty sure it has less then 3k miles on it, but it's probably about 7 years old... anyone have any ideas? Thanks

Hi Guy's... It's been a while since I've been on the board, and I've come to the decision to sell the Z.... My question is what's the best way to determine a fair sellng value for my 71 Z? Thanks for your advice and suggestions

Hey Guy's Thanks for the input.... Most of problems I read were from a G35 forum board, and I guess if I took the number of owners that I read about dealing with this problem as a ratio to all G35 owners, I would suspect that it would be a small percentage. I do plan on having a full inspection performed if I do decide to purchase from a private owner.... I pretty much narrowed my decision of car make down to either a Acura TL, RSX, Infinity G35, or Honda Prelude or Accord... Unless I totally get cold feet about spending so frickin much $$$$$ for a new-used car, the 'Z' gets a buddy to keep it company in the garage.. Thanks again... and Happy 4th to you all

Hey Guy's... I've been contemplating the purchase of a used G35 coupe, with an auto tranny... I've been doing some research on the car and it appears that the motor in these vehicles have a horrendous oil consumption problem.. somewhere on the order of about 1 quart/1000 miles. I'm not sure but isn't this the same engine that is used in the 350z, and the Altima 2.5? I've also read on the G35 forums that if you can get the dealership service to do a oil consumption study, and they find that the engine uses more than 1 quart/1000 miles Infinity/Nissan will replace the engine. I personally think that paying 20~25K for a used car with the potential is ridiculous... My question is this anyone here with a G35 and have you had this problem occur? And if you have was it resolved, and if so how. Also if Infinity did replace the engine due to high oil consumption, wouldn't you just end up with the same problem again, if the factory didn't correct the original problem in the first place? Thanks for the input.....

Hey Dave, That was one of the first things I checked when I pulled the steering wheel, the tab screw was tight, but I could still move the contact arm. I tried to tighten the hold down screw some more, but I didn't try too hard for fear of stripping the threads, or cracking the plastic mounting plate that the contact arm was mounted to.

Gnosez, Great suggestion... and so simple... Thanks

Guy's.... I purchased a new club sport steering wheel from MSA about a year or so ago, The wheel is nice, BUT the adapter leaves something to be desired.. My main complaint is that the contact plate on the underside of the adapter sits so far up the adapter hub, that I need to bend the copper contact arm almost 90 deg. perpendicular to mounting point to reach the contact plate. I had sent the combo stock, and T/S stock out to Dave for R&R, and made some other mods to the car, got it all put back together, and when I went to take the car out for a test drive, any slight turn of the wheel left or right causes the horns to go off. It's possible I may have a pinched wire some where in the column from when I put the combo, and T/S switches back in.. I'll have to check that out tonight, but with regards to needing to bend the contact arm so drastically, I was wondering, Did anyone else with a Grant steering wheel, and adapter find themselves having to do this? Thanks for your input.... -Phil

Thanks Mike

When you go for a day cruise, or a longer trip in your Z (tool wise) in case your Z decides to quit while you're far from home? I've just done a bunch of ignition, and electrical upgrades to my Z, and being a 30+ year old car I hate to be stuck on the side of the road, in the middle of no where, on a dark rainy night (did I forget anything?) without at least a fighting chance of fixing it on the road side, and getting myself home, or at least to the nearest service station. Thanks

I know we had this topic come up before when I posted about getting Hagerty insurance, and just as Carl said then, what he saying now.... Don't get the insurance with the intent of pulling the wool over their eye's... I think they call it insurance fraud.

I'm in the same boat as you Jeff, I only drive my Z from late spring, into summer, and early fall. I usually just bus it into work, but when the mood suites me I may decide I want to drive into work, and than take a nice leisurely cruise home from work. Unfortunately Hagerty frowns on doing this, and I put to much sweat into it not to be able to enjoy driving it when I want.

Hey Arne, I'm thinking about making the trip down from Seattle, I have friends in Portland and may stop off there Friday, and Saturday and than show up Sunday morning... But I need to get off my @ss and get the car put back together other wise I ain't going no where.

I removed the smog stuff from my 71... I was going to purchase a set of ram tubes from ZTherapy but they didn't have any... so they sent me to a company called Advance Performance Technology... their website is http://www.aptfast.com/ They offered me two options one was a stub stack, and the other was 2-1/2 inch stack, due to the cost difference I opted for the stub stacks. Can't tell you how well it works yet.. I'm still putting the ignition, and other stuff together into the car. I think the stubs were like 70.00 bucks for the pair, and the 2-1/2 inch tubes were twice the cost. Here a picture off of google showing the MSS4 stub stacks http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q=MSS4&btnG=Search+Images&gbv=2&aq=f&oq=

Thanks for sharing the emails... Too funny Sorry you have to deal with such idiots :stupid:

Always wanted a Five&dime to add to the one car Datsun collection I have... too bad I don't have an extra 17K under the matress

Oh yeah ...... Actually I was just being lazy when I did the post, just did a search on melted fuse boxes and posted the link.... If you put Dave's upgrades head light, and parking light upgrades in instead of having all of the current run through the combo switch, and the fuse block, you re-direct the current through the relay's in the upgrade... I've installed both of Dave's head light, and parking light upgrades, as well have having him re-condition both combo, and turn signal switch mechanisms.. probably one of the better investments I made in the 'Z' since I owned it. It's been over a year since I've had the car out on the road... I'm still screwing around installing all of the ignition and distributor crap I brought a few months ago.

I think I had a simlar problem with my 'Z' a few years back... Check this thread out and it may solve your problem.. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1267&highlight=Melting+fuse+block

I've never purchased or dealt with this individual, but you probably should read this post before you decide to deal with them http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32275

Thanks Arne, I just did some reading in my Datsun books, and it would seem my options if I were to pickup this engine would be to source a a 76 or earlier head with the square exhaust ports, or make sure I get the stock exhaust manifold with the engine, and plan on redoing the exhaust system when I make the swap (?)

I boo-booed... it's a 77 280Z, Not sure if the engine is runnable since the guy is parting the car out.. I was planning on making the engine a part time hobby learn how to rebuild an engine when I don't have anything better to do time killer. I was planning on using as many of the bolt on engine components from the L24 as I could.. mainly the distributor, intake, and exhaust manifold's. I was considering heading to a pick & pull to get my guinea pig subject, but I sort of thought that getting an engine from a private party part-out might be a safer route (?) I'm checking to see if the engine can be started up. Thanks guy's

thanks for the input guy's... I'll be staying with a SU setup