peng155

Hello Everyone... Can someone tell me if the following problem is a syncho problem, or is the driver (Me) being an idiot I have a 71 'Z', with a transplanted 5spthat the PO installed... As I drive the car I have no problems up shifting 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd, and so on... as I slow down, and down shift 4th to 3rd.. no problems, and as I come to say a stop sign, or make a turn and down shift from 3rd to 2nd so i don't lug the engine... I have a hard time getting the transmission into gear. I am double clutching, but it seems that it's a hit or miss deal as to if the shifter will go into gear. I think I notice that weather the shifter will go into gear or not depends on how high, and how long I rev the engine when I double clutch. I've had the tanny fluid replaced by my mechanic with synthetic it seems a bit better, but I don't remember having this problem until recently.. Any clues or suggestions, I'm ready to pull the tranny and have it rebuilt Thanks -Phil

Hi folks.... Can someone please explain how the battery, and charging system is suppose to work when operating properly?? I have a 71, which I have modified the charging system. I've replaced the orginal generator/external votage regulator setup with the GM Delco alternator setup. I've had the setup installed, and running in the car for the last year or so, and everything seems to be operating normally. What I've noticed is the following when driving... With any accessory on at idle the amp meter is at Zero, No discharge, no charge on the system, But once I rev the engine up I see the amp meter needle move to the positive side of the gage, meaning that the system is receiving a charge from the alternator, and the amp meter needle gradually moves from the plus side, back to center, or Zero charge. Can someone tell me if this is the correct operation of the alternator/battery system?? Also should I reduce the pullie size on the alternator so that the alternator output is higher at idle?? Thanks for your input..... -Phil

I'm no bodyman... But I just did have my 240 repainted by a body shop that specializes in restoration work... If you're going to take it down to bare metal, you might as well skim coat the body with bondo to get the body as smooth, and ripple free as possible. Just my .02 worth..

Hey everyone.... I got a question for the board... I'm in my final phase of R&R of the 240... One of the last major interior things I need to do is either replace or referb the passenger, and drivers seat. A local shop that sells after market seats also will R&R the orginals, new seat webbing, foam, covers... The cost is about 600/seat, the mechcanisim that raises and lowers the seat back is pretty worn, and I always have to adjust it up cuz it always lowers it self back down. The shop carries Corbeau, Recaro, and a few others... Should I have the stock seats R&R, or get new after market's ?? The only ones that seemed to fit me well were the Recaro's, the Corbeau seats were too narrow in the shoulders, and in the hip/butt area, and I'm not a big person by any means. So if you have any suggestions, and or opinions let me have em!! Thanks

Hey thanks for the info Carl.... I think I lucked out I checked the door weatherseals and neither one of them had the built in welting... So at this point I'm going to assume I have the early stock 240 door seal. Car gets trailered to the paint shop tomorrow to get new paint and seals.... I'm getting EXCITED!!!!

I can't speak for the ZX/Maxima alt swap.. But I did do the AC/Delco alt replacement in my 71 z. I purchased the V-8 z engine conversion manual frmo JTR, and after thumbing through it I read the electrical part and how to wire up a GM alt. It was pretty easy to do as long as you follow the instuctions. At the sametime I also installed an updated fuseable link into the electrical system, hoping that it'll protect the car in case of a dead short. I did have to buy the modified alt bracket to bolt up the GM alt to the z, but other than that it works pretty well, No more dim head lights, and slow wind shield wipers at idle any more. Just got to remember that once the engine starts up, to gas it to get the RPM's over 1000 for a few seconds to get the alt excitor circuit to kick in to start charging the battery.

Ok.. Thanks for the info... Last stupid questions... On the seals what is the welting?

Here's a question to all... What makes an Nissan/Datsun OEM part, an OEM part aside from being sold by an authorized Nissan dealer?? Reason I ask is that I called Courtesy Nissan to order a set for the door's, the parts guy came back with a price of $125.00 for one side, and $115.00 for the other, When I confirmed with the parts guy that this was for a 71 Z, he said that these seals would work on all Z's from 70 -78. After reading all of the articles on the board about after market seals being different in thickness due to a change in door gap(?) It makes me wonder if these are original factory spec seals, Thus my question if Nissan is farming the manufacturing of the seals out, and is going to a one size fit all approach... is it still OEM?? Not sure if I'm making sense here, if not I'll try and clarify myself further.. Thanks

Hi Everyone, I have a 71 Z that the previous owner swapped a 5spd into. Everything works fine, except one little thing that bothers me about the swap... Apparently the 5spd sits further back than the stock 4spd did, so to compensate, the previous owner repositioned the center console back, meaning the fuse box isn’t bolted in the stock location, and the ashtray doesn’t fit the way it set up now. Does anyone have any recommendations on how I can fix this problem so that I can get the center console, ashtray, and fuse box back in their original locations?? Thanks for any help you guy’s can offer. -Phil

Now that's what I'm talking about.... I have no qualms in spending 3 to 4 grand for a "Nice" paint job... meaning it doesn't have to be show quality... The car is in nice shape, but it's not a show car... the previous owner put a roll cage into the car, and as cool as it looks... I dunno.. I think I could do without it... but that neither here, or there.. Thanks to everyone for there input.... keep-em coming.. I still haven't really made a decision yet.

Hello all, A question to all the Z enthusiast out there... I have a 72 240z, and all that's needed is a paint job.... My dilemma is that all the paint shops in my area are collision shops only and won't do full body paint. Which leaves me only the local Macco, and the local full tilt restoration shops. The price for painting the car is either $1000.00 for Macco, or $6000.00 for the a really good job from the restoration shop. All the major body work has been done..ie new sheet metal on the fenders to take care of rust behind the front wheel wells on both sides of the car. There is no major rust that I know of or can see (the cars always been garaged, and maintained since I've know it 25+ years). The interior is in very good shape, I've had the carpet replaces, the door panels redone, and the dash is in excellent condition.. no cracks, sun fading the usual stuff. I've done a lot of refurbishing work on it the last few years, wipers, electrical, etc... only because it was easy to fork out fifty to a hundred bucks for parts... So I guess the question is this... Am I being short sighted in not welling to pay $6000.00 for a paint job?? The six grand isn't just to spray the car, but that includes a lot of other prep work, taking out the glass, straighten out some of the metal work on the body, lining up the doors and such... so I know that if I spend the 6000.00 the car will come back in a great condition. But I look at the fact that I could take that six grand, add another five or six grand and get a newer 300zx. What would you guy's do???? Thanks