Palmer

It actually hangs down off of the mustache bar on the right side. I've seen this on all 280's. The hanger is metal with a rubber like square patch material on it. I'll get a better picure of it and post it soon. I didn't reattach it, need to clean it up a little..

That's got to be it, the optional flux capacitor module. I was thinking of the power inverter source for the deflector dish. Either way, still a mystery....

I'll be 42 next month and doing what I can to hold back Father Time. I had my first Z, a 76' 280 about 22 years ago. Had to sell it to 'help' pay for kollege, that was a sad day. After graduating with a four year degree...several years later, I did something called marriage and then a few years later did something better called divorce, she just didn't fit. So, after living in a shoebox apartment after that episode I scraped for about three years to save money to by a house. BUT, I vowed to myself that I would find a house with a two car garage that would give me enough room to work on another Z someday. A few years later I picked up a 78' 280 in very good shape integritywise and had all the major body work done. My intent was to buy a 73' 240 but the asking price was too high for the ones I was looking at. I'm slowly getting it back together with new bushings, springs, struts, disc brake upgrades, and picked up a '83 ZXT motor also. I'm a day away from getting the rear strut towers back in...getting there. I guess it's the same thing that hits all of us, when you drive one of these the feeling never leaves you so in addition to never letting go of your childhood, I wanted that feeling back since the day I sold that Z over 22 years ago. I'm getting there and can't wait..... Website needs a huge upgrade but I'll get to that also.

Try this too: http://www.rockauto.com I was going to ask about this vendor when I got to this point. Filter down through the catalog to find the steering rack...

What is this part on the right rear hangar and it's function? I know it needs to be under the stache bar but everything isn't in 'tight' yet. Just wondering what the frack this flap thing does...

thanks kinfish... I'll carefully trim that flange and do what I can do before getting it to the shop...

Why does the upper flange of the nut on the rear wheel bearing need to be cut as shown on the Atlantic Z car page?

Hey everyone. It's been several months since I've posted. My Uncle passed away earlier this year and I've been pretty much taking care of his estate. This takes a huge amount of time and money. Big word of advice here...If you have a surviving family member who never married or had no children, make sure they at least have a will written up. If not, you have to go through a probate lawyer to get everything going. I know all about it now $$$. Either way, looking to get the grease back on my hands soon. I should get the rear wheel bearings delivered tomorrow. Any advice about getting the rear-diff rebuilt, exchanged, etc....please let me know. Gotta update the z page also. Looks a little...behind. http://www.project280z.com If anyone trades foreign currencies...have a look... http://www.fxtradeblog.com

Sounds like it was specifically made for the track. I'm just not a fan of the too fast too furious high school driftin' mtv fin on the rear...but, if it's made for the track...

I've updated the web page with some spindle pin puller pics if anyone is curious... http://www.project280z.com

My first Z some 18 years ago was a 280, had to sell it to pay for some college. When I was shopping around for a Z project my intent was to find a 240 but the cost to find one in good shape was beyond my budget. So I found a 280 and that's where I am right now. The folks here at classiczcars seem to be a little more patient with certain questions or subjects vs over at hybridz so this site is 'home' to me. It's really not about what you drive and if one car is better than the other. It's about what you grew up with and the memories you are trying to bring back to life....It's a Z car, that's all that matters.

Yup, planning on using the turbo...Found some info on Hybrid Z about the swap...

Would the engine from an '82 ZXT 2+2 fit properly into the '78 that I'm working on? Not sure if the mounts are different because of the 2+2, thinking of the tranny also...

I finally got around to updating the page with the front disc upgrade from Ross at MM. Click on the 'Current Job' link to get to the page.... www.project280z.com

I just did a quick search for 'domain name auctions'...lots of choices. It may be worth a shot. I gues great minds think alike!

Beautiful Z, hate to see you part with it. Have you ever considered selling your cal hotties domain name? You may make enough on that to keep the car and the business....

More like..WTF are you doing working on a Z in the first place?!...

Thanks WebD, I got it...I posted the same ? at Hybrid Z..Took a pretty good beating for it also....

I lost a lot of pics of my 'disassembly' when my hard drive crashed so I lost a lot of answers to my questions. The orientation of the front wheel bearing: does the larger diameter end face the tire or the car? All the pics in the shop manuals and catalogs have a circular picture of the bearing and not the 'cone like' shape of the bearing as it really is. I can't tell from the pic on the Atlantic Z Car bearing page which way it is actually in the hub...

Get ready for the new scenery. If you aren't staying at one of the condos that have sprung up like weeds here, you can't see the beach much less park anywhere (public access is non-existant) to get to the beach. The beach is pretty much ruined. The only sand dunes left are at the state park on the east end. This place has really gone down hill with all of the investor flipping development...

I'm an idiot. I just took another look at the Atlantic Z Car page strut replacement info..the gland packing ring holds the fluid in. I heard that...I already said that I was an idiot.

Freak shows nightly!

Adding to this: OK, the KYB-GR2's don't fit back into the original strut cylinder (that the stock strut was inside of where the oil 'was') that fits into the entire strut assembly. The KYB's diameter is a little larger than the strut cylinder. The piston rod guide that had the o-ring on top of it that actually kept the oil between the stock strut and the cylinder doesn't fit. The KYB comes up to the top of the strut assembly with just enough space for the gland packing ring (KYB's gland packing ring) to secure the strut inside of the assembly. There's no way to add oil (I bought some $2 tranny fluid, no loss) to the strut assembly with the KYB's. I'm guessing or thinking, sometimes those are the same with me, that the KYB's are 'all good' without any additional heat transfer fluid between them and the strut assembly. OK, done...I'll take JW Black and water in a tall glass. I'll open the Blue Label when the car is done.....might be 70 year old scotch by thenROFL

Well, if the strip clubs ban me, life ain't worth livin'. Thanks boss.

OK, so I'm in the process of finishing up the front disc conversion w/MM's kit. Getting it all back on and, hmmm...there really isn't a whole lot that holds the wheel on is there? Hub rides on the spindle via the bearings, outer locking nut and the caliper are the only pieces of hardware that acutally keeps the wheel 'on' the spindle...or have I totally forgotten about something so obvious that I need to be banned from this place?:stupid: