Palmer

I ordered a lower-left-rear fender patch panel from MSA back in March of 05. They told me a month later it was out of stock. Yesterday, 1 year and 4 months later they decided to call me and tell me that they would not be able to fill the order. Crazy stuff.:stupid:

FWIW: I'm doing the brakes and suspension first then engine/tranny work. I figure that I would do the 'easy' stuff first and save the tough stuff for later. Hope there's enough server space here... www.project280z.com

When I was removing the orginal struts I did take a nice bath in the old fluid. I thought I drained it all out until I pushed down on the old strut rod...

The Z will be street only. But, if it's not going to hurt anything I'll add it to the strut housing. Thanks guys, again.

I just took a look at the Atlantic Z car club page about the Tokico strut replacement. They're refilling the strut tube with fluid for the Tokico's. The KYB instructions (for the GR2's that I am inserting) don't say anything about this. Do only the Tokico's need strut fluid?

Any thoughts on replacement sway bars front/rear for a 280? How does one brand differ from the stock as far as feel goes? How does the thickness of the sway bar affect the feel of the car? And, about that gap with the ball joint....

It took little 'work' to get the rod in a fit it back through the ball-joint/link bolt holes. I think it's because those bushings are so stiff. It's in though

They're moog replacements. I think there was a gap when I took the old one's out, just don't remember...

I can't remember when I removed the suspension 'stuff' if there was a gap between the ball joint and the transverse link. There was so much grease and dirt to clean out. Either way, the joint doesn't sit flush with the t-link but all of the nuts/bolts are flush with everything. See pic...

Bu: The sleeve is exactly 2 inches long....

I just looked at the pics at the atlantic z page and the only flat washers that I had with the control rods were the washers that came off after the captive nut was removed. I guess I can put on a flasher washer on the other side as well...interesting. Believe me, these bushings were never replaced. The original sleeve was almost completely deteriorated....like both the front end links were...to the breaking point almost.

I'm doing the exact same thing right now, or in the next hour and a half I guess. I've got the same bushings from VB. They sent me another set of bushings also and I don't have a clue what they are for. My internet connection is down at the house. If I can get back online later I'll post a pic and re-post....

I went with the KYB-GR's front and rear with suspension techniques 1" lowering springs. But, I have yet to drive the car since the engine is about to be removed so I really can't comment on the ride, yet. But, I did a few months of research and figured this would be the 'least stiff' way to go. I really didn't want to lower the car but I couldn't find any springs that didn't. I did want to replace the springs just because they were original and had almost 200K miles on them. I'll let you know how it rides....some day. www.project280z.com

BD: Is this your first time that you have ever painted a car? Just curious because I've got that in the back of my head to do it myself. I've got visions of visqueen curtains hanging in my garage right now. How much of the body work (dent removal/filler) stuff did you do? And, what size tires are those...curious. I've got the same car a www.project280z.com that is 'nearing' the stripping process. Congrats on the outcome. Drive on!

To date: Major rust repair and new body panels or metal welded in, $1200. See the bodyshop pics at www.project280z.com To be updated shortly Either way. When I'm done with the rear-end mechanical attributes and I get the engine/tranny pulled it'll be time to start thinking about the body work.

OK, I used a small hand torch to melt and chip out the old inner bushing of the front left control arm and removed the inner sleeve, about 5 minutes. The inner shell is still there for now, just need to make sure of a few things. The bushings will not fit in the control arm with the inner sheel still in. So, I'm going to hit it with some penetrating fluid and carefully cut it out with a hacksaw. I'll remove the blade from the saw and reinstall it through the arm. Get the inner shell out, clean the 'wall' on the inside, bushings go in with the small sleeve in the picture. Disregard the larger sleeve, that's for the rear, qeustions forthcoming I assure you. Now, does bushing #3060 get installed towards the front of the car or rear? The directions don't say. Do I have this correct as stated above? If so I just need to know which way the bushings go.

I love everybody here. Thanks.

Thanks Mike. I've got new bushings throughout, tie rods, struts, springs going on,,,Machine shope here we come...

ES refers to the transverse link as the front control arm and for some reason that was giving me a fit. Anyway, to remove the bushing and the metal sleeve from the control arm I'm thinking of using one of those small propane torches to melt the old rubber bushing out, carefully, and then work the sleeve out. Any thoughts?

The front end link bushing pack that's in the ES set has the bushings but what is the bolt for? The cupped washers are useless since they aren't fixed to the bolt. If you look closely at the link in the pic the metal between those two sad looking bushings is badly worn. The rear links will be probably be just as bad. MSA has them for about $13 each. Anyone know if these are avilable at a local parts store?

See pic. These are stock rims off of a 78'. The tape reads 15" from the edge of the rim to the other edge or about 14" inside the edge. What's the correct way to measure the size of the rim? Or, saying it another way, what is the stock rim size on the 78'?

Jeff: Do your Tokicos have a 1 inch drop? Just curious because I'm looking to get 16" Pans myself. I'm installing ST springs with a one inch drop and I don't want the wheels to crowd the fender. Yours look great. I'm in the process of installing MMotorsports front disc upgrade and I'm pretty sure the 16" wheels will give the calipers enough room.

Fuhget about it all.....

I may go with your suggestion jmort. When the car is * cough * uh * cough cough * finished...I don't plan on driving it in the rain and it's not going to be a daily driver so I may just put 'em on ebay at some point...

I've got these to go with the KYB GR-2's that I'll be using with ST Springs. The boots look a little fat for the springs, they touch the springs on the inside. Any suggestions.....