mlc240z

Hey Dave, WOW! very nice

really sad news. had to happen sometime, but another who i hoped was timeless. set the bar very high for class acts. always seemed like a guy you could have a beer with and engage about everyday stuff. too many great roles to list. best wishes

hair dryer to soften and gentle scraping with a nylon scraper?

hey i remember you, Rick!! welcome back, and by the way, inquiring minds DO want to know about the 2+ years.

same as Bo, just kept sucking air thru the threads without a dab of bearing grease. also have gotten into the habit of putting antiseize on the bleeders and brake line connections for future maintenance ease and that worked almost as well. MightyVac does work great on newer cars to pull vacuum to test sensors, diaphragms and such. handy tool.

keep going, Bart. you're making good progress. i've had mine for about 3 years now and she still hasn't been on the road yet. don't lose faith. by the way, great name.

another thing when you're installing the new ones. a little coating of antiseize on all the bleeders and brake line fittings. you'll thank yourself if you ever have to disassemble or bleed in the future.

hey Dave, i don't think it's morally right for you to demand that someone sell you some females before you will make the harne............................. never mind, i read that wrong:D!! just makes me glad that i bought mine early. now if i can just get off my lazy butt and install it..... keep up the great work.

Josh, if you are a relative rookie with cars and wrenching, i would have this done by a pro. brakes are probably the worst thing to guess at on a car since they are the most important safety system. that said, if you have moderate experience, go for it. it's a pretty straight forward job. remember to bleed the system after you replace the cylinders.

Thanks guys. guess i'm wired wrong:tapemouth. i'll have to hit the garage tonight to correct it. any info/guess on what full current/full time will do to the tach? i'd hate to get correct resistance to save a $70 ignitor and fry a $$$$ original tach.

lacquer is a very good protecting finish, dries quickly, but the coating is very brittle. my father-in-law was a cabinet maker and the finishes he put on were incredible. if using, be careful of the humidity when spraying, as high humidity can cloud the finish. for indoor furniture yes, but not sure it will stand up well to the constant changes in temp and humidity outdoors. it's brittle nature could cause it to crack prematurely. i used spray oil-based polyurethane. it takes a little longer to dry and cure. but the finish is more resilient/flexible but still tough. water-based should have the same characteristics but dries quickly allowing you to apply multiple coats in a short time.

that's what i did with mine, just attached a grease fitting. i've got some pics in my gallery from when i redid my front end. you should be able to see the fitting.

Hey Jared, guess we're in the same boat! i haven't been posting for a while since my son bought a house. been real busy doing the helpful 'dad' thing. we're almost done with most of the renovations and should be moving him out of here and then into his own place soon. hope you're well and good to hear from you again. and like you, glad to be back in the Z fold once again (for now!).

Steve, with the pertronix, (which i love) make sure you are bypassing the ballast resistor. that ballast setup was only to restrict the voltage to extend the life of the points. make sure you use a jumper wire to bypass the ballast to guarantee you are getting 'full' voltage to the pertronix and the cylinders. you might also want to open the plug gap a little with this setup (since you are getting a bigger spark) for a more complete burn. i tried this with mine and she idles and runs very well. the backfire sounds like a lean condition in the front carb. try riching it up a little and see if it goes away. not sure about the timing (10 degrees????).

they're still 30+ years old. try the eibach progressives. they're relatively cheap. bought them on ebay but you can get them at summit racing and other online sites, shop around.

yea Stephen, there are some pretty STUPID people out there!!

yea, i'm jealous too, Mike!!

welcome, Brian!! she looks great from the topside. wish i had your bumpers!!! you've come to the right place, a lot of VERY knowledgeable people here, very willing to help you. noticed the unusual treatment to the air filter box. never seen that before. do you know why the extra sheet metal?

what about just adding a few feet of vertical track on the sides thereby extending the upright tracks so that the curved track is closer to the roof? if you're on the gable end, you should have the height to do this. the door would just go up higher 'flat' before the sections started to fold at the ceiling line. you would probably have to use longer helper springs to make up for the increase in travel.

PO had already drilled out a frozen bolt and rigged a larger bolt that looked hideous. bought a whole new housing for around $30-35. as long as you already have it off the block, it's the way to go. cheap fix, sprayed with clearcoat to keep it pretty, and anti-seized the crap out of it so hopefully no problems in the future.

thanks for the followup, Chris. can't wait to hear it.

very nice, Chris! flowmaster with 2.25 exhaust piping. did you put a resonator in or straight back to the muffler? if no resonator, do you get the 2500rpm 'drone'? how does the exhaust note change when she warms up, (quieter, throatier, louder, higher pitched)?

this is pretty simple mechanical work. i think it was about $60 for ball joints, about same for outer tie rod ends, didn't replace inners). $40 for tension rod kit and rubber (requires 2 rubber bushings). also replaced all other bushings with poly. if money's really tight, buy the individual bushings separately. but try to scrape together the money for the whole bushing kit. it was $155 from Summit racing and will save you lots in the long run. individual costs are about $90-100 for just the front end and steering. and when you finally get around to it, you'll have all the bushings for the rear on hand instead of spending another $100 individually. be forewarned, once you drop everything down to do the ties and ball joints, it's real easy to get the IMAW's and WIAI's. i replaced springs, struts, calipers, rotors, pads, bridge tubes, SS brake lines, repaint, refurb rack, etc because it was just all accessible anyway.