mlc240z

a hitch on a sports car? that's almost blasphemy!! agree with Enrique tho, not a good idea,structurally.

glad to hear it's such an improvement! i've never bought a new car in my life, always at least 4 yrs old. so the running joke in my house is with all the new front/rear end work on my 35 yr old Z, it will be the newest 'driving' car car i've ever owned.

welcome. doubt it's firefox. it's all i use to access the site and upload. never gave me a problem.

have had it for over 2 years now and still haven't driven it. started to 'refresh' it and i'm still at it. slow and fairly steady, working it in between life's other distractions.

sorry, no aol. but one of these days we should meet up to swap stories and hints.

just noticed central nj. what town are you in, Chris?

if you have a good compressor, first addon tool should be an impact wrench. handy as hell and you probably won't ever snap a rusty bolt again.

double checked and the pics shown for the tie rods show tie rods, not boots. given the price difference, i agree the $7 part should be a boot. could be a mistake.

great writeup, Will!!! thanks alot for the referral for resilvering. i'll be sending my business to him. one question tho, did the resilvering affect the day/night function of the mirror?

learned the hard way that the first step of a 'normal' tuneup is to adjust the valves. has this been done? had similar issues with the car running like crap and started to screw with the mixtures. made things worse. after adjusting the valve lash, suddenly the weird things i had attributed to mixture or ignition went away!! your overheating suggests a timing issue, but start with a fresh slate at Step#1 and try adjusting valves first.

head unit image not showing up for me. REALLY give them a stern warning about the fragility of the panels before they attempt to remove them. bring them a hair dryer to warm/soften up the panels before they try. even at room temperatures of about 70 degF it's easy to crack them.

ahhhhh gently (Lou Costello) replaced mine with new when i did them. there was plenty of 'give' in them so i didn't even worry about breaking. probably just brittle from age.

i'd punch in the matching sides to the carpet if you have access. that's how the original is (albeit into the diamond vinyl).

checked on RockAuto.com. they list 2 separate Spicers ($7 service grade, $28 professional grade????) but don't differentiate between sides (1 listing for inners, r/s, l/s for outers). possibly no side difference in inner tie rod ends?

thanks for the morning chuckle, Carl. ain't it the truth with most "simple" repairs?

i've got some pics in my gallery. redid front using electrolysis, wirebrush and just rustoleum rattle can paint. go with Will's suggestion tho, check out Ed's suspension. beautifully done and with a great color combo.

anytime you need a kick in the pants to get started, just check out Ed's gallery. one look at the underside of his POR-15/Herculiner'd Z gives me the will to grab a wrench.

ditto on the stands. never trust a jack alone. another thing i did when reassembling was to put a lick of antiseize compound on the line where it passes thru the nuts. did both ends of the hard lines since that's where they usually rust together making it hard to loosen. hopefully won't need PBlaster next time i need to disassemble. also used loctite on the threads, not so much for the locking but to inhibit the threads from rusting. had to replace too many old rusty lines trying to remove and i don't trust the availability of these parts in the future.

looks great, Bruce! i wonder how tight the foam will hold the pieces together. let us know how it holds up in the Az sun. if it lasts, i would definitely consider following your lead. good work!!

same here. never seen that front end before but it gives it a very 'refined' look. i like it.

one thing most of the newbies seem to pick up fairly quick is the more relaxed, mature and friendly attitudes of the folks here. i've noticed on some of their initial posts, they come in with very forceful postings. you can tell some feel they must 'establish' themselves based on their experience at other sites. then, they seem to tone it down when they either read the responses from others here or are told in no uncertain terms that it's not tolerated. i've even been pleasantly surprised when they actually apologize for their mistaken behavior and realize most of those games aren't played here. i cut them slack, because they usually end up being good, respectful members.

got mine here. http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/Datsun/nissan.htm at the time, it was the best price i found, but that could have changed.

shot in the dark here, but did you receive the correct rotors? the first set i got from the parts store mistakenly turned out to be for a 280z. there was a definite height difference (1/4-1/2" IIRC) from rotor face to hub which could account for the heavy grinding.

buy the cd, support this fine club. if you have the room on your hard drive (about 250 mb), copy the cd to your machine. you can access it without the cd, allowing you to put it away for safekeeping.

i'm probably staying with the spray bar, so this sounds like $14 well spent. thanks, Jon