mlc240z

jmortensen:"The turbo pumps have larger gears, and that's what distinguishes them from the stock one. They have a higher flow output because they had to push oil out to the cooler and back. Add Nissan comp springs and now you have the comp pump with higher pressure and volume." that makes sense, Jon. so changing the springs on a stock pump should, at the very least, give a boost in pressure without adding the extra volume of the larger gears.

i've seen the replacement springs for the oil pumps being sold. not sure if there is much of a difference between the replacement NA/turbo springs. is this the way to 'convert' a stock NA oil pump into a turbo pump? or are there other internal differences between the NA and turbo pumps.

uh uh Enrique! No secrets!!! knowing you it'll look perfect so share the fix with everybody. i'm gonna need it for my door panels.

i fashioned a bracket for the passenger side speaker and mounted one in that location. sounds better, but Ron's right, not great. also, if you're gonna put one in there, make sure it's a very shallow speaker. i ran into some interference since it backs right up to the fuel filler neck and the accompanying hoses.

Bob, sounds like that's the way to go. thanks for the info.

Bobc, i'm worried about night vision with these kits. have you noticed swirling or hazyness driving at night after cleaning up the scratches? how about extra glare in the daytime?

MSA's kit includes the pin and round washers retainer for the brake shoes. doesn't include the wheel cylinder retainers.

looks GREAT!! love that shade of blue. what is that color? heavy layer of masking tape on all the bumper edges would also prevent dings.

bought both sides from eBay, one came with and one came without. i considered drilling, tapping and adding grease fitting but eventually didn't.

i would think that no oil would cause the dome to "plummet" and cut off fuel too quickly. if anything the oil would have to be really thick to prevent the piston from dropping.

yea, Tomo not OEM, not for stock show car. good for a driver tho. i especially liked the plastic terminal covers for the posts. helps to protect the + post from shorting against the frame.

i bought the same cables as Ed from eBay/Motor City Imports. i'm quite pleased with them. right length and i prefer the open clamps to the larger lead ends.

check the above first. also, if you had the domes off, check that you didn't accidentally swap domes. they're supposed to be matched to the piston and i would think they might bind if swapped.

yea, it's too bad we can't all meet in person. most of us have really healthy/sick senses of humor and sometimes comments that are said with a wink can be misconstrued as being said maliciously. it would be great to meet up and look over other Zs and exchange ideas face to face. 99% of the time, the info on the site is balls on accurate. most of the guys here have been there, done that and have shared the experiences and info with all of us. occasionally, i have given advice based on my experiences with other cars i have owned, not personal experiences with the Z. some bad parts make the same noise or show the same symptoms/conditions no matter what car they're in. bearing growl is bearing growl, belt squeal is belt squeal, etc. i normally hesitate and post only after i am sure the condition is the same as what's described. i think it just reflects that we all want to help each other and might have a possible solution. there are too many right answers here and when someone posts something incorrect, i think most of us can spot it right away and ignore it. i think this site has attracted members with a level of maturity that other Z sites don't have. most of us know how the world works, don't sweat the small stuff, and don't engage in the speed/hp/ego pissing contests at other sites. we've found a haven here with others who just truly care about our Zcars.

E, yup that's the pic. just looked a little too deep and rounded to me. must be the angle of the shot.

to me it looks like the taillight gasket just draped over the outside of the lens (awaiting installation). nice paint, but i vote for the original finish on the panel.

you forgot some of the most important ones for a 30+yr old car. WIAI- While I'm At It IMAW- I Might As Well .........replace/repair/refurbish these parts that are right next to the part i just replaced/repaired/refurbished.

which by a quick figure on the calculator equals about a 48%-52% f/r weight distribution. not too shabby at all. i was never sure of the figure. sorry for hijacking and thanks for the info, Carl

Carl, Are those front weight specs for LHD models? No driver/passengers? 40 lb difference......battery weight?

agreed Stephen, just using as a diagnostic to eliminate glazed belt.

i'm thinking if it were loose and slipping everytime you heard it, it wouldn't take long to burnish the belt. just something to check with the belt dressing to eliminate it and help narrow it down.

if it's only screeches on sudden acceleration, i'd lean toward the belt too loose idea. retighten and check again. if it slips too much, there is a possibility the belt or pulley could also be glazed. this would definitely cause noise. you could try a shot of belt dressing to test if this quiets it. with a new alternator pulley, could be the paint interfering with good contact with the belt. sand the pulley down to bare metal to test if it's the paint. in my experience, when water pump bearings go/are going they usually emit a constant low moan or growl with the emphasis on constant. sharp screeching from a bearing is usually when they're dry/really damaged and it wouldn't go away when you eased off the gas. this is not from Z experience, just other cars, so i admit i could be way off base. hope you get it fixed Tomo, and let us know how it turns out.

curtis, the minute i read your post, i said "of course, that makes sense". great tip/observation!!

it's got to be a LOT cheaper to fabricate your own. something i was going to do when everything else is done.

what do you use to flush out the dino lube prior to adding synthetic? do you just fill with flush and drain, or do you fill with flush/run car/ and then drain? i can see taking the cover off the diff and cleaning it out first, but i doubt i want to attempt the same thing with the tranny.