mlc240z

welcome nurse, lotta info on this site, good decent, helpful people too. RN or LPN? married and still in love with an almost-nurse (cardiac holter scanner) for the past 28 years, so I know you're good people.

dust bellows........ from the description of easier to replace when you replace tie rod ends by mechanic, it sounds like they mean the steering rack boots.

if i'm reading this right......... are you sure you're not just feeling the normal compression resistance? with the plugs in, you hopefully will be building up compression pressure in the cylinders. as you rotate past TDC in each cylinder and the exhaust valve starts to open, you should feel it get easier to turn since the pressure is released. rotate further and pressure builds again. if this is what's happening, it sounds normal (and desireable since the resistance=compression) to me.

That's truly a shame. He was a wealth of knowledge and willingly shared it with all on this site. You'll be missed, Carl. PS He's probably still watching over us. You have to chuckle at his sick humor. Donations to the Humane society for a guy named Bambikiller.

i use plastic bins (Rubbermaid etc.). you can pick them up in a variety of sizes, they are reasonably priced, they stack, and they seal fairly well. not airtight unfortunately, but enough to keep the dust and varmints out. ziploc bags inside plastic shoebox size to contain smaller parts, then stack inside a larger bin.

bought the BO-52 for the front bumper mounts and they are an envelope type. looks like a quality repro. they enclose the bracket and provide protection front and back. you might have to do a little trimming of the rubber where it surrounds the nut welded to the bracket so it fits over without too much stretching or distortion.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=163149#post163149 2nd page. not a great pic but i used a piece of plexiglas/clear acrylic and cut to fit. only sprayed with a semigloss black, probably add some kind of texture at some point. it seems to work and kinda/sorta looks like the original.

Mike, where did you get that dog-shaped antenna? nice pic!!

can only give you bathroom scale accuracy but with no halfshafts and no diff oil i weighed it at 59lbs. hope this helps

sorry, ROFLthere's more of us out here than you think. if you like Python, you'll enjoy that post.

try this site: http://store.summitracing.com/ they list the Energy Suspension kit for a 1973Z (assume a US model 1973) at $145US, and show international shipping as an option. check site for shipping costs. i've dealt with them before and can recommend them.

#3060 (fat flange) goes facing the rear on the control arm. make sure to use the grease that comes with the kit to prevent squeaks. apply to inside of arm and on sleeve. if you run out, you can use white lithium grease. also if you have access to a vise, precompress the bushings and sleeve assembly before you try to reattach to car. it will save you alot of sweat and cursing. hope this helps.

hit it with a propane torch to soften the rubber bushing. as you are applying heat push the inner sleeve and bushing out. then, just take a hacksaw and carefully cut thru the outer sleeve. soak with a little PBBlaster, Liquid Wrench or Kroil. once thru (carefully check depth), use a chisel or old screwdriver and hammer to knock out the sleeve. that's the way i did it on my front end.

the 2 brass metal sleeves in the pack act as spacers between the cupped washers to stop the bushings from just sliding around. AFAIK washer against the bolt head, bushing, control arm, bushing, washer, sleeve, washer, bushing, sway bar, bushing, washer, and then nut. someone who has used these might have a better response.

if you don't mind me asking, how much did welding in the floorpans and rails cost you? i'm looking at this job down the road and need an approximate cost.

after i've removed and cleaned (wire wheeled/polished) any bolts, i hit them with a light spritz of clear spray enamel/lacquer/polyurethane. it seems to preserve them and help to prevent any future corrosion.

if it walks like a scumbag, and talks like a scumbag, it's probably a sc......... thanks for the headsup. hopefully the info will help warn in the future.

not too much bending, just small adjustments to change the angle and keep it parallel with the cover.

from what i remember in my ZT kit, yes. floats will adjust to same height, but might require a little more fussing with to keep the float tops parallel with the chamber covers.

adjust the floats to the correct height regardless of the pivot height. IIRC, there are three sizes/lengths to the 'ears' that hold the pivot pin. the kit should have extra washers to build up the needle valve if you need to.

240ZX is giving good advice. had an erratic idle until i adjusted valves. problem went away. if it persists after all adjustments are done and you've checked for any external vacuum leaks as Arne suggests, it might be that the throttle plate shaft bushings are shot. put a glob of heavy bearing grease on both sides of the carbs where the throttle plate rod ends(not sure of the exact term) come out. this will temporarily seal any vacuum leaks and allow you to verify if this is the problem. if you have air leaking there, it's not metered and can screw up your idle mixture.

agreed! escellent info, Carl you've got me drooling and patting myself on the back for buying when i did.

Ed, i'd trade undersides with you anyday. excellent point, Carl. i agree with you about a loss in value for a fully restored Z with improperly/over applied undercoating. if strict OEM is what you're looking for, it has to hurt. something to keep in mind depending on your intentions with the Z. however, i don't think most of us here are looking for a garage queen/trophy winner. we want to drive and enjoy it. as long as the process is adequately documented with a fair amount of pics at each stage, it would definitely increase the amount i'd spend on the car. an unknown underbody covered in gunk (like mine!) is worth only so much since i don't know IF it's hiding anything. to see it done with love, care, and pics for documentation........ my wallet would definitely open wider even if it hurt. it would be worth it in the long run knowing i hopefully would NEVER have to touch it again, at least in my lifetime.

Tri-Star, very, very nice!! i can only wish my paint was that good.

i bought my KYB GR2's from the same guy (jdmwerks13) on ebay. no problems, reasonable price and fast shipping. i think some people on the forum had a problem with him but not sure. my experience regarding him was good FWIW.