mlc240z

you don't have to convince me, Dave! i've seen your work and i knew that only a real 'technician' could do it that well!! the comp shifter brings the top of the shifter back a couple of inches and the initial incline should allow it to clear the tunnel without cutting. this is strictly by eyeball, and seems to be confirmed by other postings. i hope, i hope.

yea Jon, Thanks. i was trying to avoid any cutting of the shifter tunnel with the purchase of the comp shifter (i get a little queasy when the words 'cut the Z' are mentioned). i had read that the comp shifter eliminated that necessity so hopefully i won't have to. just curious since Dave didn't mention it.

hey wait a minute, Dave. you do mechanicals, too!:classic: what about the shifter hole? did you have to do any cutting for clearance in 5th gear? this swap is in my future plans ('A' to 'B' first) and since i've read about the clearance issue, i bought the nismo 'S' shaped shifter from Courtesy just in case thanks,

if you've got the coupler disconnected and the thin steel steering shaft separated from by the firewall, just pull the whole rack out. it will be a lot easier to work with it out of the car than trying to play with it mounted. with it properly braced you should be able to use a large chisel as a wedge to force (gently! tap, tap, tap) the clamping ends apart.

no nationalities here. only Z lovers!!! welcome aboard!!

i hear you Garth, unfortunately for me, i believed the PO when he said he had the tank boiled out. i'm really hoping he did and all i had was some rust already inside the hard lines, but i'm skeptical. after blowing the lines out with compressed air, i'll just have to keep an eye on it with fingers crossed.

well, i just got off my arse on the Z to finish my front suspension so i could start the rear suspension and brakes. she ran fine in the fall. over the winter , i added some fuel filters to my usual large MSA parts order. go to change the filter, decide to pull the rubber line from filter down to the hard lines and what did i find? the entire hard line filled with tiny grains of rust!!!!!! so now i must detour and disconnect and blow out all of the hard lines to the tank. you just might have the same problem.

i hate you! yellow's never been my color, but i gotta admit, she looks BEAUTIFUL!!!! hope it all turns out the same as your initial pics, because it seems like you did a damn fine job.

top of transverse link is where the ball joints belong with grease cup/fitting poking thru the hole to the bottom.

stop it, Adam!!!

same here. NGK plugs. you'll prevent a lot of headaches. had to chase down a miss, it turned out to be 2 of 6 brand new Champion plugs. magnacor wires. not that expensive really. got mine from Apex Performance last year for $45 plus shipping.

checked online site and the History Channel is broadcasting the show on April 15th at 7AM EST. set your alarm clocks!

just replaced both ball joints with new Beck Arnley parts. out of the box, one came with grease fitting, one without. WTF i thought all aftermarkets came with a fitting and thought about drilling and tapping before i installed them. didn't bother since the Z is not a daily driver and won't have a ton of miles put on it. so it's possible that they were both replaced already, but then again, at least one might be original. since the noise started after your sway bar install, i'd start looking for a problem there first. i seem to remember reading something about the length of the new swaybar end links causing interference with the control arm. someone else might chime in or try a search for 'end links' to get the exact post.

got the '70-'74 version and find it very useful. i've found that a combination of the Clymer, Haynes, FSM, Parts Microfiche, Wick's 'How to Restore", and Monroe's 'How to Rebuild OHC Engine' will cover just about everything you need. some sections are better (more detailed pics, diagrams, and descriptions) in one book than others. by bouncing between the different books, you can get a better understanding of a problem and hopefully, the fix.

oh, yea!! i think i blew more than an hour and am still sore from kicking myself after doing the same thing. :stupid: bemmerguy, chalk it up to a learning experience. one thing you can be sure of is that you will NEVER do it again!!

http://www.zzxdatsun.com/ worked as of 5:30pm.

i lasted about 4 posts at the other 'zcar' site. very sarcastic, smartass responses to valid questions which were posed only after extensive searching. ran away from there like i was on fire. lurked here for awhile to make sure i wasn't getting into another 'same old' crappy site. was very pleasantly surprised and impressed with the kindness, knowledge , and willingness to help of all members who seemed to really just care ONLY about the Z. it seems a majority of the members (young and old) are definitely more mature and don't sweat the small stuff (i hate pissing contests, i've got better things to do with my time). yes, it can get heated at times. a lot of different people and a lot of different opinions. and we do occasionally get a stiff but that's life. on the whole, you are all a great bunch of guys/gals and i consider this site one of the great resources on the web.

and it's even an automatic. think i'll buy 2 of 'em

welcome just got a new headliner from Motorsport for about $45US. sounded pretty reasonable to me. comes with a can of spray adhesive included. doesn't look to be too hard to replace but time will tell.

if/when you do it, you'll have a customer here.

Will, any luck on fabricating or locating a company to do the replica? i thought about trying this myself, but first i have to get a lid. my ashtray is naked.

timing is everything!! just when i get the cash for them, MSA no longer has a supplier for the screw-on center caps for the slotted mags and therefore they are subsequently NLA from them. i can find the "Z" emblems (thru VB, etc)for them but not the caps. i need the caps for the set of wheels i was going to be using after i cleaned them up, of course. since they are pre-drilled i can't use the push-ons. anybody know of another source for these? thanks in advance

LOVE IT,Bill!!

search is your friend! good tips here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5489&highlight=steering+wood

it probably won't take a lot of cash if it's just the bearings. they're a relatively cheap fix. i used to get mine from the local auto parts store or Grainger's supply house. it's been awhile, but they only averaged $5-$10 each and are a straightforward install. don't overpack with grease by the way.