mlc240z

Dave, if any of the 240z dizzy shafts are okay, go Pertronix. everything fits inside, maintains the stock look, and screw the points. $60-$70 and never touch it again. i'm very happy with the look, ease of maintenance (none!), ease of installation, and reliability. as good as it is, i originally thought some member here (guess who) had designed and manufactured them. bart

ditto on that!! good to hear from you again, Carl. how have you been?

hell E, i'll be the first to bite. i never left my wallet on the console. my baby just 'senses' when there is any cash within a 500 foot radius, and promptly turns the 'auto-suck' on. and the joke of it is, she hasn't even hit the road YET!!!! (oh god, I hope this spring)

no, i think it was the forged/counterfeit documents, i.e. speedometer calibrations he got nailed for, not counterfeit money.

not to wizz on anyone's parade, but i googled this place and found this. http://www.wvec.com/news/vabeach/stories/wvec_local_011106_speedometer_fraud.699cd473.html i might still contact him for parts, wouldn't trust him to work on my car, but it might explain his absence!! ROFL

i don't know, i kinda like it. you've got to acknowledge the handwork and craftmanship. with a Z under the skin, it's reliable and probably hauls arse.

will, that's a pretty simple elegant solution!! i used to insert a long thin spring when bending small tubing to prevent crimping. never even thought about filling with sand and capping. great idea!

another easy way to check for spark in individual wires/plugs is to use the inductive pickup on your timing light. just clamp on each wire and pull the trigger. light=spark no light=no spark that's how i diagnosed my engine miss and discovered 2 bad plugs.

i'll third the motion. if you have to replace it anyway and with the part relatively cheap, buy a new/remanufactured pump and sleep easy. besides the dry seal possibility, you really don't know the condition. it would be a hard lesson to have the shaft snap and launch the fan into your radiator. your free fan might cost you a new $30 pump and a new $200 radiator.

looks pretty good!! what was the name of the product?

Enrique, reading your description i find myself curiously arousedROFLROFL

newer tire compounds prevent static discharge. diff tires can be better. you could attach and drag a grounding strap. what i do is keep my key in hand and touch a metal body part with it as i leave. the key takes the static 'hit' and discharges the jolt.

$25 and he recycled the old tires, $2/tire. disposal can be problematic here. done in 15 mins.

$25 and he recycled the old tires, $2/tire. disposal can be problematic here done in 15 mins.

when they say 'no slit on rear deck section', what do they mean? is that for the front luggage straps?

try packing some heavy grease onto the ends of the throttle shafts and see if the idle improves. this will somewhat slow/stop the air leakage and help in diagnosis.

try reading here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=140238#post140238 http://www.zcarsource.com/ has them. they also pop up on ebay from time to time

don't know if you would have any melting issues with a plain ziploc. motor use creates a little heat. might need to use one of those 'baking' bags.

you want '70's, here ya go. this (Audiovox 4 speaker amp/fader/equalizer) goes in next whenever i can find an unobtrusive place to mount it.

Arne, you've got great taste. i'll try to attach a pic of my US version.

ditto on the wheel bearing grease. i had the grease fittings on 1 side and a plastic plug on the other side which i replaced with a grease fitting. shot it with the grease gun and all seems well. never heard about the gl4 oil being used, i'd be interested to hear more.

when i pulled them all out to do the heater core, i removed the cables from the housings. did a quick clean with thinner, light scuff with emery paper and relubed with a little white lithium grease. fed back into cable housings, worked back and forth to distribute the lithium and reinstalled. between that and cleaning/lubing pivot points, operation was smoother and bind-free. if your heart's set on replacing, i've read that motorcycle cabling is the same solid wire as OEM.

IMHO, if you're taking everything off anyway, spend the $100 or so and replace the whole timing kit, chain, tensioner, guides etc. you can always sleep better knowing it's all new even after you fix the 'original' problem.

Dave, got the harness today. Dude, you are to be congratulated on the professional job you do. GREAT WORK!!! if Datsun had you in the early '70's, we wouldn't be nagging you now. it would have been done right in the beginning. i was going to start the rear suspension this weekend, but the dreaded IMAW/WIAI's struck on the parking lights. new relay/harness requires refurbed front fixtures, lenses (rears were already done). since ease of access required removal of front bumper, now also doing bumper mounts, brackets etc. etc. etc. i'll let you know how the harness turns out but i'm probably safe by saying 'HOLY SH*****T' right now and just getting it out of the way. thanks again

my son and i (neither of us are that beefed) lugged my spare engine about 75-100 feet (took a few breaks along the way) and then loaded it into the back of my escort wagon. engine was minus the clutch, int/carbs and exhaust manifolds though. it's heavy, but surprisingly not THAT heavy. i'd suggest at LEAST 3 guys, especially since you'll probably have to lift it higher than my little wagon. and yes, i drove it home about 15 miles in that little POS wagon. i was amazed but i made it home.