mlc240z

i'll just have to go blind the old fashioned way. (nudge, nudge, wink, wink, say no more, say no more) take your time, i'm starting the rear suspension (gulp) anyway.

FWIW, left is front according to my parts bin. i have these (longer tail, no inside notch) attached to a front overrider bar. however, they didn't come mounted on the car so i cannot conclusively verify it. hope this helps.

i love having the 'problem' of connecting TWO of Dave's harnesses. heh heh heh

yup, that's it. 2 harnesses, same place on the + cable. i can't see any problems, just making sure.

PM on it's way. Do you foresee any problems piggybacking the power wire to the headlight harness connection? thanks

radio shack, as well

got my pertronix ($70 US) at: http://www.vintageperformance.com/retrorockets/Datsun/nissan.htm can also highly recommend: https://www.rockauto.com don't about int'l shipping, tho' hope this helps

while trying to remove the OEM unit, it snapped off at the block. i picked up a new unit and was surprised with the different style connector. fortunately, there was enough meat left on the OEM unit so i drilled out the snapped portion and was able to 'repair' the sender. i didn't use the new type, but if i did, i thought i would just make a short jumper wire with the two different types of connectors to bridge the connection. i wouldn't even think of hacking up my harness just in case i came across an OEM unit someday. why not just do that. hope this helps.

alex240z, it's gratifying to see that you have your priorities straight ROFLROFL

agree with the rest on the plugs, stick with NGK's. too many horror stories about other brands to ignore. i am happy with the magnecor 8mm wires. good spark delivery, engine smoothed out nicely and fires right up. definitely agree with the points upgrade. i used the pertronix since it was relatively cheap (about $65-$70 IIRC) but mostly to maintain the OEM look, since it all fits under the cap and looks stock. car starts and runs very smooth and you probably will never have to touch them again. i remember what a PITA replacing and setting points every 5-10k miles or so was. don't have any experience with MSD or Crane but i understand they are also a very good option. hope this helps.

got my kyb gr-2's on ebay for $118, $143 delivered to my door. less than $36 each which i thought was pretty reasonable. monroe's were $34 fronts, $46 rears online, could be cheaper elsewhere. i don't know how much less napa's would be. kyb's have a decent rep, so i don't think price is that much of a concern. tokico's are where the $$$'s are. the performance should be better but you normally get what you pay for.

definitely related to the IMAW's. as long as i have the heater box out to replace the valve, I Might As Well boil out the heater core. as long as i have the heater core out, I Might As Well clean and paint the box and replace all the gaskets and relube the hinges and control cables and replace all the hoses etc etc etc.......... if it's your daily driver, these diseases can be fatal. if it's your toy, you take the time and just smile as you're doing it.

had this same problem with a '73 (ahem) Pinto.:tapemouth yea, i know but fortunately it was a girlfriend's car. it turned out to be distributor shaft bearings were worn out. at idle, timing would bounce all over the place and car would run crappier than usual. if yours is severely worn, it might possibly cause some contact with the magnet, although that sounds a little too extreme. fractured magnet could have been a coincidence.

got it arne. just a few to get you started: http://www.datsunzparts.com/start.htm http://www.baddogparts.com/ http://www.zcarsource.com/ http://www.zbarn.com/

beeeuuuteefullll, Rick. what paint did you use on your suspension? not quite semi gloss/ not quite flat. what color did you use on your engine? from experience, i know it's not old ford blue (i made that mistake). chrysler blue maybe?

Kenny's right. if you don't get it up to temp and really run it, you won't burn off any water vapor that's created from running your engine. all that moisture will just sit in your exhaust and crankscase, etc until the spring. it will rot your exhaust prematurely, help turn your oil to sludge and do all the things that water trapped in an engine likes to do. you'll also draw down your battery since you won't necessarily have it running long enough to replace the juice it takes to start it. if you prepped it right for the winter's sleep, she'll be fine in the spring.

very nice!! haven't gotten to the rear yet, but i like that color combo.

absolutely!! doesn't matter if anybody else knows, I know it looks good, even great for a 30+ yr old car. although i can't wait to watch the faces of any mechanics who see it up on a lift. that will be a bonus!

thanks guys, perfect pics. kinda what i thought but it's great to have confirmation from someone who's done it before. thanks again

installing the delrin/aluminum/rubber bushing kit for the tension rods. everything fits well, but does anyone have a hint on installing the black boots that are supplied? do they just fit flush 'into' the cups attached to the frame? i would think they are supposed to fit over the cups to help seal the assembly and prevent dirt/water from entering and prematurely wearing the delrin. if this is true, any tips to getting the edge of the boot over the cup since it's pretty tight in there (heat until more pliable, maybe). thanks