mlc240z

a very, very light coating of silicone on the Oring might help it to seal.

i always thought that was a sign of weak struts/shocks. if you are getting straight line wheel hop, then you have virtually no dampening of the spring rebound at all. when you are cornering and the tire bounces, you lose grip on that tire. all the force is then "transferred" (lousy reference but i hope you see what i mean) to the other wheel. more force overcomes other wheel's grip, or that tire hits some bump also and lifts. someone who knows suspensions can probably explain it better or correct me if wrong. assuming stock spring rates, i'd agree about checking the struts.

thanks arne, never ran into this problem, but good info gotten from experience is always valuable.

i'd reset them. it's got to affect the steering geometry by having them in the middle of the opening. i'm sure someone here knows a lot more about front ends than i do and could explain the effect.

time to build a bigger garage! welcome!

is it possible the cotter pin is bent over in such a way that it is interfering with the correct fit of the dust cap? is the cap dimpled in the center from hammering it back on? both would affect the clearance of the inside of the cap and the stub

i got lucky since i saved an old twin post pioneer AM/FM casette from one of my old cars. just had to make a face panel from plexiglass. not great but a coat of black paint and it will pass for now. one other thing i noticed when i added the pass/side speaker is that you have to be careful of the depth of the speaker. use as shallow a speaker as you can get if buying new. a standard depth (don't have the specs) speaker's magnet will hit against some of the vent hoses preventing or at least making it difficult to replace the side panels. i fabricated a mirror image bracket and was able to fit an old aftermarket speaker barely. it will do for now, but i will be replacing with a shallower set. if using OEM speakers, the magnet size might not be an issue since i believe they are a much smaller diameter and might clear any obstructions.

most any auto parts store(chains or local), sometimes even hardware stores.

never thought about using anti-seize compound. i used a light coating of white lithium grease. any advantages to anti-seize?

dammit, ed!! another item on my must-do list and i'm running out of paper. that looks GREAT and should be just about bulletproof.

you can get the carb bodies rebuilt (w/roller bearings) for $225+core. i rebuilt with their kit this year (coudn't afford the $600). i think i'm going to send my bodies to them over the winter to have them rebuilt. won't look as pretty as the full job, but the $$$ i save will be used elsewhere on the Z. might be an option worth considering.

self-tapping screw and visegrips might work. soak with PBBlaster or equivalent, screw sized to grab inside diameter and then work out with pliers or visegrips.

how about a loose or worn valve seat?

ain't that the truth!!!

welcome, you're a HERO in my book. enjoy that good-looking Z, and use the site. there's a lot of good info here and the guys/gals are among the most helpful you'll find. get well soon.

DatsunZguy (might be taken) has a nice ring to it, don't you think? as far as i can tell, it was just a matter of time and a couple of drives. Enjoy!

glad it worked!! i use the old race on top of the new race. place the new into position and the old inverted (thin edge against thin edge) at first to start. once you get the new below the face of the hub, pull off old and place in same direction as new. tap on top of the old race to seat. by inverting you don't damage the new race's bearing surface. by placing in same direction, when you finally get the new seated you now have the bottom of the old jutting out so you have a surface to pop the old out with a punch. it's difficult to explain well, but you'll see why placing in the same direction is necessary when you go to extract the old.

i don't have my microfiche cd yet but you might be able to still get these from the dealer. somebody might be able to look up the part#.

wow, an Opel GT. they were pretty cool cars in their time.

i just popped these off saturday. let them soak with PBBlaster for a while. i used a tapered chisel driven between the back of the studs and the center face of the rotor. tapped slowly and worked around the perimeter of the hub, a little at a time. the chisel acted as a wedge to separate the pieces.

go with ZT. besides better quality parts and the video, you get to pick their brains when you install if you run into any problems. Bruce Palmer and the gang are good sources of info.

doesn't leak oil, just blows a diaphram and pushes gas into the crankcase.

the rear suspension is next on the agenda and you guys are scaring the wizz out of me!!!!!