mlc240z

No input, just to say I hate you. Engine bay looks great!!!! Wish I had the time and guts to strip mine and do it as "right" as you've done. Well, maybe when I retire in 11 years. Keep up the great work!

Glad I saw this. So $240 front and $315 rear (all pieces) equals $555 total for both Brandy spanking New, when most places charge $700+ just to rechrome? And about $1300 in SS? Am I reading that right or is something wrong with this picture?

Jetaway, There is a tool for this job. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WMR-W158C/ But I'm surprised it took that much force. I'm not that beefy but I usually just grip with a large pair of pliers and push in to compress. Then while holding the spring in, I can reach to the back and rotate the post with my free hand to engage the slotted washer. I do these first before hooking up the return springs. The retainer helps to hold the shoes while I force the returns back on. Those are the ones that usually give more of a headache.

Definitely soak not only the flare nuts but the back side where the brake line goes through the nut with PBlaster. Repeatedly over a couple of days. When I did my rear brakes, the soaked flare nut on the driver's side came off fairly easy, but the line had rusted itself to the nut and twisted with the nut. Snapped it right off. I had to replace the entire rear line with a used part from Roger at ZBarn (GREAT source for parts). Lesson learned. If the nut loosens a bit, try tightening, then loosening, tight, loose etc. to help break the line free from the nut.

Agree, you still have air in the system. On a Z the longest brake line run is the driver's rear, different from most cars. So start to bleed in order, driver's rear > pass rear > pass front > driver front. Pump brakes slowly, full strokes and then hold. Have someone open bleeder while maintaining pressure until pedal goes to floor. Then shut bleeder and repeat until you no longer get any air bubbles released. Make sure to have a tube going from bleeder to a container of brake fluid so you're not sucking air back in to the system when you release the pedal.

OK, I gotta know. What exhaust are you running? That really is the sound I'm looking for.

Good to hear, Arne. How is your tach? Does it still show rpm's thru to 6-7K? Does it bounce around after 4K? Are you running the original '71 tach?

Was the drop sudden, always like that or gradually dropped? Has the engagement point changed? Grinding going into gears? If distance always the same, probably just mis-adjusted from the beginning and an adjustment will take care of it. If sudden or gradual, I'd be looking at the master/slave for problems or leaks.

That's truly a shame. Roger's good people. Condolences to him and his family.

Gotta love Roger! Excellent source for those hard to find parts.

Can't say enough good about Roger. If anything, he UNDER-states the condition of the parts he sells. He said 'good' condition on a hard brake line, it looked like it was only a couple of years old. And it was 40 years old. I send him a little more than the price he quotes. First, because the prices are reasonable anyway. Second, he offers priceless info. Third, he helps keep our 'babies' on the road, and the older they get, the more we need a resource like him.

Rock Auto has the Beck-Arnley for $40 plus shipping. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

I'm with Marty. PO had replaced master, original slave. Mine started to slip out after driving fine for months. 2nd and 3rd when I really jumped on it. Replaced the slave (had a little trouble bleeding, got it eventually) but after that no more slip. Your slave might be going.

Are these tall enough to clear the dust cap on the front bearings? Or do you need to leave them off or 'flatten" the dust cap for proper fit?

That's about the same as Denver according to the quote I just got. "We are currently getting $275.00 for the front bumper. The rear center section is $125.00 and each end piece is $100.00. The bumper guards will set you back $65.00 each." But you pay for shipping. So cost is a about a wash. If you need bumpers done, NuChrome is cheaper.

Puts mine to shame! But at least it's another Z in NJ. Welcome, you've hit one of the best sites for Z's. Hope to see you on the road sometime.

I hope I'm wrong because the implications are nasty, but could you have a body flex/rust issue in the rear somewhere? Panels or parts moving, rubbing or separating when they should be solid? The clicking sound and then groan might indicate it. Don't know how easy it would be to see or localize without putting some type of stress on the chassis.

1 hour aerobatic ride in a biplane. http://www.redbaronairtours.com/ Now to prepare the puke bags.

Now that's (don't take this the wrong way!) good old yankee ingenuity. Cheap, creative solution to a problem. Hope it lasts a good long while. Nice work!

Hey, free is good!

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=26710 Left resistor in place and just connected red Pertronix to power side of resistor effectively bypassing it. Make sure you clean the terminal to get the best contact.

Excellent Kenny! I'm assuming that the truck bed liner has more UV blockers since it's for exterior so that should wear really well and resist sun better than OEM. Do you think you'll have a problem with cracking since it's on a flexible dash as opposed to a metal truck bed? Looks like you used the spray can and not the roller from the evenness of the finish.

Don't think so. Also, HybridZ seller replied and said they were all gone anyway. Damn!

From Dan (240dkw): Bart, Mark, Koalia,Steve, Arnie and Ron: I ordered two masts from the seller at the Hybridz site on the off chance they were the correct ones. I just received them today and they are the real deal. I asked him how many has left, but have not heard back. Here is the link to the ad http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/...l-100s-listed/ and here is the text in the ad. Nos (New Old stock) Antenna's ( the part that comes up ,Not the motors)(got a truck load of nos parts these were in there Not sure If they are the for the z just know they are for really old Nissan) x25 in stock $25 each feel free to pass this along to anyone else. I did a search on the site and picked names that were looking for them. Dan

Sorry for the bad link, I should have gone a little further. A little more research and came up with Devcon Corp, who apparently bought up Syon/VersaChem. Same corp that owns/is Permatex, so they might have just bought up the competition since the Permatex defogger repair is probably the more well known brand.