mlc240z

jeez, i thought katz must have bionic eyes.

kenz, how did you treat the rust, if any, before the primer on the front suspension parts? i can't afford the bead blasting and am looking into trying the electrolytic method. seems cheap and easy but i don't know how effective it will be. thanks, bart

a jiffy lube oil/diff oil change?????? for your penance, replace your spindle pins. that should keep you busy for a while.

ANYBODY who puts on a uniform, and risks his life and/or safety so we can enjoy the lives we choose, qualifies as a HERO in my book. Thanks for your service and don't ever think it's not appreciated. Bart

lost mine in 1995, i definitely agree. he wasn't a racer but i know he would have gotten a MAJOR kick out of the Z.

another possibility is the gland nut on strut towers. clunk on acceleration or over bumps? check about 1/2 way down page for clunk over bumps. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/probs.html

arse-end looks kinda Zish. rest of the car reminds me more of an Aston Martin DB series. sweet looking, expensive cars.

it's history. thanks guys

anybody????

i used the vb w/strip for the rear hatch and was pleased with the fit and quality. price was a lot less than others, so i took the chance. can't comment on the windshield since i haven't replaced it.

the last oem mast i saw on ebay went for $38.51. mine still works, but has a few dings that slightly affect operation. i was thinking about buying a generic mast with the same outer dimensions to use as a replacement since the oem's are no longer available direct from the mfgr. they apparently aren't even available from oem mfgrs like horada either. the last time i talked with MSA, they said they were looking into another supplier for the masts, so i guess they are responding to the demand for this part. i have a feeling you could use a generic and just cut the nylon stepped tape to the proper length, maybe? but i still need to measure the outer diameter and length. bart

my PO had painted the car to sell it, not to keep it. i haven't ever gotten into bodywork, i don't know if i have any talent for it. i always figured the paint job, no matter how 'just OK', just bought me time. i have spent most of my $$$'s on the mechanicals, weatherstripping, electrical, interior, etc. getting the car in the best shape i can. the paint job will buy me enough time to save for the 'proper' treatment down the road.

are you talking about the hatch glass weatherstripping, inner seal, or upper outer seals around the opening? i just replaced mine (as EVERYBODY on the site probably knows from my postings:classic:). i found it much easier to remove hatch for all, since you're only talking about 4 screws(hinges) and 2 bolts(support rod).

had the same problem. mine used to stay at same rpm's and 'chatter' in fast speed. tried lubing pivots and linkage, no joy. took it apart and found burnt windings and 1of3 brushes stuck in holder. thought about the honda motor swap, but didn't want to cut up my bracket. i wound up contacting john@baddogparts.com (great to deal with BTW) and bought a used motor for $45($35+s/h). works 1000% better than mine. they're still not fast, but now at least much closer to original. hope this helps. bart

here's a pic of the cover, not the best but it should give you some idea. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34206&item=4547173559&rd=1

just adjust your door striker out a little bit. after a while (unsure how long) readjust as the weatherstripping compresses. better than slamming the door, since i believe you run the risk of racking the door or breaking something.

reality sucks!!! bean is right, it will cost a LOT more than you have planned for. it becomes a case of the 'might as well's", as in "while i have the console apart, I might as well replace the heater core, valve and hoses ($160)." as long as i have to take the hatch glass out to remove louver clips, i "might as well" replace all the weatherstripping ($150)". but as it moves along, you begin to realize what great cars these are and the fact that your money is repaid to you when you drive. congrats and welcome to the club.

if it's a stuck solenoid, sometimes you can jar it by tapping the solenoid with a hammer. not too hard, just enough to break it free. this will allow it to extend the gear and engage the flywheel. if it is the flywheel, just spotted on ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34202&item=4546951574&rd=1 however, being in ca. you should be able to find one in the junkyard. by the way, welcome to the club. just realize it's not just a car, it really does become an obsession!:cheeky:

i always say timing is everything. you just missed these. i was watching them and was going to bid on them as a 'just in case' part for the future. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7971005856&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

hell, i'd settle for a decent 1st gen ashtray lid. thought of trying this myself with a local plastic mfgr.

on the 72 camaro i owned many moons ago i routed a kill switch from ground to the + side of the coil. routed the wire so it looked stock and buried the switch. figured the worst i might find is a dead battery from overcranking. not the most elegant (i like the magnetic switch idea), but pretty simple and easy to do. hopefully just enough to make it enough of a pain in the arse to get the JOs to try another car.

that sucks bud. i'd rather be locked in a room with the dirtbag/s and get to beat the crap out of them myself. it's gotta give you SOME satisfaction. hope it was just some JO out for a joyride and they can find and return your baby intact. condolences

used Permatex black silicone adhesive/sealant about $5 per tube at parts store. probably get it a little cheaper at walmart,kmart etc. i used the small tube as opposed to the large caulking gun style because it was easier to maneuver, wasn't sure if i needed the extra (didn't want to waste it), and i could get a finer bead with the tip. apply adhesive, place corner, then use masking tape to secure until adhesive sets. if you are missing the little outer rubber on the channel to capture the trim (on my old weatherstrip they were worn off) you probably HAVE to use masking tape to secure.

just did whole hatch glass and weatherstrip. my corners were missing already. when i researched the corner trim attachment, i read that these are susceptible to falling off. it was recommended to use the adhesive just on the corners. sorry, can't remember exactly where i read it (i think Wick Humble's Restore book), but that's the way i attached mine. bart

a lot also depends on location. here in the northeast, even a rusted Z can fetch $4-6K if you can find them at all. west coast has a larger supply so from what i've seen the cost can be a lot cheaper for the same condition car. you will turn more heads out here tho, since you rarely see them on the road. cvp911t, post your location to get a more accurate price.