mlc240z

Those small rounded heads are on finishing nails. Lowe's, Home Depot or any hardware store carries them. Sizes 4d and 6d are way too loose. 8d is close, but 10d might fit the best. Had 4,6,8 in the house, have to buy 10d to try. Snip the shaft to length and paint ends. PITA but definitely a cheaper alternative to buying rivets just to replace lost pins. You can buy 2-3 pounds of nails for the same price as a bag of 10 rivets.

How about a 4d or 6d finishing nail (not sure of size, haven't tried it yet)? Cut it to length. It has just a small diameter head that won't slip thru, yet would just protrude enough to grab with a needle nose pliers. It is rounded to prevent snags or scraping if you brushed by it. Paint the tips black or your interior color. I'm going to experiment cause I'm tired of retrieving the pins.

Contacted MSA and Prothane. Need to remove outer shells to fit properly. Hope this helps anyone else doing this replacement.

Sorry Carl, yes fronts. Haven't disassembled yet, still soaking everything down with penetrating oil. Was going to do the whole smash at the same time, control arms, tension rods, steering rack/coupler, and swaybar along with front s/s brake lines. Probably going to paint/cleanup all the components too. I like to have as much info before I start, kind of cuts down on the 'surprises' later. Thanks Bart

Yea, I know but it's Sunday in California too. Was going to get a jump on it today but I guess it'll have to wait until tomorrow.

Just got bushings from MSA (Prothane brand) delivered, checked their site and they state that some bushings are designed to use the original OEM outer sleeves, some not. All the info I have on replacing these say to press out/ hacksaw out the outer sleeves before installing Poly bushings to allow for the extra clearance but not specifically this brand. Hard to see if they'd fit with or without since I don't know how much compression (if any) is needed for install. Anybody put MSA/Prothane control arm bushings in and did you need to remove outer sleeves? I'd hate to cut them out and then need them to fill a gap.

Had another distributor from a late 71/72, so I tried the magnet on that shaft. It fit nice and tight just the way it should. It's not a wear issue, there is a definite size difference on the early 71 distributor cam lobes. So I swapped the shafts and reinstalled. Works the same (probably better at higher revs) but I have a little more peace of mind knowing that the fit is right. Just a heads up if anyone is doing this install on an 70-early 71 Z. Thanks for the info Carl

That's what I felt, but it only seemed to 'lock' to the shaft when I placed the rotor into position. I would have thought that it would be a tighter friction fit by itself without the clamping pressure of the rotor. While the shaft lobes have some wear, it didn't seem that bad. I was afraid the magnet was sized slightly too large for my year Z, and just wanted to see if anyone else ran into the same situation. She runs fine, definitely better than points, much smoother, no choke cold starts, and seems to be well worth the money. I'll probably check with pertronix to verify. Thanks

followed these instructions on my '71. works like a charm. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10538&highlight=tach

I just installed the Pertronix Ignition on my 1971 240z. I just wanted to check on one thing. Is it normal for the round magnet that goes on the lobed dizzy shaft to be a relatively 'loose' fit? I expected it to be tighter and more of a snap fit. It went on easily but I expected it to conform to the lobes and be 'locked' into the shaft rotation. Magnet was fully seated and not riding high. I was able to easily turn the shaft without moving the magnet, but after I replaced the rotor it seemed to move with the shaft. Sound right?

Not sure if they changed among 70-71, but it's only a little 'L' shaped piece of chrome attached by screws from the outside of the tray. I don't have the ashtray base for the later console to compare, just the console and the sliding cover. I think I am going to fabricate the snuffer from sheet metal and make an attempt at the cover, after I go thru all the other 'little' things an old Z demands.

Does anybody know where I can find a cover and metal ashtray 'snuffer' (metal piece you crush cigarettes out on) for a '71 tray in front of the shift console without coughing up the appropriate lung for an ebay original part? I can't find these anywhere, and with the high probability for breakage for this part, I can't believe someone hasn't come up with a replacement aftermarket part. I also have a console from I believe a late '71-'72 (silver slide ashtray behind the shift) but I'd really like to keep my '71 as stock as possible. I was even looking to fabricate the part and see if I could get some company to manufacture them since they seem to be in such short supply, but it's hard to even find the part in the first place. Thanks to all

Have a 71 240z. harada original power antenna installed. no bag, don't think it's original. anyone know where to get replacement masts or a substitute? nobody seems to carry them anymore.