mlc240z

any particular reason you don't use windex on the inside of windshield?

oww, my head now officially hurts...... zguitar, i appreciate the first hand info on the 3.54, that's what i'm looking for if i can swing a deal on a 3.54. curtis, unfortunately money is the main reason i have to postpone the 5spd swap. just got my baby and i'm trying to take care of all the 'little' (read expensive) things before i move on to the big modifications. gary, what year if you know? even though a stick maxima might be harder to find here than a Z, it's an enticing option. just want to know why my dream of unlimited funds, a warehouse of new parts and a built-in lift in my garage can't come true. many thanks for all the input. this is what i needed to help make the call on a swap.

not using as a daily driver, just for occasional fun. already had that site in my lllonnggg list of bookmarks, great info. with the 4spd, kind of figured the higher buzz at highway speeds, 5spd swap is one of my dreams. here in the northeast, Z anything in the junkyards is hard to find (rust). so i figured if i could get a 3.54 reasonably priced, and i was pulling everything down to replace bushings and mounts anyway.................. i like the idea of the 3.70, seems like a good 'compromise' but from my research, the 3.70 was an r200 and that involves the half shaft/mustache/possible flange swap. i don't think i have access to all the parts and i don't think i'm brave enough to tackle that yet.

was wondering if it was worth swapping r180 at diff(3.54) into my 71Z with stock mt diff(3.36)? i know the way everybody goes is with the better ratio (3.90 and 4.11) R200's, but i might be able to get one cheap. i'm guessing it would be a no modification direct bolt-on since they're both r180's. i assume it would be a small improvement off the line, but if anyone here has experience or thoughts, i'd appreciate the input. if it's a tiny improvement, it wouldn't be worth the trouble unless my original dies. thanks guys.

Congrats, she shines!!

nuteman, good to hear that they didn't hassle you over some 'odd' specs just because it's an older car. I wasn't sure if DMV has some special criteria for an older Z. I'm going to add the headlight relays to be able to use halogen sealed beams without taxing the fusebox/wiring. The stock headlights leave alot to be desired on the brightness scale. From what I've been reading, you're probably going to have to start saving up to boil out the gas tank. I got lucky since the PO had it done (hopefully good). But I know what you mean about finding a trustworthy mechanic, they're like gold. That's one of the reasons I do most of my own work. Many little things to fix on a 31 year old Z, NAAAAAHHH!!!!

Hey Nuteman and Bunky Scott! Nice to find some other NJ Z's. What exactly were you failing on? I'll be going thru the same crap when I finally put mine on the road in the spring. Did they give you a hard time on anything in particular (emissions etc.)? Did you do the work yourself or have you found a good Z mechanic? I'm looking for Z experienced shops myself. Thanks

Those small rounded heads are on finishing nails. Lowe's, Home Depot or any hardware store carries them. Sizes 4d and 6d are way too loose. 8d is close, but 10d might fit the best. Had 4,6,8 in the house, have to buy 10d to try. Snip the shaft to length and paint ends. PITA but definitely a cheaper alternative to buying rivets just to replace lost pins. You can buy 2-3 pounds of nails for the same price as a bag of 10 rivets.

How about a 4d or 6d finishing nail (not sure of size, haven't tried it yet)? Cut it to length. It has just a small diameter head that won't slip thru, yet would just protrude enough to grab with a needle nose pliers. It is rounded to prevent snags or scraping if you brushed by it. Paint the tips black or your interior color. I'm going to experiment cause I'm tired of retrieving the pins.

Contacted MSA and Prothane. Need to remove outer shells to fit properly. Hope this helps anyone else doing this replacement.

Sorry Carl, yes fronts. Haven't disassembled yet, still soaking everything down with penetrating oil. Was going to do the whole smash at the same time, control arms, tension rods, steering rack/coupler, and swaybar along with front s/s brake lines. Probably going to paint/cleanup all the components too. I like to have as much info before I start, kind of cuts down on the 'surprises' later. Thanks Bart

Yea, I know but it's Sunday in California too. Was going to get a jump on it today but I guess it'll have to wait until tomorrow.

Just got bushings from MSA (Prothane brand) delivered, checked their site and they state that some bushings are designed to use the original OEM outer sleeves, some not. All the info I have on replacing these say to press out/ hacksaw out the outer sleeves before installing Poly bushings to allow for the extra clearance but not specifically this brand. Hard to see if they'd fit with or without since I don't know how much compression (if any) is needed for install. Anybody put MSA/Prothane control arm bushings in and did you need to remove outer sleeves? I'd hate to cut them out and then need them to fill a gap.

Had another distributor from a late 71/72, so I tried the magnet on that shaft. It fit nice and tight just the way it should. It's not a wear issue, there is a definite size difference on the early 71 distributor cam lobes. So I swapped the shafts and reinstalled. Works the same (probably better at higher revs) but I have a little more peace of mind knowing that the fit is right. Just a heads up if anyone is doing this install on an 70-early 71 Z. Thanks for the info Carl

That's what I felt, but it only seemed to 'lock' to the shaft when I placed the rotor into position. I would have thought that it would be a tighter friction fit by itself without the clamping pressure of the rotor. While the shaft lobes have some wear, it didn't seem that bad. I was afraid the magnet was sized slightly too large for my year Z, and just wanted to see if anyone else ran into the same situation. She runs fine, definitely better than points, much smoother, no choke cold starts, and seems to be well worth the money. I'll probably check with pertronix to verify. Thanks

followed these instructions on my '71. works like a charm. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10538&highlight=tach

I just installed the Pertronix Ignition on my 1971 240z. I just wanted to check on one thing. Is it normal for the round magnet that goes on the lobed dizzy shaft to be a relatively 'loose' fit? I expected it to be tighter and more of a snap fit. It went on easily but I expected it to conform to the lobes and be 'locked' into the shaft rotation. Magnet was fully seated and not riding high. I was able to easily turn the shaft without moving the magnet, but after I replaced the rotor it seemed to move with the shaft. Sound right?

Not sure if they changed among 70-71, but it's only a little 'L' shaped piece of chrome attached by screws from the outside of the tray. I don't have the ashtray base for the later console to compare, just the console and the sliding cover. I think I am going to fabricate the snuffer from sheet metal and make an attempt at the cover, after I go thru all the other 'little' things an old Z demands.

Does anybody know where I can find a cover and metal ashtray 'snuffer' (metal piece you crush cigarettes out on) for a '71 tray in front of the shift console without coughing up the appropriate lung for an ebay original part? I can't find these anywhere, and with the high probability for breakage for this part, I can't believe someone hasn't come up with a replacement aftermarket part. I also have a console from I believe a late '71-'72 (silver slide ashtray behind the shift) but I'd really like to keep my '71 as stock as possible. I was even looking to fabricate the part and see if I could get some company to manufacture them since they seem to be in such short supply, but it's hard to even find the part in the first place. Thanks to all

Have a 71 240z. harada original power antenna installed. no bag, don't think it's original. anyone know where to get replacement masts or a substitute? nobody seems to carry them anymore.