mlc240z

With the PBlaster, it almost makes you 'confident' when tackling rusted fasteners. Just be patient and soak for a few days and tap them to set up vibrations to help draw the solvent into the connection. Only broke 2 bolts and they were body fasteners. Haven't snapped anything important on the suspension or the engine yet.

Amazon has a Sunex 30mm crows foot for $5. Never heard of the brand, don't know it's quality, but I doubt for the price it's 'industrial' grade. But it might be enough to do the job and throw away.

Skip the WD-40. It's useless on rusted fasteners. At least useless by comparison. Buy some PBlaster or Kroil. I've used PBlaster since I read about it on this forum and it is SO much better than LiquidWrench (which used to be my standby).

Could definitely be a worn out clutch, but...... Similar thing recently happened to me. Noticed it would begin to happen after the car was running for a while on a longer trip, but got progressively worse. Thought the 'new' PO-supposedly installed clutch might not have been new or not installed. Figured something was adjusted too far out that was interfering with the clutch's ability to 'grab'. Started looking into the whole system. New master (PO installed) and original adjustable slave, worn clevis pin and worn, elongated receiving hole in the pedal arm. Figured the PO had to adjust the slave rod all the way out to accommodate the slop in the linkage. So it was time to correct the obvious problem child/children. Replaced the slave (many recommend to replace both if you have to replace either master or slave). Purchased a new clevis to remove some of the slop. I'll eventually get to welding the elongated pedal hole and re-drilling. Bled the system and now had the opposite problem. Grinding gears and couldn't get it into reverse. OK, enough about my issue. Did a search and (sorry, can't find the post) found somebody suggested to check the adjustment on the clutch master push rod (thank you whoever it was, never would have thought that). If the locking nut isn't tightened properly, it can eventually 'walk' its way out affecting the amount of stroke when you push the pedal. So between the new clevis, the master adjust, the new slave and the slave adjust, she engages 1/3 (?) of the way up instead of just off the floor (feels right) and pulls like a banshee and still has what seems to be the right amount of freeplay so I don't tax the throwout bearing. Try adjusting the throw of the pedal by checking/adjusting the master push rod. At the least, it might buy you enough time until your winter change-out. At most it might show you don't need a clutch replacement at all. Sorry, but I'm a little long winded tonight. Hope this helps.

Yup, vertical wires on the hatch defroster and later emblems match what I have on my 5/71 mfg Z.

Definitely an odd way, but from what I can see that looks very NICE. Don't know if it's worth that much tho.

Sarah, Not just from sub-par equipment. Don't forget it's 32 years old. Years of hot/cold temperature cycling from daily start-up/run/cool-down can cause even 'good' solder joints to fail. Found it on a lot TV and PC monitor circuit boards that are in climate controlled rooms all day, not out in the weather and/or subject to engine heat. If you can pull the board and inspect the bottom with a magnifying glass, you might be able to see the separation and do a quick fix with a soldering gun to re-flow the solder. Fixed more than a few that way. As far as introducing a little extra air, by pulling the oil filler cap or dipstick you're affecting vacuum, not introducing air into the combustion chamber. From what I 'know' about fuel injection, to introduce more air to the mixture you would want to create an air leak by cracking the air 'hose' AFTER the airflow is metered by the ECU.

Can't help you with any recommendations (definitely not my area of expertise) but I agree, that blue does look good.

Just in case you want to keep rears stock, RockAuto shows a composite aluminum/Steel drum for 1974 260Z available again. Believe these are aluminum body with steel contact lining. CENTRIC Part # 12242002. <$30 +shipping.

Say hello to my little friend! "Borrowed" from my father's tool box about 25 years ago. Guaranteed to work on ANY stuck nut, fitting, caliper bolt. Might chew it up a little, (pre-treating with PBblaster helps tremendously) but definitely worth a try.

Dang, Steven. You need to buy back one of your Z's. The withdrawal is making you cranky!!

Ahhhhhh, the joy! Took a day and a half to get the smile down to a self satisfied smirk. Congrats.

From what I've read, the mid 80's carbed RX-7 fuel pump is the best choice. Not sure of the exact years. Reliable, very quiet and the correct unregulated pressure output.

Thinking about that also, Zforce. Same symptoms on another of my cars and that's what it was. Only thing is he said he had spark after it died. (Maybe looked good but weak) Cothran, what were the temps outside when it died? Might want to try and take a can of compressed air (I think that will do it) and spray the ignition module the next time it dies. The air will cool the module down quickly. Then try to restart. If it kicks right over and runs fine, that may be your problem.

Don't know if this will apply but used this method to tell if the thermostat was bad, stuck fully or partially closed. Idle the car with radiator cap open. Warm it up and watch the coolant level. The level will begin to "bob" up and down (1" or more) and eventually overflow the opening. Best practice is to remove and put it on the stove in a pot of heated water with thermometer and measure the temp when/if/how far it opens.

Only thing is I've 'heard' that when you rebuild just the top end, it has a tendency since it's much tighter, to blow out the bottom end. Don't know if it 's true, but.......................

Regardless of where the plug is, you're still crazy! Sorry, couldn't resist.

They wish they were Jersey men! V8.......Ugh! But welcome none the less. You should find a ton of info on the Z here, and maybe you can be 'converted' and see the light to go back to the original L-series. Either way, welcome!

Right hand (passenger) side of the trans.

Same as Arne, Gary and Kim. When you connect to the firewall, try to sand down to bare metal and throw a little dielectric grease under the ring terminal when you bolt it on. Improves the connection and helps prevent future corrosion. Bad electrical ground can really drive you crazy trying to track down.

OEM rear drum is no longer available, I believe. Back to RockAuto. $29 for aluminum/steel composite drums, $18 for cast.

Excellent, John! This is when it pays off, all the hard work and time you put into it. You get to the point where it's frustrating because you can't see the end, just the light at the end of the tunnel. But then you get in the seat and take a spin and all of a sudden the time and frustration just disappears. Keep going!

From one 'East-Coaster' to another......................WOW! Wish mine was as far along in the work to get it rust free. Congrats and maybe we'll run into (not literally) each other one day.

On the right rear cylinder and hardware kit, RockAuto has them for $63/$7 (aftermarket rebuilds), MotorSport Auto for $83/$20 (Last time I bought OEM).

I was missing one and just wound up buying a new strap (comes with covers). About $25 if I recall, brand new OEM strap and no more time spent trying to locate the trim pieces.