mlc240z

Pretty cool. That makes sense. Thanks, Arne.

Not familiar with 'fusion' cable ends. I'm assuming you heat and solder the cable inside. What's the process?

Got them from Rock and installed Saturday. Centric brand and they are cast iron. A little heavier than stock aluminums, but not too bad. Comes sprayed matte black. Quality seems good and so far no problems. Don't notice any defects or out of round.

If you're buying a whole new clutch kit, there were a few I've seen that include a plastic tool in the package.

Dave, PM sent.

Here are some pics: Just confirm this is what you need and I'll TRY to ship tomorrow (830pm here), Sat latest. Unfortunately, you'll need at least one bleeder screw, sorry.

Hold on...... wait a minute.......you mean I get to help out Dave (maybe) instead of the other way around???? Let me check the originals from my 5/71. They worked when I pulled them, but I would advise a rebuild. You'll have to clean them up but should be usable. Just to confirm, hard-line comes off at an angle, bleeder on the opposite angle? Let me know, I can take some pics if you need. p.s. You're married, we all know everyone begs at some time!!

Might want to check here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=37452 What ohm coil? Did you bypass the ballast resistor?

Can't say enough good about Roger. I sent him a little 'extra' (hint,hint) when I bought my brake line to thank him for going 'above and beyond". Such a great experience between quality and service, he's now the first one I'll go to for used parts. We've got to help him so he'll help us keep our Z's on the road.

Try spraying a little PBlaster, Kroil, Liquid Wrench or similar on the connection. Let it soak a while. Then maybe a hammer and chisel or other tapered tool to force the connection apart.

Gravity bleed is just that, no pushing pedal, just open the bleeder at the driver's rear (longest run from what I've learned) and let the fluid leak out. Make sure you keep an eye on the master's fluid level and keep it topped off. When you get a flow of fluid thru the bleeder for a while, shut it off. Move to the passenger's rear and repeat the process. This should fill the lines with fluid and resolve the problem. Had to do this when I replaced the driver's rear hard line. At that point, bleed the brakes normally with pedal movement. Driver's rear first and then pass rear.

I tip my hat to you for keeping it in the family.

So the "soft whine" I hear as I go thru the gears is normal for a Type A? Not harsh or too loud. If normal and not indicating any trouble brewing, I actually kinda like it. It's makes driving my Z very distinctive and unique.

If you're replacing the originals, the poly will be of course night and day. But than again, new rubber will be night and day. I know some have complained about the harsher ride with poly. Since I never really drove mine with the original rubber, please understand my opinion is not completely informed. However the ride with the new poly does not seem too harsh for me. It seems very controlled but it does transmit a lot of feedback from the road and the suspension. I happen to prefer that kind of thing. I could understand the preference for the rubber in the steering column coupler, since I do notice a bit of vibration from the front end.

Yup, can understand the shift pattern. There are a lot of stupid drivers out there (Drive the car, don't just steer while doing something else.......texting, talking on the phone, makeup, etc))! Googled the DOT reference and it appears they were worried about the glare. European spec apparently conformed to US eventually.

OK, I really don't understand that logic. Were they worried about glare to an oncoming car?

OK, had to do it. Just ordered 2 from RockAuto. With 5% discount (Thanks Johnny'O) and 3Day UPS ship came to $66. I'll let you know how they are installed.

Try a locksmith shop first for the key. A good one should be able to reproduce the key from the lock you have. If you need the harness, definitely use Roger at ZBarn. Definitely need to be patient since he's a one-man band. Just be aware tho, he has a tendency to UNDERSTATE the condition of the parts he supplies. Part he said was 'good' looked near new to me. Heard a lot of good things about the POR tank treatment, but have been looking at http://www.gas-tank.com/ lately and have read some good reviews.

Arne, Aren't the brake shoe contact surfaces all steel/steel-lined? Do you see any drawbacks or problems with cast iron/steel vs aluminum/steel drums? pwd, Yup, I've learned that the hard way. Had luck with some right out of the box, no luck with others.

As title says, MSA wants $98 each, Black Dragon $90 each for rear drums for a '71. RockAuto wants $28 each for, admittedly, aftermarket rear drums. Can't verify if MSA/BD are aftermarket also. Anyone get these and if so, did they fit and perform acceptably? I'm tempted to spend/waste the $60 (Saving $120-$140) to see if they're worth it.

Yup, my son just got a taste of it this past weekend. I let him have the first non-owner (me) drive and when he shut the car off and pulled the key, he got the "buzzer of death" when he opened the door. Since it was part of the shakedown cruise, he said "What's up with this" Only after I pointed out that the key was in the 'Off" position instead of 'Lock' did he realize one of the quirks of owning a 39 year-old beauty. Might have to look into this.

I had a joke just dying to come out, but I'm not even going to use it, it's too over the top. Funny, but will be taken the wrong way unless you know me and my sick sense of humor. Some more info on the wheels here. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24972 Some pics still in my gallery.

This might help. found some useful info. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/AandBtranny.htm

Whoosh, whoosh

Might just need an adjustment. 18000 isn't a lot of miles on the clutch, depending of course on the way it was driven.