mlc240z

Since you're replacing the races, beating on them is often the easiest/fastest way to remove. You don't really care if you bugger it up. A little PBlaster or Liquid Wrench helps. Get the new race started with whatever you have (small block of wood or metal bar) and drive it in flush. Just tap evenly around the race in small increments, don't try to strong arm it in with one shot. After it's flush, use the old race (inverted) to drive it partially down. No reason to worry about sizing a spacer since it's exactly the same diameter. After it's slightly below the surface pop the old race out and flip it so it is in the same orientation as the new race. Use the old race in that position to fully seat the new race. As you'll see (no pics handy so you have picture it in your mind), by having it in the same orientation as the new, you'll have a little 'land' (the fatter bottom of the old race against the thinner top of the new) to drive it back out when the new race is seated. I've always used the old race to drive the new race in and never had a problem. It's quicker and also handy since you have the parts available on dis-assembly. No need to rent or buy any special tools, just need a little patience and ultimately to be a 'cheap' SOBROFL who doesn't want to spend the extra money.

Also check the dizzy cap and wires. On a different car, but hairline crack in cap would allow water to wick inside, pull cap, check for moisture inside. Also wet faulty wires would ground out to car and not deliver full spark to plugs. Easiest check was to wait for night and pop hood when car was running (wait for dryer conditions). Look for spark arcing to engine or other ground points. If you're not seeing anything when it's dry, spray with water bottle to duplicate the wet conditions.

Agreed. And besides, wouldn't you want that extra layer of protection laid down "underneath" all that weatherstripping? Seeing as you've got this much work into it and hopefully will never see those flanges again. Couldn't hurt to have that additional coat.

That's where I would go first. Roger usually has everything you need.

Don't see how it could hurt. When I did my rear suspension refresh recently, between the anti-seize that oozed out of the bolts/nuts/spindle pins and the synthetic grease, I figured the bushings should be wellllllll lubricated. I'll find out when I finally get this b*tch on the road this spring!

Try Ace hardware, I got a replacement there.

You are a very intelligent man! I've done it and it's really not that expensive. Especially when you balance it against your life!

Oh, geez.... that was embarassingly easy. Thanks all, they popped right out and back in. Everything should be that simple.

Haven't found any info on how to replace these. Can these be replaced without removing the dash? From the front or back of the dash? Picked up a nice pair with good chrome to replace my green oxidized originals. Couldn't find any specific info in Wick Humble's book on removing/installing or refurbing, and a search here provided references to them without any details. Anybody have any experience replacing, details and/or pics please?

First, we're talking about the ZCAR Microfiche, right? I'm running Adobe Reader ver 8.2.1 and it reads fine. I've copied the CD contents to my laptop, maybe that's the difference.

Maybe try emailing Roger over at ZBarn http://www.zbarn.com/ He got me an odd part, wasn't listed on his site.

Rock Auto has a Beck/Arnley for $21.89 Under Nissan >1976>280Z>Electrical-Switch and Relay>Ignition Starter Switch >BECK/ARNLEY Part # 2011174 Stay away from the KEMParts one for $10.82. Always had problems with KEMParts electrical parts, garbage.

i looked into this place after reading about them on some site (could have been here, sorry can't remember): http://www.gas-tank.com/ seem to be reasonably priced for the work they do and from the reports I read, do excellent work.

it seemed to work as advertised. bought it 30-odd years ago and used it twice. not to "expand" the exhaust pipe to a larger size, but once to un-crimp a clamped pipe (the crease from the clamp) and once to straighten an out of round pipe. it works for those purposes. if you're looking to expand to the next size (to flare one pipe Inside Diameter to fit over the other pipe Outside Diameter), it might work. never needed to use it for that, was wary it would tear the pipe metal.

Geez, I just saw this thread. And yea, I just wet 'em. That setup looks GREAT!! Very pretty. If they run like they look, you'll fly.

blow dryer might get a dent out of the vinyl, time will prob get the dent out of the foam.

Had that same "wandering" timing on, if you can believe it, a 1973 Ford Pinto. Turned out to be a worn distributor. Replaced it with rebuilt and problem went away.

That's just wrong! Do like the style of car, tho.

Where's George Carlin when you need him? (yea, I know, taking a dirt nap) He had a routine where he ran thru the whole gamut of PC crap and really tore it up.

Where's George Carlin when you need him? He had a routine where he ran thru the whole gamut of PC crap and really tore it up.

i could see MAYBE buying it as a parts car??? but i would pass on it and find a better specimen to restore. cheap initial price on this one will result in beaucoup bucks to just fix the body, let alone what it will cost you to refurb the interior.

This might be what you're looking for Rick. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28989&highlight=honda+wiper

don't read blogs, but this was so much fun to read. makes me want to get on the road and never come back. great story, loved reading about your adventure

not to be the devil on your other shoulder, but if this shop does good work you trust.................what about contacting a competitor (good idea anyway for comparison) and offer them the same deal. if shop #2 will do it, go back to shop #1 and let them know. might make them realize the value of YOUR service in trade. would they want their competitor to receive the free advertising??

possibly might help, this is what i found worked on mine http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34954